New F & 2F carbs (2 Viewers)

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I had a similar issue with my carb. I think many of them have debris in them from manufacturing. Once you clean it and blow all the channels out it should be fine. No issues with mine after that. I only run ethanol free fuel as mine sits a lot.
 
I pulled the air horn off and cleaned everything. Also adjusted the float per FSM.

Seems to be running better.

@WaTrout88 I assume you had to cut the hard line then, where did you place the filter?
Yes unfortunately I had to cut the hard line right after the bend before it hits the carb.
 
I was having some serious issues maintaining speed while climbing hills with my Trollhole Carb. The mechanic said that because of my headers and aftermarket cam it was starving of fuel so when he re-built the OEM carb he also re-jetted it, seems to be running 95% better climbing hills now.
 
I had issues climbing hills or really time under load, but that was due to a massive vacuum leak at the intake. I shimmed it out (header flange is larger than intake) and problem solved.

The carb seems to be working as it should now that I’ve cleaned it. I will get it up to temp and park in the sun today to try and replicate my problem from Saturday.

My motor seems to be down on low end power, but once it picks up rpm it really gets peppy. I am thinking the headers might be affecting the low end power not the carburetor.

My only comment left about the trollhole carb is I don’t feel like my mixture screw does anything. I have tried to lean drop it a few times now and the mix screw makes no difference in how it runs.
 
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@Advrider639 I have the same issue with my trollhole carb, I feel like the mixture screw does nothing. I'm wondering if there is some sort of debris stuck in the carb.
 
@Borrego

So I spoke with @Trollhole this afternoon, he said that if I am pulling around 15-16 on the vacuum I still have a vacuum leak and that could cause the mixture screw to not have any effect. I might be misspoken, so don't take that to the bank. I pulled the needle out to check the condition and it is still as it should be, no damage.

I drove the truck around this afternoon, got it up to 30-40 MPH up hills (to get the secondary to fire) and then parked it in the sun for around the same time as Saturday. Walked back out after 20 minutes and the truck fired up and idled as it should.... BUT it did have a little hesitation and gurgle for the first few seconds.

This is all new to me, I have never driven a properly set up 2f so I really do not have a proper comparison point. I can only tell when my truck is running better or worse than before. I do wish it would fire up at the first turn of the key... to much to ask?
 
I added alittle advance... resting around 10-12deg. Was able to get my vacuum readings around 18. With this I was then able to tighten the mixture screw in until it got tight, then backed it out 2.5 turns. This did make the rpm’s increase, which I leveled out with the idle screw.

I do not have a tac so I am mainly just going by ear.... but I would say my engine is running better than it was two days ago.

I’ll check the hot start again tomorrow.
 
@Borrego

So I spoke with @Trollhole this afternoon, he said that if I am pulling around 15-16 on the vacuum I still have a vacuum leak and that could cause the mixture screw to not have any effect. I might be misspoken, so don't take that to the bank. I pulled the needle out to check the condition and it is still as it should be, no damage.
I think mine may be a vacuum leak as well. I was checking around the base of the carb and it looks stained in one spot. I'll have to check with my vacuum gauge. Thanks for the tip!
 
I will be replacing my manifold gasket with a remflex as soon as it’s delivered. I still have a slight exhaust leak with my current set up.

I took the truck out again today, 20 min drive, stop go, speeds up to 45mph. Parked it in open sun light and 20 minutes later, foot to the floor on the accelerator, it started right up. Little bit of smoke for a around 10 seconds but quickly went away and it drove fine.

Between cleaning out the carb, advancing the timing slightly, and adjusting the mixture/idle I seem to have a much better running truck.

Good luck to everyone else!



Edit:
Well... I am flooded again... I left it out in the driveway (level) this afternoon and when I tried to pull it into garage, nothing. Cranks and cranks and cranks. Flooded again.

Could a improperly vented gas tank cause issues?
 
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Help. I have had this nice trolhole carb on an 85 fj for years and all the sudden not gas in the site glass. I turn the key and idle shut off clicks. Is there a way to get gas into the carb. I replaced the fuel pump and filter. so gas is getting there. thanks It will run sometimes then just stalls and then i have push it back home.


rich
 
Help. I have had this nice trolhole carb on an 85 fj for years and all the sudden not gas in the site glass. I turn the key and idle shut off clicks. Is there a way to get gas into the carb. I replaced the fuel pump and filter. so gas is getting there. thanks It will run sometimes then just stalls and then i have push it back home.


rich
Thats why you should install a tow bar. These old vehicles always seem to stop at not good times. So i put a tow bar on mine. And at interstate speeds these old girls dont like that 70 mph so I flat tow to get where I want to play.
 
