NC LX becomes NC LC
- Thread starter NC LX
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Holy ****ing s*** that's coolIf you called me in the last two hours, chances are I ignored your call. Took about 10 minutes, and the electric shears made quick work of the top.
I put the forks on the tractor and sat the top in place. Technically haven’t “installed” it yet, but the fit and finish is spot on. Have some help coming over later to help with the adhesion process, also gonna take the hood off and get it painted this weekend.
View attachment 3287389View attachment 3287393View attachment 3287392
View attachment 3287390
Still fits in the garage.
View attachment 3287391
- Thread starter
- #323
I’m not ruling it out. The top is Aluminum and I had it powder coated white. I’m gonna finish assembling and see how I feel about it in the future.
We definitely need to revisit this conversation over some brown water at Relic Run
If you called me in the last two hours, chances are I ignored your call. Took about 10 minutes, and the electric shears made quick work of the top.
I put the forks on the tractor and sat the top in place. Technically haven’t “installed” it yet, but the fit and finish is spot on. Have some help coming over later to help with the adhesion process, also gonna take the hood off and get it painted this weekend.
View attachment 3287389View attachment 3287393View attachment 3287392
View attachment 3287390
Still fits in the garage.
View attachment 3287391
I need a minute after seeing this. It looks amazing!
Now that you’ve fixed all the rust in your roof, you should cut it off too!
Now that you’ve fixed all the rust in your roof, you should cut it off too!
If I did I bet Johnny would light it on fire after all the work we put into it the past month lol.
If I lived out west and traveled and camped more, Sandy would 100% already have one. I talked to Eric about campteq’s when I met him at SAS in 2021.
Wow, this rig is amazing, great build!
- Thread starter
- #330
Pulled the hood and got it painted on both sides. Family dinner tomorrow, so I’ll have some extra hands to help sit it in place.
Also excited about eliminating the springs and installing the C2 design strut kit.
Finished up the adhesion process. I have a few ideas to make a filler panel to help the transition on the A-pillar.
Also excited about eliminating the springs and installing the C2 design strut kit.
Finished up the adhesion process. I have a few ideas to make a filler panel to help the transition on the A-pillar.
Last edited:
I’ll have to check out that C2 kit at relic run. Been eying one for my truck.
- Thread starter
- #332
It’s a solid kit. The real estate it frees up on the inner fenders to mount relays, solenoids, high lift jacks, spare tires, walk in closets, etc. is the best part.
- Thread starter
- #333
I redid this tailgate 3 times, and finally got it right! Popped the glass and new Toyota gasket in early this morning.
No one will know time and frustration I had trying to get the bottom edge right. Not sure why I fixated on this because there were other details and imperfections I haven’t let bother me.
I separated the bottom edge to grind out the rust and prep/restore/neutralize the metal to insure it doesn’t rust back through for another 40years. After this, when I folded the bottom edge back over itself , the bottom edge was wavy. I skim coated it, went through the painting process , thinking it wasn’t that bad and a little body filler would take care of it. Couldn’t have been more wrong. I’d walk around the truck and the light would catch it. The bottom edge was had more waves than a Jeep “go topples day” at Daytona Beach.
Knowing I couldn’t unsee it, I pulled the tailgate off, referenced YouTube u on the process, ground it down and went to work with a body hammer along the edge. When I got to a point I felt pretty good, Same process again. Bondo, glazing putting, high build primer, and again the it wasn’t right.
I pulled the tailgate off for a third time and started the same process again. Working on it for a few weeks on and off, eventually realizing I need to try something different. I remembered something I saw on a random car show. They would use metal dowels at the bottom of doors to recreate the edge when front and rear doors wouldn’t line up. I figured I’d give it a shot in this situation.
What felt like a 1000 tack welds later, 1/8 round dowel for the win. Got the bottom edge I was after and gave it a little strength in the process. Hard to tell but the 1/8” lower edge helped tighten up the gaps.
Also digging through boxes of parts, I found the “License lamp Assembly” I splurged on way back when and have been sitting on it.
It has some cool stamping you can reference depending on what country your in and voltage. Europe is stamped on the other side. The others I’ve handled were so rusty I had never noticed it.
I separated the bottom edge to grind out the rust and prep/restore/neutralize the metal to insure it doesn’t rust back through for another 40years. After this, when I folded the bottom edge back over itself , the bottom edge was wavy. I skim coated it, went through the painting process , thinking it wasn’t that bad and a little body filler would take care of it. Couldn’t have been more wrong. I’d walk around the truck and the light would catch it. The bottom edge was had more waves than a Jeep “go topples day” at Daytona Beach.
Knowing I couldn’t unsee it, I pulled the tailgate off, referenced YouTube u on the process, ground it down and went to work with a body hammer along the edge. When I got to a point I felt pretty good, Same process again. Bondo, glazing putting, high build primer, and again the it wasn’t right.
I pulled the tailgate off for a third time and started the same process again. Working on it for a few weeks on and off, eventually realizing I need to try something different. I remembered something I saw on a random car show. They would use metal dowels at the bottom of doors to recreate the edge when front and rear doors wouldn’t line up. I figured I’d give it a shot in this situation.
What felt like a 1000 tack welds later, 1/8 round dowel for the win. Got the bottom edge I was after and gave it a little strength in the process. Hard to tell but the 1/8” lower edge helped tighten up the gaps.
Also digging through boxes of parts, I found the “License lamp Assembly” I splurged on way back when and have been sitting on it.
It has some cool stamping you can reference depending on what country your in and voltage. Europe is stamped on the other side. The others I’ve handled were so rusty I had never noticed it.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #334
We’ll Made it to Relic Run and back. Tinkered around with it until about 7pm when my buddy arrived. Dropped the wrenches, loaded it in the trailer and took off for Uwarrie in what ever state it was.
