My Turbo manifold for FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

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Guys,

I have A442F auto tranny with extreme valve body install, so i guess my tranny will be strong enough. One of main reason that i didn't do the equal length style manifold is because that i want keep the oe filter and to position the turbo under the manifold instead of Dusty's style which is above the manifold. It looks there are alot of space but it really isn't, just look at how close the compressor housing to the oe filter. another reason is that i need this manifold to be super strong for upcoming off-road event and i am sure don't want it crack in middle of desert.

My next version of manifold shall do much better since i can build a jig to hold this manifold and build another one base on the jig. It is really difficult to work at manifold inside the engine bay. I am sure Dusty knew about it better than i do.

Another issue is that hx35 use divided T3 flange for the pulses inlet design, the log manifold simply didn't provide that. my friend told me it will spool much slower without divided manifold......anyway, done is done, will put this into my next version idea.

my turbo expert friend told me that i also need to weld a support beam on the turbo flange and bolt it on the head. also rebuild the turbine support stand.

These tube are push into the flange and weld at both side, so it shall be strong like hell. I was worry about the tube extension, therefore weld a vertical support on top of it.

The diesel turbo was choose due to its availability and price. other turbo, like T61 chinese copy are also available at good price. but i can't really put my finger on it and hope it will last. I did great research on HX35 before i buy this turbo. One guy with un-intercooler v8 mustang was able to push it to 320hp at wheel. I am only planning to do 300hp, and the wastegate was setup to run at 8psi only, so this turbo shall be okay. regarding the oil problem i will definitely look into it and keep everyone on latest update.

Hopefully, this thing will work.!!

and Karl, If i this turbo project work out good, i may ask exhaust shop to make more of it for people who want it.


Tony
 
just pushing your buttons lx. I love your truck
Corky bell comments in his book that thick cast turbos (not needing to be thin stainless to be elaborate and mandrel) are more robust. But those thin stainless jobs are efficient at holding in the heat and potentially can make more power.

that cummins turbo is no animal. according to turbo map is is not a big turbo. remember that the 5.9l cum motor is an oil burner and doesn't spool up and thus flow near the air a gas motor does. probably work just fine. we Probably will know within a month.
 
What's that blingy purple thingy for?
 
It needs some mud splattered on it, it hurts my eyes......:hillbilly:
 
Pardon my ignorance - is a wastegate simply a valve with a spring rated for the amount of boost? So, basically when the boost exceeds the setpoint, the spring will compress and let out the exhaust out of the manifold.
 
Pardon my ignorance - is a wastegate simply a valve with a spring rated for the amount of boost? So, basically when the boost exceeds the setpoint, the spring will compress and let out the exhaust out of the manifold.
Basically, yes. You can run it with a pre-calibrated spring that will crack at a set level, or hook a boost controller up to it between manifold vacuum and the wastegate vac line to keep any pressure from going to the spring until a set pressure... this way you can run higher boost than the spring in the wastegate. There is a problem though, if your wastegate can't flow enough it'll cause boost creeping which generally is bad since you aren't tuned for higher boost (and other things caused by this, namely heat) than you anticipated.
 
where does one actually purchase that spidy JDM manifold? and how much is it?
I've seen it posted a couple times and no answers to that.
 
Question, for you guys with custom made turbo manifold why dont you make good one, mandrel bent U-tube and better flow instead of (like the 2nd pic).You guys know how to weld and why don't you make good one?

Pic 1 - JDM Turbo Manifold.

P.S: Of courser the mandrel bent U-pipe cost more money.

1.5" NPS Schedule 10 pipe fittings in 304 are easy and cheap both to procure and weld with prices being ~$7 for a 90 Ell and ~$17 for a Tee.
 

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