Builds My turbo build...FINALLY! (1 Viewer)

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in another thread it was asked about intercooling and the poster mentioned following my lead.

I thought I'd take a couple of pics to give everyone what my intended lay out will be.

The pics of the engine bay is of a truck that I'm working on and then the pics of the motor are on a stand.

You'll need to use a little imagination but I think you'll get the idea.

I'm intending a blow threw MAF and that will go after the intercooler and in front of the throttle body.

The BOV will be pre-intercooler and pre-MAF so it will vent to atmosphere eliminating some of the normal plumbing do to recirculating the air if it was post MAF.
turbo 001.jpg
turbo 002.jpg
 
I'm intending a blow threw MAF and that will go after the intercooler and in front of the throttle body.

The BOV will be pre-intercooler and pre-MAF so it will vent to atmosphere eliminating some of the normal plumbing do to recirculating the air if it was post MAF.

Hi Rick,

I moved my MAF as per the convo on the other thread, looks neat too.

BOV - I'm fitting mine after I get everything running, but I'm going recirculating not venting. Extra plumbing is only a hose back into the cold side. Any other reasons apart from plumbing why you're going vent?

Oh, that new engine is lookng a bit tatty. I'll take the cam cover and the heat shield off your hands. NOW!

OK - looking good Rick - great work

:cheers:

Out to watch the rubgy now - Wales vs. Fiji
 
Its pretty clear to me that your one of those "if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" guys. Nice work. Enviable in fact.

Karl
 
YAHOO.
 
keep it going Rick. looking good. i see why your setup can vent to atmosphere-your air has not yet been accounted for my the MAF sensor.

having ran 10lbs boost for well over a year now i have no fear. i removed all of my monitoring stuff before the Dusy trip this past fall : no boost guage, no egt guage, no oil temp guage, no narrow band. they were cluttering up my wheeling view. i took off the drivers side mirror too.

i think the aftermarket stud idea is noble but my oe yota head studs are holding well.
 
Hi Rick,

I moved my MAF as per the convo on the other thread, looks neat too.

BOV - I'm fitting mine after I get everything running, but I'm going recirculating not venting. Extra plumbing is only a hose back into the cold side. Any other reasons apart from plumbing why you're going vent?

Oh, that new engine is lookng a bit tatty. I'll take the cam cover and the heat shield off your hands. NOW!

OK - looking good Rick - great work

:cheers:

Out to watch the rubgy now - Wales vs. Fiji

the only reason to recirculate the BOV is if the BOV is down stream of the MAF sensor.

That's because if it was to open and vent directly to atmosphere the MAF sensor would continue to see a large amount air flow even though the engine was only consuming a little.

Having the BOV up stream of the MAF allows you to vent to atmosphere and the MAF sensor still sees the correct air flow according to engine consumption.

Recirculating the BOV on your setup would only add cost and work and possibly lesson it's effectiveness as the plumbing on the output side of the BOV will add restriction.
 
landtank... loving this thread and all the progress you've made... I'm actually interested in one of your manifolds to do my own setup, just not on the priority lest just yet.

I hate to be one of those newbs who hasn't been around a while and give advice to someone who obviously knows his stuff... so this is just an FYI. Having a MAF so close to the throttle body can be troublesome for part and even full throttle tuning. The butterfly can cause a turbulent air pattern just before the throttle plate that can propagate downstream to your MAF, throwing off readings and making the tune inconsistent. I speak from experience, not on Land Cruisers, but on a number of Nissans and Mitsu's... not trying to tell you you're doing it wrong, just lending some advice. If you start having problems at tuning time, I'd look there first.
 
something is really wrong then. The studs I got where a total length of 5.0". The Supra studs are 4.5" in total length.

Now when I installed the Supra studs to where the shoulder contacted the block there wasn't enough thread on top to protrude through the nut. This has been observed by many members.

So a half inch longer stud should still allow the nuts to seat fully.

I think you need to do a little more investigating to figure out where the problem is. Others have ordered and used the Opel kit with out doing anything more than trimming two studs for the front two locations under the cam gears.

It sounds like you got studs that were 5.5" long.

This is all true and confusing at the same time since I ordered and received the exact same part number as quoted here. I'll let you know how I go with the Supra kit and post up some pics.

