Navigation Delete 07.2009 - 01.2012 (w Aftermarket Stereo & Amp Install) (1 Viewer)

[Squirrel]

Has anyone done any work on connecting this to a 2013+ cruiser? I like the idea of physical climate control buttons plus an aftermarket head unit. I have hopes that there will be an option to use carplay on the factory head unit at some point soon, but the resolution of the factory display isn't great. If anyone has started and has wiring diagrams (I have a 2014) or has started tracking down connecters, please send me a message.

Without trying to shop for parts the list for the swap looks like it's under $1500 plus the new head unit. That's within the realm of possibilities.

a couple things:
1) would the removal of the head unit negatively affect the instrument cluster display?. I think the only concern would be turn by turn navigation in the dash which doesn't concern me.

2) what about the left/right/front cameras? It's a bit of a gimmick to me, but I like the idea of retaining the display of the camera input. Perhaps an aftermarket video solution which will feed a head unit?

 

[M1911]

I think the front camera is very much not a gimmick. When off-road, I used it a lot in order to place the front tires.

 

[Rinat]

I was not able to run new wires to the door speakers because of the proprietary wiring channel. The wires run through a unique plastic channel that is very difficult to run additional thicker wires through. I was able to get a single pair through using a wire tape, but the deformation was too great so I pulled it out in favor of the factory wires. Using the factory wiring is not ideal, but given the tolerances of these vehicles, it was not a battle I was up for.

I haven't look to this section yet, but would like to ask how do you find correct pinout for speakers (wires from AMP location to speakers). I don't see it in your pinout. Shall i look to documentation or maybe it is obviously as soon as i look under the seat and behind door panels ?

 

[Squirrel]

Okay- this is going to get interesting. I pulled up a few part numbers and started looking for photos of the nav screen. The first image was in the 2008 nav delete thread. Searching the different part number for the 2013-2015 model years, the rear connectors for the Nav screen appear to have changed.

The good news (if there is any good news) is that there appears to be fewer pins connecting the nav unit in the 2013-2015 units compared to prior years. Looking at the pin-out for the AC Control, the Hazard Warning, and the Clock, there don't appear to be that many wires needed. However, I have a hard time believing that all the old wires connected to the Nav system weren't needed. The real question I suppose is what happened to those wires. If they're no longer connected to the nav screen, it may not be an easy swap for the 2013-2015.

 

[alta]

Has anyone done any work on connecting this to a 2013+ cruiser?

1) would the removal of the head unit negatively affect the instrument cluster display?. I think the only concern would be turn by turn navigation in the dash which doesn't concern me.

2) what about the left/right/front cameras? It's a bit of a gimmick to me, but I like the idea of retaining the display of the camera input. Perhaps an aftermarket video solution which will feed a head unit?

The camera should be easy as long as the head unit you choose supports multi camera inputs. I am using the factory backup camera though my head unit. My '10 LC doesn't have a 2nd factory camera but the HU does allow for a second source.

RE the instrument cluster, they are completely seperate or possibly there is a CAN link only, so I would bet you don't loose functionality. You can trace this pretty easily if you pony up for a day of TIS.

 

[alta]

the rear connectors for the Nav screen appear to have changed... it may not be an easy swap for the 2013-2015.

I pulled out my Haynes manual to see if I saw any major differences. There are many similarities, but I agree some things do appear to have changed. Unfortunately the diagrams I have aren't great, so ultimately not much help.

I think your first step, pulling pics from part numbers, is a good one. The next step should probably be to use TIS to figure out what connectors you are dealing with (exact part numbers), so you can begin to trace each pin. Using TIS, you can drill down using hyperlinks. This saves huge time and helped me better see the relationship between the parts.

 

[Squirrel]

The camera should be easy as long as the head unit you choose supports multi camera inputs. I am using the factory backup camera though my head unit. My '10 LC doesn't have a 2nd factory camera but the HU does allow for a second source.

RE the instrument cluster, they are completely seperate or possibly there is a CAN link only, so I would bet you don't loose functionality. You can trace this pretty easily if you pony up for a day of TIS.

thanks! Really appreciate you weighing in on this. That was my sense as well that they would be separate but we’ll see

I pulled out my Haynes manual to see if I saw any major differences. There are many similarities, but I agree some things do appear to have changed. Unfortunately the diagrams I have aren't great, so ultimately not much help.

I think your first step, pulling pics from part numbers, is a good one. The next step should probably be to use TIS to figure out what connectors you are dealing with (exact part numbers), so you can begin to trace each pin. Using TIS, you can drill down using hyperlinks. This saves huge time and helped me better see the relationship between the parts.

