New FJ40 Owner....Need Advice

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Aug 10, 2009
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I'm going to pick up a 1974 FJ40 this weekend. Im not new to the offroad scene but I've always been a Jeep guy and I know nothing about a Toyota. The FJ has a few things done to it already:
2F
4 Spd
Power steering
Disc brakes
35” MTR’s
Full cage
New paint
Detroits in front and rear
Hand throttle
Full spare
Warn hubs
Weber carb

I've got $2,500 - $3,000 I can spend on it now. It will be used for occasional trail riding and highway driving on the weekend. Very light rock crawling. What would be the best bang for the buck items that I need to do to this rig?

Here are a couple pics:
fj40forsale008.jpg

fj40forsale009.jpg

fj40forsale010.jpg

fj40forsale006.jpg
 
Nice looking 40! I see it has been to GSMTR before, and I hope it has some thick caster shims in the front to go along with those long shackles. If I were spending your money I would go with a Orion or Toybox, it really makes a difference in the rocks.
 
First I would go through and baseline all the fluids and check the brakes and make sure all is well before doing any mods.

In the FAQ there are threads about the best and worst mods for 40s. Near the top of my list since you've already got a well-built truck (can't see the pics because of firewall, but from description) would be a headlight/harness upgrade. And then maybe upgrade the gauges. Storage (like Tuffy or dash box, or drawers in the back), front and rear bumpers, and winch would be up there too.
 
Need advice? Walk away.

I doubt that is a 1974 model, too many incorrect pieces on it. If it is, it's been retrofitted with older parts. Even if it's a '74, the 2F is a transplant. Nothing wrong with that, but the odometer is disconnected so who knows? If they did such a crappy job on the paint, they weren't too worried about what it's covering up.

That's a $ 800 truck with a $100 paint job. Freeway driving? Out of the question!

I wouldn't put my kids in it, and I doubt you'll find an insurance carrier that would write a policy on it. My $0.02 :)
 
I would look into getting a handle on the rust, looks like a super quick paint job, painted right over the emblems. Could be hiding lots of problems that could become real visible in a few months, always be weary of a fresh paint job on a vehicle for sale. Not saying avoid them, but be cautious of what they covered up.
 
Quote:
it's been retrofitted with older parts ?


pls.elaborate....on those parts.....
 
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The bib & apron emblems were discontinued 1973. Early clutch master cylinder, early license plate bracket. Rear crossmember looks early type, though the tail lights aren't Toyota at all, early or late. Everything else looks 1974 except the motor. Doesn't have the oddball 1973 back up light. Possibly titled when sold in late '73 or 1974 as a leftover. May have been a hybrid on the assembly line of leftover '73 parts going on a '74 production truck. Who knows? Not really an issue, mine's certainly not all original, that is if the vehicle was in better shape to be marketed.

My reason to walk away is the huge disparity between the price and the obvious condition, which makes me question other things, like year model. For that price there should be a box of Krugerrands in the glove box.:eek:

Not trying to insult the seller, you can put lipstick on a pig, but it's still a pig.
 
painted over the emblems: sacrilege
 
Looks decent to me. The chunks are worth 800 dollars.

4500 sure looks like a decent deal to me. But that is just by pictures. WHo knows what the condition of the motor and drivetrain is.

Without driving it. I'd say fix everything that isn't working. Then focus on getting the cosmetics looking right.
 
#%^@#$

GAS:flipoff2:
Drive it its a Toyota:grinpimp:

Just look VERY closly at details look for rust give it a good looking before taking it:meh:
 
it could be a descent truck ,but the way they painted the emblems and dents makes me wonder.once you pay for it its yours so check it out carefully .i wouldnt worry about upgrades now save the money until you have driven it and get it in good mechanical shape first.if somthing doesnt work you can upgrade as you repair those parts .i think there is something hiding there but thats just me .good luck
 
would be a headlight/harness upgrade. And then maybe upgrade the gauges. .
What harness upgrade are you refering to? Is it something that painless or another company makes or is it something to make yourself? What gauge upgrades do you recomend?

I'm also wanting to put a new set of seats and retrofit a bench in the back for the kids. Any recomendations of a set of affordable seats and does anyone have any in there FJ that they can post a pic?
 
That's a $1500. truck.

It's a complete mix of parts and that paint job shows that someone doesn't care and wants to get rid of it quick. There are many better trucks out there, especially if you have $2500. or more extra to spend on mods. 7K ( truck and mods$) can get you a really nice truck.
 
If they wanted to get rid of it quickly they would have been better off to not paint it so you can see what the body is. You can see the front of the hood might be solid bondo. How could they not even take the time to either remove the emblems or atleast tape them off. In 3 months you could have a serious rust problem under the paint, if they did not take the time to not paint the emblems, there is no way they took the time to properly fixed the rust and prep the sheet metal under that paint. Plan on 100% stripping all that paint off and starting again on the body.
 
What harness upgrade are you refering to? Is it something that painless or another company makes or is it something to make yourself? What gauge upgrades do you recomend?

I'm also wanting to put a new set of seats and retrofit a bench in the back for the kids. Any recomendations of a set of affordable seats and does anyone have any in there FJ that they can post a pic?

IPF has a nice harness sold through ARB. Couple that with some Roundeyes headlights or Hella H4s and you have great night lights!

There are many threads on seat options - check them out and there are pictures as well in those threads. Some rear fold-and-tumble options too, from Monteros or Samurais and such. Search will be your friend.
 
Didn'teven notice the painted over emblems... they had good camoflage. I'd say find out why the PO's in such a hurry to unload it.
If you get a chance, look over every inch of it, especially under the hood, and feel just how much bondo you're dealing with here, as well. (Bondo will insulate sound a bit, so you can knock on suspect areas, and see if they sound different from metal areas, you have bondo.) If it isn't as great as the seller says, there are other 40's out there, don't get married to the first one you see. Also look at the high-rust areas: Rear sill and crossmember area, under front doors, and forward corners of the rear fender areas. if they have cargo mats on the floor lift them up and see what condition it is underneath. The seller's putting ths rig under a spotlight, and you, a potential buyer, have every right to look it over with scrutiny.
 

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