By the way, I like your intercooler set-up, that's what I have ordered. I'm using the 500hp Plazmaman kit, where did you get yours from?
 
landtank... loving this thread and all the progress you've made... I'm actually interested in one of your manifolds to do my own setup, just not on the priority lest just yet.

I hate to be one of those newbs who hasn't been around a while and give advice to someone who obviously knows his stuff... so this is just an FYI. Having a MAF so close to the throttle body can be troublesome for part and even full throttle tuning. The butterfly can cause a turbulent air pattern just before the throttle plate that can propagate downstream to your MAF, throwing off readings and making the tune inconsistent. I speak from experience, not on Land Cruisers, but on a number of Nissans and Mitsu's... not trying to tell you you're doing it wrong, just lending some advice. If you start having problems at tuning time, I'd look there first.

yes that has crossed my mind a few times but you have to start somewhere.

I actually saw something like this with one of my MAF housings. With it detached from the air cleaner the truck won't run. Turbulence in the air rushing in and not being linear was screwing up the readings. I'll be using one of my MAF housings modified with hose ends on either end.

I'm sure there will be some troubleshooting once I turn the key.
 
i am actually in a signature line

what an honor

Dusty, when I read that in your turbo build I p1ssed myself laughing, it still makes me laugh.

Rick, Dusty, BOV...........

Of course!!! now that I've moved the MAF next to the throttle body, the BOV must vent to atmosphere:doh:

If I had a brain I would be dangerous!
 
Rick,

Is that a water cooled intercooler?
 
yes that has crossed my mind a few times but you have to start somewhere.

I actually saw something like this with one of my MAF housings. With it detached from the air cleaner the truck won't run. Turbulence in the air rushing in and not being linear was screwing up the readings. I'll be using one of my MAF housings modified with hose ends on either end.

I'm sure there will be some troubleshooting once I turn the key.

There always is!

Like I said, just wanted to be helpful... sometimes we can get so wrapped up in a project or details like making the IC piping as short as possible that comprimises are made unknowingly!

Best of luck, I can't wait to see the finished product!
 
There always is!

Like I said, just wanted to be helpful... sometimes we can get so wrapped up in a project or details like making the IC piping as short as possible that compromises are made unknowingly!

Best of luck, I can't wait to see the finished product!

I hear you. Luckily my funds have been slow in coming so I've had plenty of time to second guess myself. :hmm:

I took this approach as it is kind of modular at this point. I can rearrange and move things around to find what configuration works best without much trouble.

Thanks for the input
 
Once the valve cover was off you could see some build up on the low side of the cam lobes where the valves were on the loose side.
Nasty! Looks like this engine is begging for synthetic oil, that'll clean it up in no time.
 
Rick,
Can we get confirmation of exactly which ARP head stud kit you used? Can you check the box or order receipt? I bring this up because there are two ARP kits available for the Opel/Vauxhall model you specified: They are 209-4301 and 209-4702.
The 209-4301 appears to be the standard head stud kit. (edit: this part number should have been 209-4302 with 16 studs. The 209-4301 kit is for a 4cyl and only has 10 studs)
The 209-4702 has undercut studs, and was specified by others in this thread. It was also the kit that guzzla had problems with and returned.
I did not see where you posted a part number. Only other members posting it.

The confusion on which Opel kit to use may be why some people are running into problems. I'm buying a set in the week and doing a HG job the week before Christmas. I'd like to get confirmation on the correct kit. Also, as far as cutting the two studs-which end did you cut? The bottom (threaded into the block), or the top (protruding thru the nut)?
 
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Rick,
Can we get confirmation of exactly which ARP head stud kit you used? Can you check the box or order receipt? I bring this up because there are two ARP kits available for the Opel/Vauxhall model you specified: They are 209-4301 and 209-4702.
The 209-4301 appears to be the standard head stud kit.
The 209-4702 has undercut studs, and was specified by others in this thread. It was also the kit that guzzla had problems with and returned.
I did not see where you posted a part number. Only other members posting it.

The confusion on which Opel kit to use may be why some people are running into problems. I'm buying a set in the week and doing a HG job the week before Christmas. I'd like to get confirmation on the correct kit. Also, as far as cutting the two studs-which end did you cut? The bottom (threaded into the block), or the top (protruding thru the nut)?

:popcorn::wrench:
 

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