Help. I have had this nice trolhole carb on an 85 fj for years and all the sudden not gas in the site glass. I turn the key and idle shut off clicks. Is there a way to get gas into the carb. I replaced the fuel pump and filter. so gas is getting there. thanks It will run sometimes then just stalls and then i have push it back home.


rich
Check to see if fuel is pumping with it disconnected from the carb, run it into can or bowl. If very little is getting into the can then it may be a clogged filter or sediment in the tank. If there is good flow then something may be in the carb or needles. Bowl float could be stuck too and not letting fuel in. I would pull the carb and lightly run some compressed air through. make sure it is come out, same with carb cleaner.
 
Check to see if fuel is pumping with it disconnected from the carb, run it into can or bowl. If very little is getting into the can then it may be a clogged filter or sediment in the tank. If there is good flow then something may be in the carb or needles. Bowl float could be stuck too and not letting fuel in. I would pull the carb and lightly run some compressed air through. make sure it is come out, same with carb cleaner.

Also be sure to check your oil to make sure all that gasoline is not running from the carb into your engine. Mine had been flooding for awhile and when I checked my oil it had a bunch of gas in it.
 
Hi guys, I’ve never had much luck getting troubleshooting advice from @Trollhole, so I’m wondering if any of you guys have had this problem with a carb you bought from him. Fuel leaks over exhaust manifolds are never a good thing-

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Just curious; Why are you running a Ford Motorcaft filter?
IIRC it’s the Ford equivalent to the LANDCRUISER filter, and I read somewhere long ago that the Motorcraft filters are better quality than standard fram, Bosch, etc.
 
Hi everyone,
I'm at the tail end of a huge desmog project (huge for me) and would love some advice on what gets capped before I fire my 84 FJ60 up.
I've had the manifolds resurfaced and have everything installed including the Trollhole carb. I've been through 96 pages of great info but still have questions as Marshall states to make it simple and pull all hoses except retain the vac line for the dizzy and AC idle up which I have swapped over from the old stock carb.

Sorry for the questions here but I'm so anxious to get this rolling again and it seems their are so many different desmog instructions outthere and Marshall's carb seems to be the simplest but that means a lot of hoses are left open. See photos for help. Thank you!!!!

1. I installed ac idle linkage on the Trollhole. Where is the vac line go from AC Idle up?
These in orange were answered today via text with Marshall. Ac idle up goes straight to small black vsv on drivers side fender then to the vacuum port on the intake manifold. Connects to the smaller port beside the larger port with cooling fins.
2. Installed new Toyota cap and rotor. Plug the two open ports on top of cap?
Larger port goes to port under washer bottle. Other port goes to air cleaner with a one way valve so air can only come from the distributor to the air cleaner.

3. Air filter - literally plug every single hole on stock air filter assembly?
He said plugging them is fine. But he normally drills out the one in the middle of the air cleaner and run a hose from the charcoal canister to it.
I'm not super clear about this and will try to find out more and try it myself.

4. Intake Manifold (large) Brake booster ports (see photo #2) on right and the small triple port (#1) black valve on left side of intake manifold- cap off?
YES, cap off all.

5. Photos of hoses to close/cap or hook back up (see photo #3, #4, #6, #7) and T connector #5
Still need help with these...

6. Carb insulator port - cap off?
YES, cap off

7. Charcoal canister - leave as is?
Still need help routing a hose to air filter...

8. BVSV - The original desmog guide said to cap lower BVSV and keep the upper. I'm thinking I need to cap both?
Still need help with these...
Again Thanks for all the help.


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@Todd Moen You might want to post this message in the 40 tech forum too. It probably gets more traffic than this one. Good luck!
Thank you! I can do that. Just didn't want to spam a bunch of threads over the forums. It's actually or at least for me this is for my 60 but I get it as it could go to the 40 tech forum as well. Would you recommend posting on the 60 tech or 40 tech forum? Thanks!
 

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