I agree that TIS is going to be the next step. I have a few things on my plate at the moment before I can dig into this project with that level of detail. Frankly, I was hoping to find more similarities between the 2014 and the 2010, but I expect there’s going to be more work to do. If anyone else wants to team up on this- please send me a message.

If the connectors have changed such that there are fewer connections, I’m hoping it might be easier to track down the parts to make a harness. I was a little surprised at the number of wires required on your pin-out diagram- it wasn’t as many as I expected.

 

[alta]

I haven't look to this section yet, but would like to ask how do you find correct pinout for speakers Shall i look to documentation or maybe it is obviously as soon as i look under the seat and behind door panels ?

The below is only necessary if you don't run new wire. I started running new wire, but it proved difficult, so I ended up reusing some of the factory speaker wiring. I used an Ohm meter to double check my assumptions and make sure each connector went to the location I expected. The only gotchas are that the mid/tweeters are wired in series, so the Ohm meter wont read after the first speakery. Also, you only want to reuse the first part of that run to your cross over and ideally run new wires from there.

The values for 9/07-1/12 vehicles can be found in the very first EWD attachement of this thread: EWD.TIS.AudioSystemWNav.2010.pdf. There are small changes from pre 9/07, 9/07-1/12 and then 1/12 +.

Pre 7/09 Trucks:
The 6-pin F2 plug is used for power and ground. Assuming you are running new power and ground, you can ignore these.
The 24-pin plug is used to communicate with the Nav unit. You can ignore these.
This leaves only the F3 and F4 plugs:

F3
7	Front #4 speaker	B	middle speaker
8	Front #4 speaker	W
1	LHF #1	K
5	LHF #1	V
2	RHF #1	X
6	RHF #1	L
F4
8	LHF No2,No3	B	in series
3	LHF No2,No3	W	in series
9	RHF No2,No3	B	in series
10	RHF No2,No3	W	in series
4	LHR	B
11	LHR	Y
5	RHR	R
12	RHR	W

7/09-1/12 Trucks:

F3
9	Front #4 speaker	B	middle speaker
3	Front #4 speaker	W
1	LHF #1	K
5	LHF #1	V
2	RHF #1	X
6	RHF #1	L
F4
3	LHF No2,No3	W	in series
8	LHF No2,No3	B	in series
10	RHF No2,No3	W	in series
9	RHF No2,No3	B	in series
4	LHR + tweet	W	in series
11	LHR + tweet	B	in series
12	RHR + tweet	B	in series
5	RHR + tweet	W	in series

 

[alta]

I was hoping to find more similarities between the 2014 and the 2010, but I expect there’s going to be more work to do. If anyone else wants to team up on this- please send me a message.

I love that you are taking on the 01/12+ vehicles. If someone can post or send me the TIS EWDs, I am happy to help.

 

[linuxgod]

I have wiring diagrams for the 08-11, 13-15, and 16-19 if anyone wants to try and figure out the differences.

I’m fairly sure some of the functionality is via CANbus. For instance in the 13+ to enable the front wiper de-icer you need to press a button on the climate screen. There is no direct wire to trigger that relay/timer.

 

[Rinat]

I have wiring diagrams for the 08-11, 13-15, and 16-19 if anyone wants to try and figure out the differences.

I’m fairly sure some of the functionality is via CANbus. For instance in the 13+ to enable the front wiper de-icer you need to press a button on the climate screen. There is no direct wire to trigger that relay/timer.

Thank you too, your diagrams and provided information were very helpful for me. It is almost "daily book" for me )))

 

[alta]

I took a look at the diagrams for a '14 today, and while there are location changes, I don't see any unexpected problems. @Squirrel is right, the Nav unit lost some connections (now only 3 and Toyota for '14 calls is a Multi-Display Assembly), but it looks like the "Multi-media Module Receiver Assembly" picked up the slack (5 more plugs). So luckily, I don't believe the changes will make much of a difference. And @linuxgod is right; the CANbus is used to communicate w the AC Amp, so that new connection will go from the new AC Control interface to the AC Amp. I had to do the same thing on the '10.

Multi-Display Assembly has:
F60 - 90980-12554
F63 - 90980-12596
F65 - 90980-12957
Multi-media Module Receiver Assembly has:
F58 - 90980-12964
F59 - 90980-12553
F61 - 90980-12972
F66 - 90980-12593
F67 - 90980-12916

* Note: remember, the letter+number designation (F60) denotes a combination of part number and location in the vehicle. An f66 from an 80 series is not the same, but if the 10-digit part number matches, then it is the same part.

 

[Squirrel]

@alta well- this isn't fun. I started looking at diagrams for the 2014 as well. A little birdie sent me a link... which isn't great because it means I'm spending time on this rather than what I should be spending my time on. I found different connectors, so I wonder what I missed. See the attached file.

