Hey guys. I am a former jeep owner and am new at this. Please bear with me. I just bought a used 97 land cruiser with 130,000 miles. I was totally excited to have purchased a great looking ride with lockers front and rear. That was until I tried the lockers. When I shift to four low the vehicle goes into low range but the locker light does not come on. When I turn the locker switch to the right the front and rear locker lights start flashing but never stay on solid. I tried the 9 volt battery on front and rear lockers and they seem to be engaging. My question is when I shift into 4 low shouldnt a locker light come on in the dash? The second question is if the locker light is not coming on when Ishift to 4 low would that keep the front and rear locker from locking? As I said I am new to land cruisers and don't fully understand how the lockers work.Thanks for any help!
New at this!
- Thread starter Georgia Cruiser
- Start date
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Yep you have the basics. The center diff needs to be locked (shifting into 4L or using the CDL switch mod). The center diff light should come on assuming its not burnt out. You can test the center diff (and F and R) on gravel/dirt/etc and make figure eights. All has to line up in order to engage. There is tons of info here on Cetner/Front/Rear lockers. There is harness's, relays, switches, actuators that can all be tested. Im assuming you have a 93+yr, post up what yr you have. Lots of great info on these systems if you search a litttle.
Official 'mud welcome
Official 'mud welcome
The Center Diff Light should come on when shifted into 4Lo. Unless your truck has a CDL switch and the pin 7 mod already done then you have to engage the switch to put the CDL on. However, you have to have the CDL on to lock both front and rear, and with the lights flashing it should be on.
Usually you might have to drive a little bit or turn the wheels to get them to lock if they haven't been used in awhile.
Edit: Yeah what he said! Got in before me...
Usually you might have to drive a little bit or turn the wheels to get them to lock if they haven't been used in awhile.
Edit: Yeah what he said! Got in before me...
- Thread starter
- #4
1997 model
The truck is a 1997 model. I have tried figure 8's and circles. The only locker switch is a rotary switch to left of steering wheel. It has RR and then FR/RR. I have tried both positions with no luck. Thanks for the big welcome!!
The truck is a 1997 model. I have tried figure 8's and circles. The only locker switch is a rotary switch to left of steering wheel. It has RR and then FR/RR. I have tried both positions with no luck. Thanks for the big welcome!!
- Thread starter
- #5
BTW
By the way. The previous owner was an older man from Florida. It's possible 4 low was never used and the lockers were never used. Don't know if that makes a difference
By the way. The previous owner was an older man from Florida. It's possible 4 low was never used and the lockers were never used. Don't know if that makes a difference
It does make a difference. You need to exercise the 4L. Wherever the contacts are on the CDL switch can get glazed over wherever they are.
The reason your lockers aren't locking is because the lockers can't engage unless the center diff lock light on the dash comes on. I'm not sure where the sensor is for the CDL, maybe someone else here can chime in on that.
It sounds like they havent been used in a long time, if at all. Go back out to a LONG dirt road or somwhere were there's some loose stuff and lock them in. Dash lights will keep blinking till they lock in.
It took mine awhile to lock in too when I bought it.....just went 4 wheelin. My front locked in first then finally the rear.
Good luck...Scott
It took mine awhile to lock in too when I bought it.....just went 4 wheelin. My front locked in first then finally the rear.
Good luck...Scott
- Thread starter
- #8
Going out now!
Thanks guys. Going out 4 wheelin to try to get them to lock now! Will let you know.
Thanks guys. Going out 4 wheelin to try to get them to lock now! Will let you know.
- Thread starter
- #10
I love your Reagan Quote!!
I just purchased a 97 with the same problem. The front does bind up but the DIFF LOCK light nor the ABS come on at all. Is there a way to just test the lights?
When placed in 4L and I turn tightly you can feel it binding, which if i understand correctly means
that the CDL is working but the light is not coming on.
Can someone help? Ive been off roading but to no avail.
thanks!
When placed in 4L and I turn tightly you can feel it binding, which if i understand correctly means
that the CDL is working but the light is not coming on.
Can someone help? Ive been off roading but to no avail.
thanks!
- Thread starter
- #13
There is a way to test the light using a paperclip. I found it on this forum. I don't remember the link. Just search "cdl will not lock". If you don't find it let me know. I have it somewhere at home
I can seem to find that post.
The ABS light comes on when ignition is turned a half turn before starting. So I assume its functional.
When put into 4L I hear a clicking in the panel so that sounds like it grounding.
Im trying to figure this out quick, I can still return vehicle but I need to soon.
I need help trying to find problem soon so I can decide whether to take it back or not.
Thanks
The ABS light comes on when ignition is turned a half turn before starting. So I assume its functional.
When put into 4L I hear a clicking in the panel so that sounds like it grounding.
Im trying to figure this out quick, I can still return vehicle but I need to soon.
I need help trying to find problem soon so I can decide whether to take it back or not.
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #15
Try this link it's very helpful: Troubleshooting the Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Center Diff Lock (CDL) | Pacific Northwest Backroad Adventures
Just putting this out there to see if it might even be a possibility that the previous owner did the "CDL switch mod / 7 pin mod" and you are not getting the CDL to activate because the new CDL switch in not "on"???
Could this even happen? I guess that if it could it would be a very rare possibility.
LOL... my bad... din't this was already covered in post #3:whoops:
Could this even happen? I guess that if it could it would be a very rare possibility.
LOL... my bad... din't this was already covered in post #3:whoops:
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This same thing just happened to me yesterday on my recently acquired truck. I did what Scott advised. The front locked up first. Took the rear a few tries, but it works fine now.
Also, are you putting the rig in neutral or park before you shift into low and then try to engage the front and rear lockers?
I got my issue fixed, sorry if I hijacked your thread at all I am just learning forum etiquette.
I am curious to see if how your problem is coming along or if you already fixed it and how. seems this is a much too common problem
I am curious to see if how your problem is coming along or if you already fixed it and how. seems this is a much too common problem
Not so much a problem. The dif lock need to be engaged periodically to ensure that they keep working properly. There are a couple of steps that have to be taked to engage them. Once you learn that, they're not a problem.
- Thread starter
- #20
I'm glad you guys got your problems fixed! My problem is still not resolved. I tried the paper clip trick and finally got cdl light to come on in the dash. I trtied the paper clip on cdl actuator and I can hear it trying to work but it won't lock in. I'm assuming my actuator must be bad/stuck. When I get time I will lower transfer case and check it out. If it's bad does anyone know what one costs?
