Need a CV reboot- what else should i do in the process?

[cwininger]

Did some reading on this, but i only have basic wrenching skills and a lot of it is dutch to me so i need some advice.

Driver's side outer CV boot is torn at the inner clamp. I'm not even going to consider attempting this job myself, so i'm taking it into my independent shop. what should i be asking them for?

• does the whole thing need to be rebooted, or can just the outer boot be done, and does it make sense to just do them both?
• would this job include repacking the bearings?
• any other PM that should be done while it's all torn apart?
• am i cool just replacing torn boots as needed, or should i have both sides done as PM?
• what's a reasonable price for the job if done by a mechanic?

anything else i should be asking about this job? would love some direction on this. thanks in advance.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Get the Toyota boot kit. If the shop knows what they're doing they can swing the hub off the end of the axle without digging into the hub and just do the reboot. If you haven't repacked the bearings in your hubs or are due, this is a good time to do it. For just the reboot I paid $300 through the dealership.

 

[cwininger]

^thanks for the help @Trunk Monkey. this truck was at the dealer every 5-10k for service it's entire life until 168k when i bought it. service history states both sides were re-booted at the lexus dealer at 121k. then at 125k the clamp where the tear is now was replaced because the boot was leaking. it's now at 174k. what are the chances the dealer did a bearing service during the re-boot at 121k? there's no mention of it in the notes.

 

[nissanh]

Then probably they didn't do it.

For the price you plan to pay for rebooting, you can get a brand new CV axle from Camelback toyota with free shipping and install it by your self.

I did this job 3 days ago. There are not much things to remove. Brake caliper bolts, upper control arm nut and ABS connector from the wire plug near the battery OR ABS sensor from the hub.

 

[2001LC]

Wheel bearings AND axle bushings & needle bearings should be serviced (packed) every 30K miles, so do them as well.

With the cost of Dealer labor it might be best to swap out with new OEM "pricy" or rebuilt OEM "$125 after core exchange". I do my own, so reboot makes sense, provided axle teeth and CV's of front drive shaft are still serviceable.

Have them replace axle hub flange if any wear is observed on teeth.

Have all ball joint inspected including tie rod.

 

[cwininger]

@nissanh thanks for that option. i checked out their parts page, but not sure which assembly i need. do you have a part number by chance?what do you guys think of the school of thought that says to just let it go until the cv joint starts to fail before even bothering with it, and then just replace the axle?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Well, you're looking at about $40 for the boot kit vs. $400 for a whole CV. So if that school of thought is "I have money to burn", then I guess replace the whole axle.

And don't worry about the flange, it's highly unlikely you have wear on the splines.

 

[cwininger]

Well, you're looking at about $40 for the boot kit vs. $400 for a whole CV. So if that school of thought is "I have money to burn", then I guess replace the whole axle.

And don't worry about the flange, it's highly unlikely you have wear on the splines.

i guess the idea is that, with the extra labor included in doing the boot replacement on a cv with 175k on it, you'll be pretty close to what you would spend on a new axle anyways. so why not just ride it out with the CV until it dies, which could still be a pretty long time. and then replace the whole thing. i've seen abused cv's with torn boots go thousands of miles without failure in a couple of my own cars, back when i was an irresponsible teenager with no money an no tools to fix anything. not saying i'm for or against it ( i barely know what i'm even talking about), but i think i get the rationale behind it.

 

[bozncsurf]

May want to include an alignment after the reboot.

 

[RootMeanSqr]

May want to include an alignment after the reboot.

I don't see any reason for an alignment after a reboot, unless the tires are wearing unevenly. Rebooting doesn't change geometry at all.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

CV's have to come out for reboot or replace, either way, so I don't know what extra labor you're including. It'd be ballpark $350 for reboot or $700 for a new CV installed. I'd rather have $350 left over for other mods. This is all of course pending that the boot hasn't been torn forever and the joint is dry.

 

[bozncsurf]

I don't see any reason for an alignment after a reboot, unless the tires are wearing unevenly. Rebooting doesn't change geometry at all.

Maybe I'm wrong but removing an axle and hub could through off the geometry ...

More than one member up here has complained of a steering pull after replacement but that could be a coincidence ???

I'll just stop talking about things I don't know.

 

[uHu]

As an absolute minimum, squirt some nlgi-1 Synt/Lith grease into the spindle bearing. The most overlooked lube point on a cruiser.

And then of course all the options mentioned above here. Depends on when you last did a wheel bearing repack and adjustment. You don't have to touch the wheel bearings for changing/servicing the shaft/CV, but you do have to pull the shaft out of the spindle bearing....

 

[cwininger]

thanks for all the advice guys. i'll talk to my mechanic about it. most likely just do the reboot and have him repack bearings on both sides and lube up the whole front end while he's got it. especially since i'm not positive of when it was last done.

does anybody make a bearing service kit?

 

[cwininger]

CV's have to come out for reboot or replace, either way, so I don't know what extra labor you're including. .

i guess taking off old boots, cleaning out cv's really good and re-greasing, putting new boots on. none of that has to be done with a new axle. but i guess i'm overestimating the cost of that work. probably on a cheaper vehicle with cheap axles it might make more sense to just swap them but in this case you are totally right- makes no sense to spend the extra money.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

@cruiseroutfit has a hub kit that has everything you need.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Maybe I'm wrong but removing an axle and hub could through off the geometry ...

More than one member up here has complained of a steering pull after replacement but that could be a coincidence ???

I'll just stop talking about things I don't know.

Nope

If its pulling after the work they did something wrong

 

[2001LC]

Torn boot will loose most or all grease. The bearings of the CV will burn up, which will start out as mild vibration (you'll hear a clicking) which vibration will increase. Vibration that can cause damage to other components. Granted it will take a lot of miles to damage other components but at minimum it will make your rig unreliable. If just differential seal leaks gear lube do to vibration, this would put your differential at risk. I'd fix torn boots when found!

Worn axle hub flange and axle teeth (splines) are cause of N to D clunk. IMHO it worth the $50 IF hub flange has ANY wear.

Flange with 200K miles:

Axle, as you can see has much less wear. This was a replacement CV (aftermarket front drive shaft) with only 30k miles and factory flange with 200K miles.

Main cause of this wear is improper wheel bearing service.

 

[medtro]

Worn axle hub flange and axle teeth (splines) are cause of N to D clunk. IMHO it worth the $50 IF hub flange has ANY wear.

I would do left-right flanges swap as a free alternative.

 

[nissanh]

@nissanh thanks for that option. i checked out their parts page, but not sure which assembly i need. do you have a part number by chance?what do you guys think of the school of thought that says to just let it go until the cv joint starts to fail before even bothering with it, and then just replace the axle?

Here is the page: Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

CV axle is number 23 ($393.93 :with free shipping anything above $150) in the parts diagram
Use code: TWpartz to receive 3% additional discount.

Digram: 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

If you plan to replace the entire axle, I'd run until the axle comes to its end. Then get a new one and slide it in.


As 2001LC said, get the flanges to mitigate the R to D front diff clunk. I have a small clunk after getting new CV's (aftermarket) with old flanges.