New 1FZ shortblock (1 Viewer)

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I feel fortunate my Mr t parts guy overall is a good one, attention to detail, knowledgeable, but most importantly he's willing to work with me on the hard to find stuff.

He said he's about to retire any day though.......

Other than liking the 80 a lot, and he's been with me on this journey from the start four years ago, he doesn't know much about Land cruisers, overall though I have a good relationship with him and I'll miss him when he retires.
 
A good parts professional will not care the platform; they will do their best to do their professional best to assist the customer. If it’s a 10-12 digit Toyota PN, I was interested in my parts days.

Especially when you are dealing with such a large portfolio like Toyota’s.

I recall being able to put together a timing belt part job for any Toyota with a timing belt in less than 1 min; we had the parts in stock, I knew all the numbers off the top of my head, and I knew what was needed.

That’s a **base** level of knowledge needed to man a computer in the departments I worked in or ran.

A great saying I internalized very early on was the following: “a parts professional without a pen/pencil is unemployed.”

And, a parts professional will **always** know more than a mechanic. Always.

My first week working at American Toyota shipping and receiving dept. Circa September 2007.

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Awesome 🤣🍻 love the picture.

Then I'll say I'm fortunate and thankful for my part professional and the relationship I have with him.

Any consideration or precautions I should take in storing the short block?

I'm thinking about putting a gun safe heater in the box or on the block to keep everything dry.

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That's embarrassing. Especially to someone that spent 37 years in new car dealer parts operations.

With three different Cruisers I've bought a lot of parts through them, he was good enough to have had some discount code applied to my account, it's basically McGeorge pricing with free shipping. It has been a little more frustrating lately though as it seems to be a revolving door with the window guy/girl and I have to now ask if that still applies when they quote me a full retail price. He used to be very helpful but now he just looks irritated if I ask if it does, if I can even get him to pry his face out of his monitor for five seconds. Most of them knew me by name, now it's seemingly someone new each time I walk in, it's a strange feeling when the environment shifts like that.

Toyota isn't alone, my Ford dealership that I go to for my diesel truck got rid of their parts guy, he was great. Good prices and great service. They remodeled the building and apparently restaffed, he's gone and some new lady is there and won't honor any prior "good guy" discounts.

Unfortunately when the parts counter becomes unwelcoming people turn to other sources, overseas or Amazon. It's not what I prefer, but they changed what it was, not me.

It's almost like they now exist to supply their techs and the walk-in guy is an outsider/obsolete.
 
Awesome 🤣🍻 love the picture.

Then I'll say I'm fortunate and thankful for my part professional and the relationship I have with him.

Any consideration or precautions I should take in storing the short block?

I'm thinking about putting a gun safe heater in the box or on the block to keep everything dry.

View attachment 3266939
If you keep it in a climate controlled area, then you shouldn't have to.

In the middle of your living room as a coffee table, for example. That would be a perfect place for it, as you can watch it on a daily basis to make sure that no corrosion has started and you can give it a loving pat every day.

Yes, you can place that heater in there. What is the fire risk on that? What is the surface temp it can achieve? I recommend that you keep it tightly wrapped in plastic and if the heater won't exceed a surface temp of more than 120°F, then you shouldn't have to worry about it melting the plastic.

Otherwise, you can pick up large desiccant packets from McMaster Carr (2228K8 for ship board containers) and place them in the tightly wrapped plastic bag it's in. Do not set the desiccant bag directly on the metal, as there is sometimes a moisture contact patch right where the bag sits. Lay it on a piece of plastic to separate it from touching the metal, but open to the rest of the air in the big plastic bag. The desiccant we use comes with a color changing disc to show that they are still good and don't need changed out. The disc changes color when humidity reaches a certain point.

We use the huge packs for shipping containers and one pack of 32 packets will do about (3) 40 ft shipping containers.
 
If you keep it in a climate controlled area, then you shouldn't have to.

In the middle of your living room as a coffee table, for example. That would be a perfect place for it, as you can watch it on a daily basis to make sure that no corrosion has started and you can give it a loving pat every day.

Yes, you can place that heater in there. What is the fire risk on that? What is the surface temp it can achieve? I recommend that you keep it tightly wrapped in plastic and if the heater won't exceed a surface temp of more than 120°F, then you shouldn't have to worry about it melting the plastic.

Otherwise, you can pick up large desiccant packets from McMaster Carr (2228K8 for ship board containers) and place them in the tightly wrapped plastic bag it's in. Do not set the desiccant bag directly on the metal, as there is sometimes a moisture contact patch right where the bag sits. Lay it on a piece of plastic to separate it from touching the metal, but open to the rest of the air in the big plastic bag. The desiccant we use comes with a color changing disc to show that they are still good and don't need changed out. The disc changes color when humidity reaches a certain point.

We use the huge packs for shipping containers and one pack of 32 packets will do about (3) 40 ft shipping containers.
Awesome! Super appreciate the input and bouncing ideas around.

I have perforated desiccant cans with a color change window I used before I found the rods.

I'll use the rod on the block and cans around inside. They don't get to hot, they are made to keep inside the door or area just warmer than outside damp air which prevents condensation on metal.

I think this idea will work perfectly.
 
Awesome! Super appreciate the input and bouncing ideas around.

I have perforated desiccant cans with a color change window I used before I found the rods.

I'll use the rod on the block and cans around inside. They don't get to hot, they are made to keep inside the door or area just warmer than outside damp air which prevents condensation on metal.

I think this idea will work perfectly.
It actually works because it keeps the temperature above dew point. otherwise, it would go through dewpoint twice per day and it would cause moisture condensation on the cooler surfaces.

Desiccant absorbs any moisture downs to a certain RH to keep the surrounding air "dry".
 
I just ordered a new cylinder head, cams and short-block from Olathe. I've probably got another 45 part numbers waiting in the cart.

Has anyone else compiled a list of everything needed to essentially make a new & complete engine? I'd like to compare notes to make sure I'm not missing something.
 
I just ordered a new cylinder head, cams and short-block from Olathe. I've probably got another 45 part numbers waiting in the cart.

Has anyone else compiled a list of everything needed to essentially make a new & complete engine? I'd like to compare notes to make sure I'm not missing something.
@COYS made a sweet list, though I don't recall which thread.
 

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