@HRTROB can you give details of your android head unit? It looks great! Where did you get it, would you recommend it, etc?
(stole your pic from the 2008 Delete thread)
Wow. Looks fantastic.
Any chance you have a total cost parts figure?
Navigation Delete 07.2009 - 01.2012 (w Aftermarket Stereo & Amp Install)
- Thread starter alta
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Wow. Looks fantastic.
Any chance you have a total cost parts figure?
I think he will make money on the deal once he sells his old navigation unit and tv screen.
@HRTROB can you give details of your android head unit? It looks great! Where did you get it, would you recommend it, etc?
(stole your pic from the 2008 Delete thread)
It's really a hit or miss with these Chinese Android head units. I have four cars with Android radios and each has some kind of issue or "quirk" as Doug deMuro would call it.
In the 200 I have an Android 7.1 quad core 2GB RAM (PX3 unit) that I got from Amazon for $400. It was from a seller named SYGAV and fulfilled by Amazon. Luckily no problems with this unit so far except that it takes longer to connect to GPS than the other units that I have.
In my 80 and E46 I have Android 6.0, octa-core and 2GB RAM (PX5 units). Both from a company called XTRONS and also fulfilled by Amazon. The one in the 80 is a universal 2DIN while the E46 unit is made specifically for the E46. In the E46 unit it won't detect the external microphone and defaults to the built-in mic and the one in the 80, I did not bother to use an external mic. I have to talk really loud when I'm in those cars
The latest unit I bought is a newer Android 8.0 octa-core 4GB RAM model made for standard Toyota 200mm 2 DIN radios. It was also fulfilled by Amazon, around $290. No problems with the built-in mic, according to the wife I sound okay. The problem with this particular unit is bluetooth A2DP stutters when playing music from my phone while also tethering data from my phone. It might be an issue with my phone (although this never happens to my three other units) because when the radio is tethered to my wife's iphone 7 hotspot while playing bluetooth music from my iphone 6, there is no stuttering at all. I have two of these head units and the issue happens on both units. I'll try tethering wifi while steaming bluetooth from my wife's phone to comfirm if the issue is with my phone.
That said, all of the quirks are livable for me. I previously had Pioneer appradios on my three cars, and have experienced carplay on two rental cars during my 2,500 mile road trip in the US 2 months ago and I still prefer Android over those. I hated that the nav screen on them would disappear whenever you would open a different app on your phone, or the fact that I'm limited to using the Apple Maps app on Carplay (Waze is actually now supported, but you must be running the latest IOS. No way I am updating my old iphone 6 to be intentionally slowed down by Apple!). If you still want to get an Android head unit, make sure it has at least 2GB RAM. The octa core units are also slighty faster than the quad core.
Waze
Google Maps
Rear dashcam real-time view via Wifi (this particular dashcam can be set to display a mirrored image)
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- Thread starter
- #24
I intentionally stopped tracking the cost as the project progressed and the bill increased, but here are some rough numbers:
AC Controller, Hazard Switch & Clock ~$650
Repair wires ~$400-$500
Stereo, Amp, Speakers ~$2000
The repair wires are a silly expense that I couldn't find a way around. That said, @jerryb is very familiar with mouser and thinks they might have some alternative connectors. This would be a huge advancement! Currently he needs pics of the 3 repair wires mentioned in the first post of this thread. If anyone is interested in helping to move this forward, please post detailed pics or IM jerry or me.
Also, if anyone has a source with the connector cut sheets, I noticed my image of F-11 is missing the repair wire detail w/ dimensions. Please post that if available.
I can make the wires for f10 and g1 without a doubt. I cannot find a decent pic of f11, except this
half way down, small green thing
PRIUS ZVW30 VSC OFF開關製作 | | …生活與工作…
I think this is F10 YAZAKI Connectors Catalog
G1 housing I think is this, 1318774-1 TE Connectivity / AMP | Mouser
also pic below is it.
when I get home in a few days I'll look some more. I might just go order the three from toyota parts desk.