I found the multi-display:

F79	90980-12554
F80	90980-12960
F83	90980-12593
F89	90980-12596

Receiver:

F77	90980-12964
F78	90980-12553
F82	90980-12957
F84	90980-12972
F86	90980-12916

On the display, F80, 83, and 83 are single pin connectors. I would have expected antennas, but they appear to be connected to the receiver not the display. I've found the connectors and I'm a neophyte reading the diagrams, but I can't yet figure out which connector the pins are referring to. However... maybe I have this wrong. I don't know.


Looking at the receiver, it appears that most of the same wires were just moved. We'll see what happens as I get into it. I looked at the 2014 wiring diagrams for the setup without the multi-display. The part numbers and pin outs match for the the clock and the Hazard Warning. I haven't tied everything together for the F10 connector, but it appears to be the same connections. I haven't found the LIN connection in the existing connectors yet but we'll see what happens.

On the multi-display, F79 looks like Mouser part number 571-1318917-1. I suspect F77 will be more challenging to find the other side of the connection.

The Cameras may be a challenge here. It appears that they're all wired through the Park Assist ECU and connected to the multi-display using a GVIF connection. A little GoogleFu shows that it's a 2 wire digital connection commonly used in automotive applications. The good news there, I suspect, is that the reverse lines are probably placed over the video in the ECU and simply displayed on the screen. It also means, I suspect, that the "view" button on the instrument panel will still work to control the cameras as it appears to be connected to the park assist ECU as well. The bad news is that I can't find a converter for the GVIF to RCA. Plenty of units out there to convert RCA to GVIF, but a quick google search hasn't found a converter to decode the GVIF signal for input into an after market head unit. I'll need to keep looking.

Edit: Need to start a new thread on the 2012+ units. More to come...

If I need to delete the attached diagram please let me know.

 

[alta]

I found different connectors, so I wonder what I missed.

You are reading your attached diagram correctly, but I think it is from a non-US spec truck. My info above matches all US-spec trucks w Nav for years '12-'15. The terminal count for the nav unit also seems to match your pic above. Perhaps the next step is for you to pull the Nav unit out of your truck and verify which is correct?

Page 46 of the attached wiring diagram, shows the connections I posted above.

Here are the connections for the Nav:

 

[alta]

... connected to the multi-display using a GVIF connection. I can't find a converter for the GVIF to RCA.

It is easy to splice in an RCA connector to attach to the new head unit. It is literally 2 wires for the RCA plug, but then you have to add power and ground. I mention below that the 12v should be dropped to 6v, but I read it wasn't necessary so I skipped that and haven't had an issue.

Rear Camera
CA+	Black	to red wire of harness (ACC)	NAVF47-3 (need 12v to 6v converter)
V-	White	F49-16	RCA - (male)
V+	Red	F49-5	RCA+ (male)
CGND		F49-17

 

[silverhorse]

Kudos to you sir, awesome work! @Squirr I have a 2013 as well and would love to get rid of the climate/ nav combo... I much prefer my 2016 sequoia seperate climate/nav controls to the 200....
I wonder if sequoia parts could be used to do a conversion?

 

[trs80]

I was thinking about starting to source some of the parts to try this on our 2013. Has anyone had luck finding
55900-60L40 (I think is mine) or even 55900-60L20 anywhere?

 

[alta]

Sadly, I am not finding any of the 4-zone controllers on Partsouq, ebay or general internet searches. But Partsouq does have a price listed, so maybe they are just temporarily out of stock? I do see L10 and L20 avail from US dealers, but in the $550 range and if "WINDSHIELD DEICER-WITHOUT" means what I think it means, you would be giving up valuable functionality.

Here is a summary page for Partsouq of various years (click/expand the 55900 section at the top to see all the sub-models). Seems they are only carrying dual zone units currently. Maybe someone could ping them and ask if they can get the L40.

I tried L40 on an Australian Toyota site and it said that import to USA was not available, so non-US shops could still be a potential avenue.

 

[linuxgod]

“The good news there, I suspect, is that the reverse lines are probably placed over the video in the ECU and simply displayed on the screen.”

correct. If you disconnect the Battery then the vgsr system has to recalibrate and half the lines go away (the ones that turn) until it does. They are overlaid by one of the ecus

 

[Hoot23]

Sorry to go a little off topic and don't want to mess up your thread. This is a bit outside my wheel house. My factory amp died. As much as I'd love to change out my whole system my discretionary funds are tied up in other more pressing projects. The factory amp replacement is way more expensive than I'd like to pay. Would it be easy to just change out the factory amp to an aftermarket more economical one without too much trouble?