Checked wiring means he checked the battery cables? Just wondering.
New battery... won’t start. key reset? engine immobilization?
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- #142
The battery cables were in good condition. I would assume he checked them and my friend who helped install the battery cleaned them and said they were in great condition.
RET2
SILVER Star
My comments were ones of caution due to price and lack of info on any diagnostics that were done. It is what it is but with diagnostic backup undertaking such a repair makes more sense. The LC platform is overladen with electronics and complicated as you have found out and not every mechanic has the equipment to test properly.
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- #144
Got it. Thanks. I’m glad this forum had my back.
They may look good. It's not the ends it's the middle I believe. Someone else can verify.
He should be able to just swap out the original PCM with the new one, and if it doesn't immediately fix the problem.. then put the old one back in and return the new one and not charge you for it. Some mechanics do this to eliminate that being the problem.
Then you know it's not the PCM. (computer = program control module) if that does not fix the problem.
He can try bypassing the starter celluloid (which was mentioned a few pages back). Maybe the starter celluloid is bad.
and the headlights should dim (also mentioned earlier) and the mechanic can test of the starter is getting power to start.
With the diagnostics the mechanic did I have additional confidence in the proposed fix. Failed computers without a cause are rare, so it’s still a bit of a crapshoot and electronics usually can’t be returned once installed. A post above by @bloc mentioned checking to see if the windshield has been replaced. Poor install jobs are notorious for leaking and causing electronic damage. I’m still thinking there could be a connection between the failed battery and the no start with the new one. A possible sequence (just wild conjecture) is leaking windshield—failed electronics and computer—battery drain and fail—new battery—no start. Of course I’m assuming the mechanic did all the usual starter and cabling and circuit and battery tests; the easy stuff first.
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- #148
ok so it looks like I’m good to give the mechanic the OK to order the part tomorrow
Markuson
SILVER Star
I didn’t think folks were saying he was “bad.” Just that when there are early jumps to expensive, complicated, unusual items like this...it merits further review before assuming it’s necessary. Most mechanics in the US simply don’t have opportunities to become familiar with this.
Advice here was similar to suggestions of a second opinion before agreeing to open heart surgery or major procedures.
You’re doing further review, and that’s exactly what folks were suggesting. Not a bad/good thing. Just due diligence.
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Any updates?
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- #151
The tech had to replace the main computer AND the shifter control module. The theory is something spilled into the shift control that shorted out the main PCM.
She is up and running $2k later.
Honestly, with the electrical and computer problems I’ve had over 65k miles (there was also an issue with the main radio unit) I would NOT say a Land cruiser is as reliable as it’s reputation.
I know mechanically it’s solid but the Toyota computer parts, meh. And the non-replaceable infotainment (A/C controls in head unit is the worst. It should just be a din!) Do you know what those antiquated radios cost!
I would rather have something with modern tech - even a QX80 that now has CarPlay-since I don’t believe I’m getting any extra reliability compared to anything with this Toyota. Ugh!
Ok rant over. I’m gonna go and enjoy my Truck. Thanks all for your help!
She is up and running $2k later.
Honestly, with the electrical and computer problems I’ve had over 65k miles (there was also an issue with the main radio unit) I would NOT say a Land cruiser is as reliable as it’s reputation.
I know mechanically it’s solid but the Toyota computer parts, meh. And the non-replaceable infotainment (A/C controls in head unit is the worst. It should just be a din!) Do you know what those antiquated radios cost!
I would rather have something with modern tech - even a QX80 that now has CarPlay-since I don’t believe I’m getting any extra reliability compared to anything with this Toyota. Ugh!
Ok rant over. I’m gonna go and enjoy my Truck. Thanks all for your help!
RET2
SILVER Star
Sorry for the eventual outcome $ wise but the spill didn't help at all. Thanks for the after action report as painful as it was. Your tech was spot on and hopefully you can count on his counsel if needed. I concur on the radio's shortfalls.
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- #153
I figured if the special forces used the vehicle my wife and kid couldn’t break it.
But I was wrong.
But I was wrong.
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- #154
yeah it’s a total bummer and total fail that you can’t throw a CarPlay din into one of these trucks and drive it forever. I think the sound system - speakers and amps - are actually really good sounding a surprise when I got the vehicle.
bloc
SILVER Star
I fail to see how a module with something spilled into it is a reliability problem.
The cup holders suck. When I first got my truck it had something spilled on the console to the point where the switches wouldn't move and the shift was very hard to move to change gears. I sprayed a few squirts of CDC electric spray down the shift linkage to get to work better. I want to pull all that apart at some point to clean it out.
But I don't think a hot coffee or two would penetrate a computer box when these trucks are built to go through h2o.
But I don't think a hot coffee or two would penetrate a computer box when these trucks are built to go through h2o.
Markuson
SILVER Star
OK, but just remember that the *interior* is definitely NOT built to go through h2O...!
Gotta keep that outside the vehicle...!
Thanks to this old thread, I was able to start my cruiser after camping last night on a deserted Forest Service road in the UP of Michigan.
Took like 2 minutes to load each page due to a crappy cell signal (lol), but it was worth it.
Now, I wish I was tech-savvy/smart enough to tell you which piece of advice did the trick. I just did everything multiple times (shifting in and out of park, locking everything, unlocking everything, disconnecting and re-connecting my jump pack and the battery, etc.).
SOMEthing eventually worked, so kudos to all of the advice givers.
Took like 2 minutes to load each page due to a crappy cell signal (lol), but it was worth it.
Now, I wish I was tech-savvy/smart enough to tell you which piece of advice did the trick. I just did everything multiple times (shifting in and out of park, locking everything, unlocking everything, disconnecting and re-connecting my jump pack and the battery, etc.).
SOMEthing eventually worked, so kudos to all of the advice givers.