Saturday, I took it into Troy and put about 40 miles on it. I was able to open it up and get a feel for it. Handling is fantastic, it tracks straight, rebounds after one bounce hitting a bridge, and no weird vibes. This was the 3rd drive since September.
Few things I’ve Noticed,
Few updates. Before I left I Modified the stock bumper to tuck the winch. Ended up boxing the frame around the HF winch plate, I had tucked between the frame rails last year.
Monday I Stopped by the junk yard and grabbed a set of wiper arms off a 03Sequoia. Perfect fit with a set of 18” Blades.
Also went ahead and ordered those rear pads and lift gate struts.
Saturday, I took it into Troy and put about 40 miles on it. I was able to open it up and get a feel for it. Handling is fantastic, it tracks straight, rebounds after one bounce hitting a bridge, and no weird vibes. This was the 3rd drive since September.
Few things I’ve Noticed,
- There’s a slight miss at idle I’ve gotta track down but seems to disappear when I get in the powerband,
- the rear pads that were on the rear axle when it was pulled from the 80 series are in fact worn. Overall a success.
- Steering feels like it has air. “Almost like a “dead” spot in the pump when turning.
Few updates. Before I left I Modified the stock bumper to tuck the winch. Ended up boxing the frame around the HF winch plate, I had tucked between the frame rails last year.
Monday I Stopped by the junk yard and grabbed a set of wiper arms off a 03Sequoia. Perfect fit with a set of 18” Blades.
Also went ahead and ordered those rear pads and lift gate struts.
very cool seeing this truck at the Relic Run! Even smelled like fresh paint!
what was you welding setup for the floor and sheet metal repairs? I always blow through when I attempt that.
what was you welding setup for the floor and sheet metal repairs? I always blow through when I attempt that.
- Thread starter
- #336
Thanks! As far as welding I used a quality .023 wire from a welding shop. Also, clean metal. I kept messing with the welder early on but soon realized, quality wire and clean metal go further. You can keep the heat down, and the wire will pull in almost like solder. Practice, tack tack tack , more practice, tack tack tack
- Thread starter
- #337
Since Relic Run I'm about 250 miles in running errands around Huntsville. Updates from the last 10 days,
- Changed the rear 80 pads.
- New lift gate struts
- Sagging corner, switched my rear leafs, Removed the 63" overload leaf and installed a AAL for a 63" spring. Used new 63" springs but one spring doesn't have the same spring rate. Ordered a set of airbags for assistance.
- Fixed misfire, my #1 plug was arcing off the block. Found a crack in the plug. New plugs, wires, and adjusted the valves. Sounds like a sewing machine
Smooth throttle. - Found Local upholstery shop that does door panels to help me finish out my interior. I'm on his list. When he can get to me, i'll hear from him in a few weeks. Husband and wife team, Vietnam Vet, 40 top was being finished up. After chatting for a few min, a handshake sealed the deal.
- Thread starter
- #338
Decided to take a chance on a newer product to the market for 60/62.
Door panels from Orikawa. I couldn’t be more thrilled. Aluminum, powder coated, and included new window felt. The simplicity of them, tie into the theme of my 60 perfectly. Fit and finish was spot on. Well done Orikawa. I hope to can buy you a beer one day.
Door panels from Orikawa. I couldn’t be more thrilled. Aluminum, powder coated, and included new window felt. The simplicity of them, tie into the theme of my 60 perfectly. Fit and finish was spot on. Well done Orikawa. I hope to can buy you a beer one day.
- Thread starter
- #339
The 60 guys may find interest with the project I'm currently involved with....
Well, I cut the last of the rust from my truck. The back seat mounts.
A little back story... With my three girls, I kept holding off cutting out the rust bc I kept thinking how do I get 3, 3 point seatbelts in the back seat. I didn't just want to patch the panels. For the last year I kept staring at it thinking there has to be a better option.
Looking at all options, I came across a k5 Blazer forum where he had put a 3rd row from a Suburban. The 3 seat belts were built into the seat, Folded and tumbled, easily removable, and everyone has a set sitting in their garage It seems like.
This was the answer I’d been looking for. I picked up a set for $40 from a guy cleaning out a storage unit, 10 min from my house. Even better there are kits, People make to add them to Tahoes and Yukons that didn't come with the third row.
The seats need approx. 50" between the wheel wells. Perfect bc that will remove the rot I needed to rid. After some time with the cut off wheel, I opened up wheel wells, and the floor in front of the gas tank to have the seats tuck in nicely. Opening up the floor over the shocks will make it easy to tie the seat mounts into the frame.
After all the patches I've put in the floor whats a few more.
Well, I cut the last of the rust from my truck. The back seat mounts.
A little back story... With my three girls, I kept holding off cutting out the rust bc I kept thinking how do I get 3, 3 point seatbelts in the back seat. I didn't just want to patch the panels. For the last year I kept staring at it thinking there has to be a better option.
Looking at all options, I came across a k5 Blazer forum where he had put a 3rd row from a Suburban. The 3 seat belts were built into the seat, Folded and tumbled, easily removable, and everyone has a set sitting in their garage It seems like.
This was the answer I’d been looking for. I picked up a set for $40 from a guy cleaning out a storage unit, 10 min from my house. Even better there are kits, People make to add them to Tahoes and Yukons that didn't come with the third row.
The seats need approx. 50" between the wheel wells. Perfect bc that will remove the rot I needed to rid. After some time with the cut off wheel, I opened up wheel wells, and the floor in front of the gas tank to have the seats tuck in nicely. Opening up the floor over the shocks will make it easy to tie the seat mounts into the frame.
After all the patches I've put in the floor whats a few more.
Last edited:
Those are smoooove. What are the little square cutouts at the lower center area?
