"Need Help Can't Get It In Gear"

[truword1]

Hey guys, I really need your help. I blew out the clutch two weeks ago and this weekend I replaced the whole thing. (Fly wheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing.) Well when I push the clutch in to get it into gear it won't let me with out grinding. So what I did was replace the master clutch cylinder and the slave cylinder and bleed them both. I got pleasure but it seems like the slave cylinder is not pushing the clutch in far enough. Is there some way to adjust this or what ? I spent all weekend trying to figure it out!!!!! Please help........................

Thanks
JD

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

THere is an adjustable rod the goes from the pedal to the clutch master cylinder, you want to thread the rod out, so when you hook it back to the pedal it will push it in more.... if that makes sense......

 

[DanS HJ-45]

THere is an adjustable rod the goes from the pedal to the clutch master cylinder, you want to thread the rod out, so when you hook it back to the pedal it will push it in more.... if that makes sense......

x2

Also, I have had a clutch do the exact same thing to me. I adjusted, bled and rebled it until, well, until the clutch bled. It would go into/out of gear without the engine running, but I couldn't go into or out of gear with the engine running. So I decided to worry about other things and let the engine idle with the transmission in nuetral for probably 20 minutes (I was watching the engine get up to temperature). Somehow that idling fixed the clutch problem.

Don't ask me what the deal was, but I think that something was causing the brand new clutch to stick to the freshly surfaced flywheel even when disengaged, at least enough to cause the transmission to spin enough to prevent me from putting it in gear.

Again, I don't know what the story was, but your problem sounds exactly like the one I had, that was fixed by just letting it idle in nuetral for a while.

Dan

 

[truword1]

I've adjusted the clutch pedal all the way out and still not enouch to push the clutch in! I don't know what to do next?????????

It goes into/out of gear without the engine running, but it won't go into or out of gear with the engine running.

Some please help......

JD

 

[WristPin]

did you make sure the rod is seating in the fork and slave right?

you may need to pressure bleed it.

 

[truword1]

What do you mean by pressure bleeding it?

Thanks
JD

 

[Thrillbillie]

I had a similar problem with my winter beater the "Bandit" (84 with a 5 spd and 22R). My nieghbor recomended replaceing the rod that goes from the clutch slave to the fork with one from a cruiser. It's threaded and you can make it as long as you want. That fixed it right up.
Another thing you can do, just to isolate the problem, is pump your clutch pedal rapidly 3-4 times then try to put in gear. If it suddenly goes into gear that tells me your your clutch master cylinder is leaking internaly

 

[Full_M3tal]

Blled Your Clutch Line As If You Where Bleeding Your Brakes, Aslo Check To See If You Need A New Slave. And When I Had A Clutch I My Yota The Plastic Cup On The Master Cylinder Broke Letting Air And Fluid In My Lines.

 

[beafire]

Was the clutch disc installed correctly? The wrong way and no disengagement.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

I wanted to revive this thread as we have been having the same issue with an 85 4runner. The clutch is not new however. It was working properly one morning and a few hours later this same problem as stated above started up.

Replaced the master cylinder with known working one, no fix.
Adjusted rod, no fix.

Any ideas.

 

[mith]

Slave cylinder?

 

[WristPin]

What do you mean by pressure bleeding it?

Thanks
JD

a unit designed for hydraloc systems like brake systems.

a stainless steel sphere is filled with brake fluid. then the caontainer is sealed and pressurized with shop air. a hose connects to the sphere and to a detachable plate with a rubber seal. different attachments are used for each style of master cylinder resivior.

once the attachment is fitted on the resivoir, the bleeder valve of , in your case the slave cylinder is opened.

then on the sphere, a valve is turned that releases the pressurized fluid into your hydro clutch system. pumping the pedal is not required, however some people pump it. either way is ok.

after a short peroid of time, the bleeder can be closed and quickly close the vavle.

if the valve is not closed with in a few long moments, fluid will squirt out of between the plate seal and top of resivor.

this method is by far the most effective on all hydrolic systems.
but unfortunalty these tools cost more than 500 dollars. so to get the service done this way, one would have to call a shop who has one and get er done there.

 

[foxfab]

shifter seat?

 

[beatdown83fj60]

Im not sure if this is any help but I dealt with it on my 4Runner shortly after I bought it. There was water in the hydraulic line so I opened up the cap on the master, and opened up the bleeder on the slave, and just let it drip dry. Then I closed up the bleeder, filled the master with fluid, opened the bleeder back up and let it just drip until the master was half empty then closed the bleeder back up. Pump 5-6 times, jam a piece of steel scrap between the seat and the pedal, crack bleeder open for a second, refill master, repeat process. I did this about 5 times to insure there was no more water in the line and the clutch works perfectly now.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Shifter seat is a good thought.... Easy enough to check too....