Both of these alternators look internally regulated - the thing you keep circling in yellow is the noise suppression condenser.
New alternator, 60 won’t stay on at idle
- Thread starter UGA2018
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- #23
Super helpful. Thank you. Napa said it was externally regulated but that definitely doesn’t mean it is.
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- #24
Any experience with this alternator from CityRacer? Looks like for a 62 and 80 amps.
This seems like an easier route than requiring everything.
Alternator for US Spec Land Cruiser FJ62 FJ80
Aftermarket remanufactured alternator for '88 to '92 US Spec Toyota Land Cruiser FJ62, FJ80 with 3FE engine. Corresponds to OEM part # 27060-61090 / 27060-61091.
www.cityracerllc.com
This seems like an easier route than requiring everything.
Mea culpa on my part - I just looked up the NAPA alternator you got, and it is an external regulated type. The regulator would look something like this if you had it, probably mounted on the fender:
No personal experience with the City Racer alternator, sorry.
No personal experience with the City Racer alternator, sorry.
Your current ALT is externally Regulated. It's an Alternator for an FJ40 or non-USA FJ60.
Nothing wrong with the CR alternator, but your connectors are fudged, so you'll have to find the connector for that pigtail, or wire directly. The connectors are on ebay.
I think this might be easier, on Rockauto:
I think this is the correct connector, but verify:
3 Wire Alternator Harness Repair Plug Connector For Chevy Suzuki Denso Toyota | eBay
1)Important! Please check the OE number in the listing is same with your car part Original number or not OE Number For Reference:100211-3170,100211-3260,100211-7060,100211-7061 Application: For Chevy Suzuki Denso Toyota 2)Warranty:1 Year 3)Condition:NEW!! 4)It is Aftermarket Car Part.Not...
www.ebay.com
Last edited:
g-man
SILVER Star
I had one of those pure energy 14461 alternators on my 87 fj60, it lasted around 2 years. My suggestion is to get a stock 55amp OEM correct alternator and wire it the way it is supposed to be wired unless you have a bunch of aftermarket accessories ie winch, off road lights etc, and need more amps. You can find used ones that come up or post a wanted ad in the classifieds section.
When the smoke was coming off the firewall did it smell electrical? Like plastic burning? If so, check your wiring harness by removing the kick panel under the driver's side dash and check the ground junction as well as behind the fuse box for burned wires ...especially grounds. You will have to cut into the wiring harness bundle to find the ground junction there. It's about 1/2 between the fuse box and the firewall. You may need to drop the relay rail down a bit. Ground wires are white with black stripe.
When the smoke was coming off the firewall did it smell electrical? Like plastic burning? If so, check your wiring harness by removing the kick panel under the driver's side dash and check the ground junction as well as behind the fuse box for burned wires ...especially grounds. You will have to cut into the wiring harness bundle to find the ground junction there. It's about 1/2 between the fuse box and the firewall. You may need to drop the relay rail down a bit. Ground wires are white with black stripe.
- Thread starter
- #28
I hate reading a thread that doesn’t close the loop so I wanted to make sure and do that here. I’ve learned a lot! After debating what do to do I took some of the advice you gave me and called another alternator shop that @BGarcia88FJ62 told me about. All I can say is these alternator rebuilder guys are a dying breed and when you find a good one they are a wealth of knowledge.
so here’s what I learned:
- the alternator that had a bad bearing that I pulled off my truck (originally from a 62) really is a goner. He put in a new bearing and thought he could salvage it but when the previous bearing went out it rubbed against the stator. He’s going to look for an old core with a good stator so we can rebuild it as a backup.
- that Napa alternator is externally regulated and I needed an internally regulated one as @Spike Strip said. Just because Napa says it fits doesn’t mean it does!
- old alternator rebuilder guys have lots of parts laying around. He happened to have a 70 amp Japanese made alternator that had the same connectors as the one I just pulled off. He said I can wire it up exactly like the one I took off. It has the 60 bolting mount layout so it won’t be such a bear to get on like the 62 alternator is. He also happened to have the right pigtail connector laying around that he threw in.
- that smoke probably was because of all of those unregulated amps running through the wires. Fingers crossed that I turned it off before it fried anything. I’ll know soon!
I’ll put it on the truck tomorrow and expect to be back on the road. I’ll confirm with your guys that it works. Thanks for the help!
so here’s what I learned:
- the alternator that had a bad bearing that I pulled off my truck (originally from a 62) really is a goner. He put in a new bearing and thought he could salvage it but when the previous bearing went out it rubbed against the stator. He’s going to look for an old core with a good stator so we can rebuild it as a backup.
