Need HELP!!!

[MudHunter]

I am a friggen idiot. I forgot to order a 54mm socket for my Birf. replacement. Does anyone in WNC or the Upstate have one I could borrow?

I was trying to get the 40 back up and running for this weekend.

 

[GXO]

As in currently broken birfield? If you can roll to Tellico with parts I can get that done in an hour or so in camp.

 

[MudHunter]

Yes its broken now. I have a replacement Birf, grease, the seals and gaskets, should be at the house tonight when I get home. I started to tear into it, and then got stoped about 1 min into the repair due to lack of 54mm socket.

It is possible that I can tow it there for help also. I really appreciate the offer. I will see if anyone else chimes in, and then get back with this thread to let you know what the decision is.

I wonder if there is room for a trailer there???

 

[GXO]

There is aux parking/overflow camping by McNabb. Worst case you could park the tow rig and trailer closer to the trails...plenty of places.

 

[GXO]

It is also early in the week...you could easily get a 54mm if someone doesn't have one to lend. Worst case, you can use a screw driver to notch one side of the nuts and loosen/tighten them...but I prefer not to. You can also use an SAE in a pinch as well...I believe the 2 1/4" socket at Sears or the like will do.

 

[MudHunter]

I searched every conceivable place yesterday in Asheville trying to find a 2 1/8" socket. Sears had one...but is was shallow and I doubt it would make it over the axle far enough to actually come in contact with the hub nut. Plus is was double the cost of one I cold order, and 3/4" drive to boot. All the parts stores have 2 1/4" hub sockets...but no 2 1/8".


You mentioned 2 1/4"....is this the correct size?

I may have made a mistake since I was ticked off at myself.

 

[BELMONT148]

2 1/8" is the same as a 54mm. A 2 1/4" would be little bigger but probably get it tight enough. The other option would be to use a screwdriver and keep hitting the edge of the nut until it tightens. This is o.k. usually for removal, but there is know way of knowing what torque specs you have tightened it back to. Especially since you have to really tighten it to reset the hub onto the spindle. I would either give the 2 1'4" a try or wait and get some help. If it were me, I would just order the right socket. You have enough time to get it mailed to you, and then you have the right one instead of wasting your money on the wrong one.

 

[MudHunter]

Oh yeh...I am all about having the right tool for the job. I dont want to bugger the thing up...but man...the pipe wrench was looking very usable last night, and I was tempted!!!

I think I found a old buddy who is a mechanic who may have one. We'll see....

 

[Trollhole]

I have the 75 and later socket. Kind you just slip a screwdriver in to turn. Works well. Let me know if this is what you need. I can get it in to UPS tomorrow and you can have it wed.

Earlier models used a smaller socket.

 

[MudHunter]

OK....so I have it all torn down and ready re-install everything. I need to post a pic...but the inside of the axle housing that surrounds the birf. is pretty scratched up, apparently from the broken peices of birf floating around in there. IS THIS BAD?? I have it all clean and my thinking is that nothing should touch the walls unless its broken, so it wont matter.

By the way....the hub nut is DEFINATELY NOT 54mm. I'm thinking its a 50mm...but not confident in that statement either.

 

[GXO]

The housing usually has burrs, etc from birf bits. As long as your axle seal surface is smooth you should be okay to reinstall the seals. Beyond that, I usually dremel the burrs off and clean it out.

Sounds like you have the older hub nut...that is 50mm if you had/have drum brakes.