New exhaust, end to end (1 Viewer)

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staggrlee

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Back with a sound clip and performance results. This is cool.
 
Can we see more pics on the X-over? Had to be tight on spacing. Nice work.
 
Yes it was a bit of a shoehorn job to get it in there I'm told. I'll try to get some more shots before skid plates go on.

I haven't heard it yet since the truck was missing the transmission valve body/fluid when I last visited it, but it will be loud I'm afraid. The Burns mufflers are serviceable and I may be able to add more scrubble packing to them. That would have limited impact though I think and some sort of resonator downstream of the mufflers may be required.

Dyno testing/results will be a bit incomplete since I didn't do a baseline first, but are necessary for tuning the fuel trim with the Unichip so at least I'll have the "after".
 
OOOO very nice. Forgot yours was charged too. Quite jelly! My exhaust is in need of replacement too now that I have refreshed my DT headers as of last fall
 
OOOO very nice. Forgot yours was charged too. Quite jelly! My exhaust is in need of replacement too now that I have refreshed my DT headers as of last fall

You didn't forget, Loud, the SC is "new" and part if its mid-life 130k mile refresh.

It's also getting a new suspension, with the exception of the existing OME torsion bars, including: ICON Stage III, SPC UCAs, TrailTailor rear upper/lower CAs, Big Dog panhard rod. Also getting ARB lockers, Martin Crawler low range reduction gears, Wholesale Automatic's HD valve body & torque converter lockout solenoid, 270A DC Power alternator, a Front Runner sub tank and "ARB" drawers. And new heater tees

We're getting some sort of an R-pod type of trailer and wanted to improve towing/offroad characteristics while still retaining the RTT option. So it was time for either a new truck or to do the wish list rebuild and sign up for another 9 years in my 2000.
 
staggrlee, love the mods! Where did you get you cats from, marlin crawler and sub tank? Can't wait for more updates!
Cat's came from FabSpeed, Marlin gears were ordered direct and the sub tank is from a member on here who sold it to me used. I've got a line on a lower profile (less capactiy) Long Range Automotive tank. the Front Runner hangs pretty low.

Land Cruiser Crawler Gears | Marlin Crawler, Inc.


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big exhaust and DT headers make a big difference. ;<)

1loudlx - where you been?
 
Are you happy with your headers? And were they hard to put in?
I've been happy with them with a caveat. Never had a problem with them until the exhaust went on and the shop noticed they were both leaking in the collector tube and one of the flanges was cracked. I frankly hadn't noticed. Contacted DT and they were totally great about making me whole again.

Note that this was a problem with like the 1st production run of 100 Series headers and they thought they'd taken care of everyone that ordered those. They couldn't track me down due to old contact info, but when they looked up the invoice, they credited me 100% of the original price towards new and improved headers.

Can't speak to ease of install because neither set was installed by me. From reading on here though, seems to be if you live in a rust state it can be more difficult, but people have just PB-Blasted the hell out of them and muddled through some broken studs. Some good DIY threads on here. Look back as far as 2010 when a bunch of people here purchased through a GB. The FSM is bonkers on time though (10 hrs, book?) and people figured out some great shortcuts like unbolting engine mounts and jacking things up to get around the steering column on the DS instead of disconnecting it.
 
I should note that I originally did the headers due to cracked OE ones and had the tickin' pox. Wasn't done for performance and I think for any NA truck, the gains are nominal per butt dyno and not a cost justification on that merit alone. These are big, heavy trucks and a little more oomph across the band is difficult to justify when running something less than 90lb tires would easily be a bigger improvement.
 
I would suggest not doing the ARB locker in the rear and going with the TJM. The design on the ARB is not as robust as the TJM and you could get the notorious diff fluid puking out your air compressor in the engine bay like I did. I talked to Carl at Just Differentials/Nitro Gear at SEMA this past year and he had the same problem in his. He is the one that suggested the TJM. I swapped out and haven't had a problem since.

It's not all ARB; it is just an issue with the 100 series rear. I still run ARB up front.
 
Gains for dt headers only are about 20 hp. There is a thread that dyno'd stock, versus dt headers only, versus dt headers and ems exhaust. Same truck, same dyno.

DT Headers Dyno Result Thread

I have dt headers and 3 inch ems exhaust. Really helps bring the driving experience back to stockish with extra weight from armor. Also, the motor seems to rev more freely.
 
Unfortunately already purchased and installed. Would a check valve on the air line prevent the backflow I wonder?

Doubtful as the ARB already has that in their mechanism. A lot of heat and pressure build up in the did and can force the fluid up. You may not have the issue but I did. Now - mine could have been due to the fact that it was chipped on install and the fluid compromised the integrity of the valve.

But...it's a cylinder that slides over with pressure and not a valve in the TJM.

Keep an eye on it. I would strongly suggest diff breathers if you haven't already. ARB diff breathers are a two way system that allow pressure to stabalize in the diff better. Overall I love ARB's stuff.

Nice exhaust setup by the way!!
 
I extended the diff breathers up under the hood and into the jack storage area. Still have the OE valves on the end. I'll put in the ARB breathers as a precaution. Thanks for the advice.
 

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