Builds My turbo build...FINALLY! (1 Viewer)

[landtank]

I actually didn't buy the kit, I got the parts individually from ARP. You might call ARP tech support and talk with one of those guys.

As for cutting them down, you need to trim the top of the stud where the hex socket is. This is the part where the nut threads onto them.

If you talk with ARP, you want a stud with a total length of 5.0"

 

[Bruneti]

So I spoke with Al at ARP today. After our conversation, I'm still not sure why Guzzla had problems with his headstud kit.

Here's what I DO know:
* 209-4302 is the standard Opel kit (edit: I originally had the part# here for the 4cyl kit with only 10 studs)
* 209-4702 is the undercut Opel kit
* Both kits have M11 x 1.25 studs that are 5.0" long
* Both kits have 1.0" of thread length on each end of the stud, therefore the unthreaded sections are also the same length and in the same location on the stud.
* I sent a PM to clownmidget to see if he installed his 209-4702 kit that he purchased from CNC Motorsports earlier in this thread.
* I sent a PM to guzzla to see if he has any further insight as to what might have been wrong.

Rick, I apologize if this is taking your awesome turbo-build thread off-topic a bit. I'm just hoping to figure this all out quickly for my HG replacement. I can start a new thread if you like, but felt it was somewhat relevant to keep this tech here in the thread that originated it. I can also appreciate that you have something that already works and are past this in your build. Let me know if you want this in a new thread.

 

[landtank]

might as well leave it here it's all good.

If I had to guess Guzzla got a kit that was returned with the wrong hardware in it and never inspected completely and sent back out.

 

[concretejungle]

I called up ARP and spoke with a tech today about this issue.

Told him what i was doing, what others have done and the research and then rattled off some part numbers from this thread.

He ensured me that the Vauxhall Opel 2.5 L (16 studs)
ARP Part No. 209-4702 ARP direct list: $236.11 was in fact 5" long with the proper shank. He said if the other kit that was mentioned and returned was incorrect it had to be a packaging or shipping error.

I was also surprised that the ARP tech guy was going to sell me direct but gave me a local distributor phone number and said maybe you can get it cheaper there. So i called and sure did. Ended up getting the kit shipped with tax for $206!!

I will verify everything as soon as it gets in.

 

[landtank]

I'd like nothing more for ARP to provide a 1FZ-FE kit for us. But I'm sure it would take a lot of talking and begging for that to happen which I don't have time for.

In case they see this

We need exactly what is in the Open kit just with studs that have a total length of 4.75"

 

[Bruneti]

Concretejungle,

Good info. A packaging or shipping error does seem like the most likely scenario at this point.

 

[addicted56]

Been about 6 weeks. Hopefully you have been able to make some good progress over the holidays.

 

[yamapro]

Although I am fairly new to the sc and turbo settups on the Cruisers I wanted to give you guys a site that I have purchased lots of Intercoolers from at very reasonable prices. Air to Water Intercooler I have been a Pro Watercross racer for 15 years and have raced for 3 factory teams including currently being on a Factory Kawasaki backed team. We have been building supercharged and Turbo 1500 to 1800CC engines that have outputs of 400+HP. I was getting tired of blowing the cores on intercoolers and purchasing direct from vortech was very expensive so I tried these guys and its a very reasonable price for a good product. I was using water to air but these guys do have air to air. BTW I have no affiliation I just like to save money and have had good experiences I thought I would share.

 

[concretejungle]

Thanks for the link yamapro!

I would like to ask the question, is there really enough improvement of a water/air intercooler vs. an air/air intercooler to justify the extra plumbing of the water/air?

 

[yamapro]

well I am coming from watercraft where you are already using an open loop water system to cool the engine so just a few extra fittings there and also we lack the extra airflow under the hood or seat actually so from what I have seen this is also a problem on the 80 with the lack of room under the hood and availability of a solid appealing hood scoop. I just thought I would throw the option out there. But to answer your question yes they work very well on our applications the only problem we have is the violence of our craft and the corrosion of salt water which are not problems in the world of 80's

 

[concretejungle]

the only problem we have is the violence of our craft and the corrosion of salt water which are not problems in the world of 80's

Haha, you have not wheeled with Landtank in the northeast with all the salt!!

Thanks for the link and the reply!

 

[yamapro]

LOL, I guess not.... Im tropical Peoples, all heat and humidity here compared to the North. Just hope it helps.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

That's a great link for the water to air coolers and all the other parts you could need. There are lots of options in size and configuration on there too to make custom set ups very straight forward.

I have used both air/air and air/water on many performance cars. I have not seen a down side to the air/water setups. A lot of people like the Air/Air for the look of a big intercooler hanging in the front of there car, I prefer form over function.

One benefit as mentioned in here already is slow speed cooling with the air/water setup. With an Air/air you still get some cooling but not the same as you would running down the hwy at 60mph. The difference in intercooler piping length also makes Air/water a no brainier for me in a 80 as well.

Looking forward to seeing this thing on the road and some data we can use.

 

[landtank]

unfortunately it has been back burnered for a little bit. I need to design a common storage tank for the water system and the truck is now snowed in with the resent 24" we got.

ï know people are anxious to see this finished but custom designing and engineering parts takes time and MONEY. I need to balance things accordingly while still having fun with the hobby. If I'm at a pause it's likely do to the fact that I need to work things out to a point were I'm comfortable to continue. I honestly felt that once I got the manifold designed, machined and fitted it would have been a slam dunk. But then my OCD let me know that there was still things to work out.

The truck is scheduled for a cross country trip in July, it best damn well be finished by then!

As far as water/air verses air/air it comes down to what you want to compromise on. There are advantages to both as well as disadvantages to both. A lot comes from what your design goals are and the inherent design of you system.

For me the packaging of the system was nice as well as how I could integrate it to the stock MAF setup.

But who knows what will happen once spark is applied to fuel.

 

[concretejungle]

I agree on packaging. I must say that i'm more of a function over beauty. I can see now after thinking and reading that the water/air would be a superior system especially if off road where air flow is minimal.

I'm also aiming for the trip out west!

 

[landtank]

I'm also aiming for the trip out west!

excellent to hear Alex. I would really enjoy your company on that adventure!

 

[addicted56]

How about the one month update.

 

[landtank]

out with the old

 

[cruiserdan]

Sweet.

I need to stop by for ribs and a look-see.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Very cool