If anyone has these housings in their hands, pictures would be really helpful.
half way down, small green thing
PRIUS ZVW30 VSC OFF開關製作 | | …生活與工作…
I think this is F10 YAZAKI Connectors Catalog
G1 housing I think is this, 1318774-1 TE Connectivity / AMP | Mouser
also pic below is it.
when I get home in a few days I'll look some more. I might just go order the three from toyota parts desk.
If anyone has these housings in their hands, pictures would be really helpful.
I can get pictures from the EWD if you have a part # of the connectors. The G1 you are talking about may not be the same as my EWD
- Thread starter
- #28
Good stuff!
Could an adventurous soul with a wire cutter and soldering skills 'cut out' the repair wire and connector issue?
Aside from reversibility what would the downsides be?
Could an adventurous soul with a wire cutter and soldering skills 'cut out' the repair wire and connector issue?
Aside from reversibility what would the downsides be?
You can always go to the junkyard and look for matching connectors in any of the toyota and lexus models.
- Thread starter
- #31
At a minimum, you do need the connectors g1, F10 & F11, to plug into: the AC Controller, hazard switch and clock.
I tried to save money by borrowing both connectors and terminal ends from other deleted sources that would be abandoned: one of the amp plugs and the navigation module (brain behind the dash). While this approach could work, I screwed up by soldering the new connections too close to the terminal ends. This resulted in a delicate connection as the wires were compressed during dashboard reassembly. I ended up with unreliable connections that were tough to troubleshoot. The factory repair wires seem a bit more stout than the existing ends and the results were much much better... (or at least that's what I am telling myself to justify the extra $350). However, it isn't a bad path to try.
The only catch is to practice removing the terminal ends on a plug and end you don't need. Before I got the hang of it, I used too much force and buggered things up pretty good.
Those .64 are so small I never even tried too add another wire on the terminal. Or even an inch further back. By the time you get them out of the housing even with months of practice I think they just get too messed up. Personally, when I mess up a .64 connector's wires I just toss the connector and start again. Depending on how many wires I've already inserted.
The process I use is order the toyota connector (speaking about female end) IF available and then search for hours and find the same thing somewhere, AMP, TE connectivity, etc, that matches up on paper and picture wise and order those.
At the same time email the vendor and ask specifically which terminals go in that connector for 22 gauge wire. They can also point you to a cheaper crimper for 40$ or so that should be fine for .64, 1.0 etc. 22 gauge crosslink wire is about 6$ per 100'
Its a lot of work. If you can find an ebay person that makes wires for 5$ each, go that route instead. I am not one of those guys. I tried to find one that would make what I needed and didn't have any luck.
terminals for these listed above are about 10-15 cents, the female connectors are around 3-5$. Just a little bit less than toyota parts (if available) Male PCB mounts are 7-10$
The males.
Once you have the correct female from either toyota or mouser or any other place then you can usually just look up the data sheet on the female and somewhere on there will list the compatible male most of the time. For that matter the terminals will be listed also for a certain specific wire size. Sometimes that info is there and sometimes not.
Most of the males will be circuit board mounted and only available as such. 180° or 90° mount. With that you can make an adapter if you're shooting for a plug and play solution. I believe only the free hanging males will be out there to find if in fact they were free hanging in the vehicle.
Destroying a piece that the male is mounting on can help also and then compare with search examples and data sheets. On mouser you can also see what other people also purchased when buying what your looking at. Sometimes that helps also.
I don't have a 200 but I can help out if someone needs it. I still make harness sets for the 2003-2007, about 2 or 3 a month. As cheap as it looks for a 200 non nav swap- Seems to me like this is a no brainer.
I'll post the mouser part numbers for connector and terminal numbers for
90980-11911
90980-12552
82824-21030
when I find them. If someone already has done that post it up.
*what was said above about the passenger seatbelt yellow light. That started mid cycle 2006, Jan. Make sure to get the USA version, unless you know that the other country had the same yellow light. The airbag ECU will not complete the self checks without it.
