My SOA laundry list (1 Viewer)

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SOA actually happening! OLD: My SOA Laundry list

Ok, I've gone too long without wheeling. I'm gonna do it (finally). . .
. . . ok maybe it'll be done by summer.

I'm going to SOA my 60, I'm going to get the hardware from (http://proffittscruisers.com/suspension/soa.html), I don't plan to cut and turn, I plan on welding the brackets on at a 3 degree angle. I will be using stock springs, I'll add a leaf if needed but they don't look bad. I'm going to go with a high stear setup, I will get the arms from (http://www.4x4labs.com/products/steeringarms.html) and I'm not sure if I'm going to get the rods from them, I'll probably decide that when I look at my setup, I don't think they really need to be that tough, I'm more of a mudder/trail rider than a real rock crawler. For now I'm going to go with rubber brake lines, SS in the future when I recover from this : ) I want to gear it to 4.56 and not lower because when my 2f dies (its got 200k miles so I've got 50/100 left <shrug>) I'm looking at the diesels.
Right now though the engine is strong (according to the mechainic) and only leakes a little oil. Other than that, oh and the PS has a slow leak, the thing is strong.

Its getting a set of 35x12.5x15 Traxus Muds on Rock Crawler 97's 15x8 w/3.75 backspacing. I've already got a rear bumper (not complete but on and sturdy) and a front bumper half done in the garage. Still haven't gotten to working on side skirts/guards. Changed jobs from a steel shop to a group doctors office. . . and I haven't bought a welder yet. I'll have to have someone do the welding for the axles.
I know don't SOA but a 4-4.5" lift is about the same and most of the same work, but I don't plan on going higher than 35s and I won't go higher than stock springs.

Now on to the questions. . .
What am I forgeting (I'm sure theres a lot and know theres something)?

Its been a long time since I've heard anything about parabolic springs, any users still out there?

With the kit for the SOA they say cut into the frame and make new mounts for your front shackles, but can't I reversal, or get 1" shorter shackles to match the back?

Lots of here or theres on drivelines, will I need to extend (there's a local shop so its not a problem if I do)?



I will probably update questions when I can think of more.


Oh, hehe... almost forgot, if you want pics, let me know what where and how. I'm not much of a picture taker so LET ME KNOW! Also any measurements anything else LET ME KNOW! I'll do whatever you guys want . . . ok maybe that was a little extreme. I'll get the info you guys want if I'm doing it but I need to know what you want : )
 
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get rods from toyota dealer...SS in my honest opinion is overrated...4x4 labs is a great choice. 35's don't seem to big on a 60 and if your planning on ever going to bigger tires then 35's skip the 4.56's and go straight to 4.88's. i'd drive it around for a while with the stock gears and 35's and see how you feel then go from there on your gearing. my brothers 60 doesn't have lengthened driveshafts. Get new U-bolts for sure.. there a bitch to take off and its cheap insurance. nows a good time for new bushings as well... i'm not sure why they say to mount them one inch higher ( but probably to correct the castor) and i'm sure some people skip this. I think you might have trouble finding -1" shackles lol not to many people lower these trucks... but yes you could make your own shackles which is easy but would just be easier to mount them 1 inch further up


good luck with the build and post pics when your done.
 
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Thanks bandy rooster
I know the SS aren't needed, but they do look cool : )
I actually wanted to go with 34" tires but the price diffrence really doesn't make it worth it, so no I won't be going any higher. Yeah, thats a good point about the ubolts. I would have done it but it would have been annoying to take it apart and then remember I want new ones : /
I can see mounting the shackles higher for the offset, I just can't see needing to drill and weld into the frame to do it.
 

Fourrunner

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Shocks? Shock mounts? What year cruiser you SOAing? Makes a big difference on what you need to do on the driveshaft stuff. Mine is a late 85. I got a CV driveshaft from a minitruck, shortened my stock shaft and had a shop weld on the CV joint. The earlier FJ60's I think are really easy since they have a different crossmember/tranny/driveshaft and there is no driveshaft interference (someone correct me if I am wrong there, just what I read). I actually just finished notching my crossmember this weekend so my driveshaft doesn't hit it. Not sure if you will have to do it. Really depends on the year like I said. Any other questions?
 
