need help adjusting carb (1 Viewer)

[RodrigzCrzr]

Getting a good squirt. I will try to get a pic or video.

I also tried jumping the coil straight to the battery, that didn't change anything, then I swapped in another coil ( not new), no change. Everything went back to original.
Removed the jets, cleaned them with a small wire and reinstalled. No change.
Removed plugs, black, but dry, cleaned and gapped ( they were all very close 0.86 mm) and reinstalled. No change.

Right now, I have the idle solenoid out, I was planning on carb spray, then compressed air, before my wife derailed me. Will start with that first thing in the morning.

EDIT. I was in the garage trying to capture a pic of the spray and I noticed it looks like something stuck in there....sprays out in three directions. I will report back after a thorough carb cleaning a la pinheads videos.

I’m going through the same thing on my 71 fj40.
I have the stumble also.

 

[Grayscale]

I think that it might be possible that after so many years, a carb is just too corroded internally for further use? Like maybe someone can remove and replace freeze plugs so that the passages can be checked, but, I can't imagine electrolysis/rust remover doing it with brass like stuff in there, and the carb dips seem to be more about removing varnish, and not eating rust. I swapped out my original for a new OEM one, and it was far better for throttle response and mpg, even running smaller jets (not sure about throttle bore diameters).

A whole bunch of engine stuff could manifest as carb issues, but, it usually is more complex than that.

Regardless, usually after a bit of struggle, plugs need cleaning.

I insist on using a split-lock-washers under the carb stud nuts. If the galling from assembly and reassembly is not pretty, I place a flat washer under the split-lock-washer. I keep a magnet nearby and anticipate dropping some of the hardware.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

FWIW,

Getting a good squirt. I will try to get a pic or video.

I also tried jumping the coil straight to the battery, that didn't change anything, then I swapped in another coil ( not new), no change. Everything went back to original.
Removed the jets, cleaned them with a small wire and reinstalled. No change.
Removed plugs, black, but dry, cleaned and gapped ( they were all very close 0.86 mm) and reinstalled. No change.

Right now, I have the idle solenoid out, I was planning on carb spray, then compressed air, before my wife derailed me. Will start with that first thing in the morning.

EDIT. I was in the garage trying to capture a pic of the spray and I noticed it looks like something stuck in there....sprays out in three directions. I will report back after a thorough carb cleaning a la pinheads videos.

It won’t hurt to rebuild the carb if it has not been done in a long time, but If the only problem is the accelerator pump, you can replace the pump and clean out those passages in just few minutes. I would resist the temptation to replace the entire carb with a new one. Been there-done that. I have rebuilt many old carbs and they run like new.

 

[liko]

I spend more time looking for washers on the ground than I get to drive my 40. I think maybe my hard (og) fuel line from pump to carb might be supplying me with rust, the rest of the fuel system is rust free.

Keeping my carb, I have a Chinese backup, but the linkage looks like a headache to adapt.

 

[Grayscale]

?... post #98.

 

[liko]

Yup. Idle solenoid was off, as well as accelerator linkage. Took off top of the carb. Blew air and carb cleaner thru the passages, especially the accelerator nozzle. Must have been some debris in there, squirting much better, strong flow, straight stream right under the venturi. Drives much better, still the slightest hesitation, and backfire thru the carb. Too rich? Is that why my plugs are black too? Did the lean drop adjustment. Timed, BB gone in window, rpm at 600, vacuum at 19. Will go for test drive when rain stops.