The process I use is order the toyota connector (speaking about female end) IF available and then search for hours and find the same thing somewhere, AMP, TE connectivity, etc, that matches up on paper and picture wise and order those.
At the same time email the vendor and ask specifically which terminals go in that connector for 22 gauge wire. They can also point you to a cheaper crimper for 40$ or so that should be fine for .64, 1.0 etc. 22 gauge crosslink wire is about 6$ per 100'
Its a lot of work. If you can find an ebay person that makes wires for 5$ each, go that route instead. I am not one of those guys. I tried to find one that would make what I needed and didn't have any luck.
terminals for these listed above are about 10-15 cents, the female connectors are around 3-5$. Just a little bit less than toyota parts (if available) Male PCB mounts are 7-10$
The males.
Once you have the correct female from either toyota or mouser or any other place then you can usually just look up the data sheet on the female and somewhere on there will list the compatible male most of the time. For that matter the terminals will be listed also for a certain specific wire size. Sometimes that info is there and sometimes not.
Most of the males will be circuit board mounted and only available as such. 180° or 90° mount. With that you can make an adapter if you're shooting for a plug and play solution. I believe only the free hanging males will be out there to find if in fact they were free hanging in the vehicle.
Destroying a piece that the male is mounting on can help also and then compare with search examples and data sheets. On mouser you can also see what other people also purchased when buying what your looking at. Sometimes that helps also.
I don't have a 200 but I can help out if someone needs it. I still make harness sets for the 2003-2007, about 2 or 3 a month. As cheap as it looks for a 200 non nav swap- Seems to me like this is a no brainer.
I'll post the mouser part numbers for connector and terminal numbers for
90980-11911
90980-12552
82824-21030
when I find them. If someone already has done that post it up.
*what was said above about the passenger seatbelt yellow light. That started mid cycle 2006, Jan. Make sure to get the USA version, unless you know that the other country had the same yellow light. The airbag ECU will not complete the self checks without it.
If you're never planning ongoing back to OEM. I would just find another set of Toyota (or similar) M+F connectors with the same pin amount and use that. A trip to a junk yard would the best bet.
On another note, I think selling the OEM Navi might prove difficult. I don't see them being in very high demand for a low-ish volume vehicle like the 200. It's worth a shot though I suppose.
On another note, I think selling the OEM Navi might prove difficult. I don't see them being in very high demand for a low-ish volume vehicle like the 200. It's worth a shot though I suppose.
Awesome work! Makes me feel much more at ease if my factory unit ever dies. I’d love to upgrade the system, but fact is the JBL in my 14 could be better for sure, but satisfies my needs. Does the upgrade support use of the rear screen. Not sure I would last for more than an hour without PJ Masks going on in the back seat.
- Thread starter
- #35
I have not hooked up the rear TV yet, but I did provide the pinout on the Kenwood tab of the Pinout spreadsheet. While I would still in theory like to get it working, the truth is my boys haven't used the rear screen in any of our cars for years. Instead I use a cheap wireless network device (hotspot) hooked up to a solid state hard drive. The Wifi device creates a private network and the hard drive is filled with movies. That way they can use any computer or mobile device (ipad, phone, laptop) to watch whatever they want (each device can watch a different source or movie). This arrangement also puts them on the same network, so they can play multiplayer games with others in the car. By default, my setup doesn't connect to the internet (unless I use my phone's tether mode), but there are plenty of options that do if that is important to you.
I suspect it'd sell. I sold my OEM roof rack with crossbars for $600, and my running boards for about $350... and every US model comes with those
I'm keeping my foot, but the right price on a kidney is somewhere between "able to retire on a yacht" and "waking up in a bathtub full of ice"
My point was that if you're patient you probably could sell the factory Nav/audio unit for a surprising amount. I don't think you need to list it for $10 for it to sell... I suspect in fact that a factory system would easily sell for $500, possibly a lot more.
My navigation tv from my 2002 sold for 500 and my navigation disk player sold for over 100