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Fourrunner I figure I'll setup the mounts when I get the axles lined up, I have a couple of ideas (ranging from custom under spring mounts to axle weld on points).
I have a 85 cruiser, not sure if it is early or late model, I'll have to get under it when it stops raining and check. If I remember correctly when I was looking at it after I got it there wasn't anything in the way.

Thanks
Brian
 
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Ok, I've got some more questions.

Thanks to an old thread being dug up I didn't have to do as much research (https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=31066).
Shocks, it sounds like from the majority consensis that the BILSTEINs are the best way to go. I'm thinking based on what people have said so far that the 14" of travel ones are the best bet?

I'm kinda up in the air on this one. I'd love to go with 4x4 Labs histeer kit but I'm just not sure the work and money are worth it. Right now my other option is Marlin Crawler. I've talked with both companies and I like 4x4 Labs attitude better, I told them I had been recommended All Pro but they said don't bother its poor casting. They said if I didn't want to put the work into making theirs work, although it was the best option, that I should look into Marlins because they were quality as well. Marlin told me also that All Pro casting was weak but also that 4x4 Labs was weak and didn't really help with steering (I know otherwise, thanks to Woody and some others).

Marlin's $200 for arms, but they said I had to buy their kit (arms, rods, draglink) to work $429

4x4 Labs $300 for arms and if I wanted I could mod my rods to work, but because its a 60 I'd have to shave the oil pan or move the axle 2" forward. If I go with this option, I'm thinking the shaved Oil pan and I still have to talk to the shop doing the work or a drive line shop about shortening and lengthening the rods.

What have you guys done? I know theres quite a few SOA 60's out there.


<edit>Oh, and to answer the other question. Still not sure of the month but I know it is later half of 85 and it does have the longer transfer case so I will not need to do any modding or replacing of the tcase.</edit>
 
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OK 2, 3 weeks tops! I almost promise!
In the meantime, hehe, here's a look at the meat going under it : ) Oh and don't mind the test pilot >;)

swampertestpilot1.JPG

swampertestpilot2.JPG
 
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Hey Darkrealms,
Im glad that you posted this thread...Next fall im thinking of doing an SOA on my 62.
I know nothing of the SOA and how to do it, so Im looking forward to hearing and seeing the progress as you go along so I can learn from it too.
Thanks for posting those links....I stuck em in my bookmarks for later.

Good luck with the conversion, and shoot me some picks if you have some time.

Chicago
 
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CUTE....

Once again, another local making my 60 look short.

Let me know when you are looking for a fender, I might have a PS fend up for grabs.
 

Mace

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why not cut and turn???


Kurt does it cheap and you will like it in the future..


Sometimes it is better to build slower and correctly than quicker with cut corners..
 

bkfj40

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good, cheap, and quick...

pick two....

I'd vote for the cut'n'turn housing - and skip the shackle reversal...

bk
 
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quote: I told them I had been recommended All Pro but they said don't bother its poor casting. They said if I didn't want to put the work into making theirs work, although it was the best option, that I should look into Marlins because they were quality as well. Marlin told me also that All Pro casting was weak but also that 4x4 Labs was weak and didn't really help with steering (I know otherwise, thanks to Woody and some others

that funny that they tell you this,i've been runnin a allpro set up on my 60 for two years and have absolutly no problems.

do ya think they say this to sell ya thier stuff.

i also would like to hear opinions on allpros product...
 

Mace

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all of the hy steer systems currently available are quality units. They each have aspects that the makers feel makes them the "best". You cannot go wrong with any of them. Hy steer arms are a matter of choice, that is all. I personaly would not do the AP arms cause I do not like their buisness practices. But do not take that as Poor quality.

