Need Help With Brakes

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Not yet. I bled the rear wheel cylinders but could not get the drums off to clean up the inside. The two holes in the drum that take a bolt to help get it off are rusted to the point of being stripped. It looks like they are bigger that the holes in the axle flange (8x1.25 I think).

What size bolt do you use to take of the drums?

Any suggestions for removing the drums without the bolts?

At this point the brakes are not good. Several pumps will harden the pedal and stop the truck better. I guess I'll look into the various flex lines on it now.

I need to replace the the wheel bearings in the rear, so I was hoping to do the rear brakes at the same time. I have a bearing and seal kit on the bench just waiting to used.

To adjust the rear brakes you just need a big flat screwdirver, correct? I know the fsm calls for a sst.
 
To adjust the rear brakes you just need a big flat screwdirver, correct? I know the fsm calls for a sst.

Flat screwdriver. Remember there are TWO wheel cylinders on each side and BOTH need to be adjusted equally.
 
Penetrating fluid and a BFH will usually get the drums off; wire-wheel the surface rust off the end of the hub helps too. To adjust the wheel cylinders, I use a flat-head screw driver with about a 45 deg. bend in it...my home made sst.

It really does sound like you haven't bled the brakes enough. It takes several tries if you're doing it one whel at a time. If it'll run/drive well enough to get it to a shop w/ a power bleeder, you may save yourself a lot of time and (usually) they'll check and adjust your brakes (hoping to sell you a brake job)

Dan
 
Two degrees of PITA drum removal.

1. Heat up with a torch the drum part of the hole in the middle opening area -- not red hot, just warm it up. That is usually where I have issues. (Once it is off, clean it up with some sandpaper) Use your BFH and beat the sides to work it loose.


2. (someone had great advice and it worked for me) For really bad brakes where the bfh and blue hammer did not work, unbolt all the brake cylinders (bolts accessed on back of drum) you likely need to remove anyway, (remember to take brake lines off first) you may hear parts fall inside, but the point is that everything gets loosened up inside, and that releaved some tension. My problem drum came right off after a couple additioanl blows with BFH.

Good luck
 
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weld a nut to the spot where the 2 holes stripped out use bolt in the new welded nut to remove drums, then determine if drums are salvageable or scrap grind off welded nut if reusing drums.
 
Bingo.

I can do that.

Just not right now, as we are in the middle of a deep freeze and lots of snow. Maybe on Sunday.
 
Erik-

Had not heard that one yet. Nice idea!

So we started with a big hammer, added a torch, not you added a welder.... I wonder if we can add some explosive next?

Still have 10 fingers?

K
 
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