- that Napa alternator is externally regulated and I needed an internally regulated one as @Spike Strip said. Just because Napa says it fits doesn’t mean it does!
- old alternator rebuilder guys have lots of parts laying around. He happened to have a 70 amp Japanese made alternator that had the same connectors as the one I just pulled off. He said I can wire it up exactly like the one I took off. It has the 60 bolting mount layout so it won’t be such a bear to get on like the 62 alternator is. He also happened to have the right pigtail connector laying around that he threw in.
- that smoke probably was because of all of those unregulated amps running through the wires. Fingers crossed that I turned it off before it fried anything. I’ll know soon!
I’ll put it on the truck tomorrow and expect to be back on the road. I’ll confirm with your guys that it works. Thanks for the help!
Good luck.
That Alt from NAPA fits a Land Cruiser, just not yours. Most parts drones don't know a Land Cruiser from a Land Rover, let alone the various model and North American/world spec differences, and usually will just find the first thing that looks right so they can sell you something and get you out the door.
Let us know how it goes.
That Alt from NAPA fits a Land Cruiser, just not yours. Most parts drones don't know a Land Cruiser from a Land Rover, let alone the various model and North American/world spec differences, and usually will just find the first thing that looks right so they can sell you something and get you out the door.
Let us know how it goes.
- Thread starter
- #30
The saga continues! I went to put the alternator on and realized that the width between the mounting arms is about .75 inches too narrow. You can see in this side by side picture that the new one I bought is more narrow.
My guy is going to check to see what he might have that can work. If he can’t find anything is there a way to modify the bracket?
My guy is going to check to see what he might have that can work. If he can’t find anything is there a way to modify the bracket?
If the top mounting ear of the alt lines up with the bracket, then you can stack some washers where need on the lower bracket so it tightens up.
Alternatively, you could make some spacers.
Can you post a pic of the rear of the NEWEST alternator you received?
FWIW (I don't know if yours was previously modified), if you find the alternator Fan Blades hit the adjusting bracket, @ToyotaMatt makes a replacement bracket that clears the blades, but I don't think he's listed it on the website, yet?
Alternatively, you could make some spacers.
Can you post a pic of the rear of the NEWEST alternator you received?
FWIW (I don't know if yours was previously modified), if you find the alternator Fan Blades hit the adjusting bracket, @ToyotaMatt makes a replacement bracket that clears the blades, but I don't think he's listed it on the website, yet?
Contact these guys linked below.
They were local to me (45 minutes away) and they had a rebuilt Toyota alternator for my 2F. It fits perfectly because its the real deal and they rebuilt it great. Output was perfect.
Give them a call or email. I’m sure they’d ship you one if they’ve got one.
They were local to me (45 minutes away) and they had a rebuilt Toyota alternator for my 2F. It fits perfectly because its the real deal and they rebuilt it great. Output was perfect.
Give them a call or email. I’m sure they’d ship you one if they’ve got one.
STARTERS AND ALTERNATORS
C.P. GENERATOR INC. Alternator and Starter remanufacturer Since 1962. Custom builder of High Amperage Alternators. UP TO 350 AMPS
www.cpgenerator.com
- Thread starter
- #34
The “newest” alternator has the front side mounts perfectly aligned on top of each other as you can see in these pictures.If the top mounting ear of the alt lines up with the bracket, then you can stack some washers where need on the lower bracket so it tightens up.
Alternatively, you could make some spacers.
Can you post a pic of the rear of the NEWEST alternator you received?
FWIW (I don't know if yours was previously modified), if you find the alternator Fan Blades hit the adjusting bracket, @ToyotaMatt makes a replacement bracket that clears the blades, but I don't think he's listed it on the website, yet?
- Thread starter
- #35
Unfortunately, the space between the mounting arms doesn’t allow for what @Spike Strip recommends. As you can see in this picture when I hold the alternator up to the bracket i line up the right side in blue so that the belt would line up. When I do that the left side hits on top of the bracket.
Ah, ok, I see. I'd forgotten how the lower setup bolted up.
As stated earlier, your easiest replacement is gonna be one the is exactly the same as the one you removed, an 80-amp FJ62 alt. Part # 27060-61090
Pricey from Toyota, but you have a core (rebuildable or not). All you have to do is swap the single pulley
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
As stated earlier, your easiest replacement is gonna be one the is exactly the same as the one you removed, an 80-amp FJ62 alt. Part # 27060-61090
Pricey from Toyota, but you have a core (rebuildable or not). All you have to do is swap the single pulley
27060-61090-84 - Toyota Parts Deal
www.toyotapartsdeal.com
If you’re gonna alter-nate ?
Do it right …
Do it right …
IF NOT ?
do it right also .......
do it right also .......