I am surprised that Marlin said anything bad about another manufacturer. That does not sound like him. I have never even heard of him saying anything bad about anyone.

Get whatever makes you happy. They will not fail unless you let the studs get loose...
 
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I have had Allpro arms and complete Hysteer setup on my truck since 99.....In fact they did the whole spring over and I have not had one problem....Granted I was the first hyster setup they ever did on a 60....so there was some learning required...but it turned out awsome...I couldn't be happier....but then again this was like 6 years ago...they may have changed...
 
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First off, I'll kill the fire on the going the cheap rout by not cutting and turning. The guy doing the work (Cruiser Parts, Grants Pass) has been doing cruisers for 15 years and some of the other shops I've asked don't have any problems with his work. I've seen one he did with out cut and turn TOY350's, He said for what I want, I don't need to.

As far as histeer companies go, I posted a while ago to get more opinions on it but just went with 4x4 Labs all up front steering arms because I hadn't heard anyone really complain about them and everyone said they take care of their customers. Luke also gave me a lot of advice and help.
With the other two I was looking at All Pro and Marlin I later found out they used to work together and sell each others parts but ended up splitting and now competing with similar products (too late already got the Labs arms). Another very helpfull and insightfull company to call is IronPigOffroad, they helped me and knew they would never get my business. They told me alot about the different histeer kits and also thought it was odd Marlin was badmouthing some other companies and that they do stock cruiser parts, I was told they had to order for cruisers but had everything else. I spoke with Stewart at Marlin.

I will have a full review with list of parts pics before and after (with tapes). If there are any special needs please let me know.


Is there something about cut and turn that I should be looking more closely?
 
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I've called around and no one seems to want to make or cary 24" rubber brake lines for a FJ60. Anyone have any suggestions on where to go to get or have made something like this?

I am still curious, is there something about cut and turn that I should be looking more closely?
 
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Darkrealms said:
I've called around and no one seems to want to make or cary 24" rubber brake lines for a FJ60. Anyone have any suggestions on where to go to get or have made something like this?

I am still curious, is there something about cut and turn that I should be looking more closely?


i ordered braided from precision brake, made to order.
link: http://www.precisionbrakescompany.com/brake-hoses.html
 

Mace

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The Cut and turn issue...


It works like this, if your front driveshaft is not long enough when you do a SOA and do not cut an turn during flex you have the potential to bind the driveshaft U joints.

Longer Front DS aleviates the need for a Cut N turn. However, even with a long enough driveshaft soemtimes the caster is not great enough for the rig to handle well. (1* vs 5* or so) this causes the truck to wander a lot more than you would expect.

I know we are not atalking about a sports car, but a well performed cut and turn is a VERY good idea to make the SO handle as well as possible, and to make sure the DS does not bind.

There are those that have gotten away with not doing a C-n-T But I would not be one of them.
 

cruiseroutfit

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Hey Darkrealms, I got your PM, but my computer locks up everytime I try to open it??? Try PM'ing me again or email please (kurt@cruiseroutfitters.com)

As for Cut/Turn... what Mace said :D
 
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Read this article if you haven't yet, it specifically discusses cut & turns....
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/soa/index.html

Use the Ford shock number to get 14" up front, part number @ that link again. You can run 14" in the rear but it is no good (you'll never get that flex anyway) and it will work worse than 12" in the rear. So... Run 12" travel in the rear. See the link posted about best shocks for a SOA wagon. Good info there...

I did not cut and turn my first SOA on my 60 and did on my 55 (twice - switched axles). I would never consider a SOA without one in my opinion. It is not so much the pinion angle (though that is a big deal) but more-so the caster angle. Bottom line is it will handle worse with out it. With it it will tract like a straight arrow particularly on the highway. It will probably be "OK" with out it but as you increase caster your pinion angle gets worse. I think every rig 5" or more lift should have a cut & turn SOA or SUA, in my humble opinion...
 

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