Need guidance on stopping leaks (1 Viewer)

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avicenna110

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Jul 29, 2021
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Sunnyvale, CA
Hi all,

I have some leaks from the transfer case and rear axle on our 65. I mostly wanna know if I’m on the right path. Here is the breakdown on each

Differential:

I changed the gasket on the rear cover, noticed that instead of studs it has bolts. The hole go through the housing like the pic below. I put the bolts back with the new gasket and some thread seal hoping that it would stop the oil leaking through the threads. It’s still leaking, either through the threads or the gasket, I didn’t use any gasket sealant on the factory gasket. Question is, are the holes from factory supposed to be all the way through or do they button out. I’ll put studs next and see if they’d do a better job at sealing.

098553A9-A31A-4B56-9016-146B4AB4A4B7.jpeg


Transfer case:

I pin pointed the leaks to three locations, first is the parking break seal, which I just changed along with the parking brake but after I drove the car around noticed that the drum was very hot, so it was not adjusted correctly and most likely the seal is now bad. I’ll look into the double seals speedo housing next. The two other places are the idle shafts ends in the pics below:

633F6667-4C7C-4B69-9338-487EC169E3C0.jpeg
A50039FD-F65F-4363-9F93-B0125AF672D5.jpeg


I searched the forum and saw that some have changed the o-ring without taking the tcase apart. That will fix one side, how about the other side? Is the freeze plug supposed to seal the other end? Funny thing is that none were leaking prior to changing the oil.
 
If the new oil is synthetic- that would explain the new leaks.
I’d rather have weepy seals using synthetic oil than no leaks using conventional Dino oil.
I see, thanks. It makes sense since it’s thinner and flows better. I’m using Red Line full synthetic oil.
 

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