Need Ideas...Puma Quick Remove Mount (1 Viewer)

[Dissent]

I am moving my Puma back to the passenger side on an LCP Puma Mount. I need a quick disconnect plate of some sort to be able to quickly remove it now and then. I need access to my fuse panel and aux. wiring setup behind the cubby door. It has been bolted on that platform before but I moved it to the drivers mount to get to the wiring area and planted my Water Bricks there but now it's coming back to the passenger side.

I've seen bass boat seat mounts that could work but the inserts (piece that mounts to the seat) swivel. I can't find a stationary mount. I've considered HD clevis pins and springs in conjunction with the rubber feet but I don't think I can get the tension needed to keep it from rocking.

I'm investigating throw-lever bolts similar to mountain bike hubs but I don't think I have enough room on the wall side. Considering a hold down bracket on the wall side to slide the compressor into then fasten with the throw-lever but the fridge will be close and all that may not work.

A sliding mount, towards the 2nd row, on short drawer slides is also a consideration.

Anyone have any slick ideas?

 

[Dissent]

I found something promising; a trolling motor mount. 1/2 mounts to the floor, 1/2 mounts to the device. The 2 pieces for together like a puzzle, locked with a stainless steel bar. Fairly cheap too at $57.

Amazon.com : Watersnake Quick Release Nylon Bracket (White, 14-Inch). : Outboard Boat Motor Brackets : Sports & Outdoors

 

[Dissent]

That trolling motor mount inspires me to source 1/2" or 3/4" HPDE sheet the size of the Puma mount, waterjet or saw a rectangle inner puck to ensure a snug and rattle free fit, then drill and pin with a stainless steel pin.

Anyone have a waterjet?

 

[NLXTACY]

That trolling motor mount inspires me to source 1/2" or 3/4" HPDE sheet the size of the Puma mount, waterjet or saw a rectangle inner puck to ensure a snug and rattle free fit, then drill and pin with a stainless steel pin.

Anyone have a waterjet?

Give me all the specs. I’ll cut you a piece to experiment with.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Check with @Otter he has been running a simple low cost home brewed quick disconnect on his PUMA in his 80 series and most recently divorced the PUMA and set it up using the same quick disconnect mount for his 100 series.

 

[BayArea80]

Really interested to see where you end up on this as I am interested in something similar.

 

[Dissent]

I was playing with the idea of the clevis pins and between my big hands and the dark space, I can't get them in and out as quick as I'd like. The waterbrick mount I made spoiled me because you can basically get in the general vincinity and the pegs guide it in. Very handy when you're standing at the tail gate reaching in. So far, the trolling motor style mount fits that bill too. I don't have to be precise at all to land it in the mount. While I'm getting some measurements for @NLXTACY, I'm working on sourcing 10" pins to remove from the skinny end. The fridge is in the way otherwise.

A buddy at work mentioned electromagnets like they use on glass doors in office buildings. That was an intriguing idea.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

<snip>

A buddy at work mentioned electromagnets like they use on glass doors in office buildings. That was an intriguing idea.

Until you loose power and it becomes a heavy fly in the cab.

 

[Dissent]

Until you loose power and it becomes a heavy fly in the cab.

True. Always have a 2nd safety retention device.

 

[Dissent]

More research on the trolling motor mount is proving productive. The aluminum models are very pricey though but perfect for quick release from the end. The composite mounts are perfect but the side access is a no go. I'll play with a home built composite with 1-2 long screws or pins from the end to lock the puck and plate together. Screws would be easy to thread into HPDE and all the actual retaining force is along the shaft of the pin or screw.

This mount here is perfect but super expensive - https://www.amazon.com/Motorguide-8..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=VWE7J09C55T06NH0GY1Z - $152

This mount is nearly perfect, exactly what I pictured, but the pin needs to come from the end, not enough room between the Puma and the fridge. And it's too expensive - https://www.amazon.com/Minn-Kota-1854054-Electric-Composite/dp/B073RTZGTT/ref=cm_wl_huc_item - $183

 

[LC4LIFE]

I just welded a plate to the top of the bracket I pulled off a junkyard set of 3rd row seats. My electrical is also behind the cubby and I periodically use the third row so I needed to have the ability to remove the puma and either access the fuse block and electrical, or put a seat in. I went to ace and replaced a bolt with a turn knob and now I can remove/reinstall at will. It basically comes off just like the seat does. Been running this way for over a year and I really like it.

 

[Dissent]

I just welded a plate to the top of the bracket I pulled off a junkyard set of 3rd row seats. My electrical is also behind the cubby and I periodically use the third row so I needed to have the ability to remove the puma and either access the fuse block and electrical, or put a seat in. I went to ace and replaced a bolt with a turn knob and now I can remove/reinstall at will. It basically comes off just like the seat does. Been running this way for over a year and I really like it.

View attachment 1745241 View attachment 1745242

That's a pretty slick setup. Nice job!