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My so-called tranny issue

Discussion in 'AZ- Copper State Cruisers' started by grrlscout89FJ62, Feb 21, 2007.

  1. grrlscout89FJ62

    grrlscout89FJ62

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    I'm moving this discussion over here, as to not clutter up the Wrenching Day thread any more.

    UPDATE: I just got off the phone with Rodney at Wholesale Automatics in Oz. Very nice, cool guy!

    Basically, he said that is was quite unlikely, though possible, that it was my torque converter, or even my tranny at all. He said that that behavior sounded more like an engine problem... anything from a simple tune up issue, to something electronic, or possibly the cat, something exhaust oriented.

    His recommendation, take it to a transmission shop for a full evaluation, as it doesn't seem as if Toyowest did a very thorough check (something about taking the sump off :confused: ), and probably didn't really know what was up, so just said it was the transmission.

    That's the next step for me!
     
  2. phxtlc

    phxtlc

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    OK, remind me. When you stomp the gas pedal the RPM's go up but the truck only goes 5mph, correct? If so it sounds like the tranny to me.

    Have you tried shifting the transfer case to see if that has any effect?
     
  3. inkpot

    inkpot SILVER Star

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    Howdy! It does sound like the cats or the brakes are binding up. Does the engine race like it is in Neutral, or does it feel like your trying to pull a city bus behind you?? If it runs ok cold, but gets worse as it warms up, it sounds like an engine problem. John
     
  4. grrlscout89FJ62

    grrlscout89FJ62

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    IIRC, yes. But I'll do some experiments this evening...

    ... including that.
     
  5. cruiser88

    cruiser88

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    was it you that was having brake trouble a month or so ago:confused:
     
  6. grrlscout89FJ62

    grrlscout89FJ62

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    Hmmm... we were goofin around with the brake pedal the day before. All we did was replace the pedal spring, and didn't mess with the pedal height adjuster at all, but ya never know.:confused:

    We also found that the small plate underneath the pedal, that the brake light switch it supposed to make contact with is gone. The previous owner had duct taped in a metal slug in its place. This apparenly wore out, and my brake lights would get stuck "on" from time to time. We just re-taped it. Now they work fine.

    That is EXACTLY what it feels like! And yes it runs better at first, and then things go downhill rapidly as I drive.
     
  7. grrlscout89FJ62

    grrlscout89FJ62

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    That was me! I had the rotors, pads, and shoes replaced about 2 weeks ago.
     
  8. cruiser88

    cruiser88

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    did they use locktite on the caliper bolts:confused: if not its really common for a bolt to back out and jam s*** to keep it from moving.there should be to bolts per caliper.:beer:
     
  9. -Spike-

    -Spike-

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    I've seen incorrect engine timing do something similar.

    -Spike
     
  10. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

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    OK, is it the race or bus?:D
     
  11. grrlscout89FJ62

    grrlscout89FJ62

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    bus! :doh:
     
  12. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

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    OK, towing the bus, there are a few ways that can go. Does it roll free, if you put the transfer in neutral you should be able to move, push it relatively easily? If so try pumping the brakes a few times, apply them hard like a panic stop a dozen times or so and it should still roll easily.

    If your comfortable driving it, get it rolling, then stop with the brakes a few times until it starts to act up. When you stop and let off the brakes, does it start creep forward like normal or does it feel like the brakes are still on?
     
  13. grrlscout89FJ62

    grrlscout89FJ62

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    Hey Kevin, thanks for the testing guidance! I'll give it a go this evening.

    What am I testing for -- brake issues?
     
  14. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

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    Yep, any drivetrain bind, brakes, wheel bearings, etc. If it feels like your dragging an anchor and it gets heavier the longer you drive, it's most of the time ether brakes, it gets tighter with each brake application or a bearing, it gets tighter with heat, load the longer you drive the tighter it gets. In ether scenario when it's allowed to rest it will free up, when you start to drive again it tightens up, most of the time trannys wont act that way.
     
  15. cruiser88

    cruiser88

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    hmm i wonder when the rotor was removed was there bearings changed,and if there was was the racers changed to:confused:
     
  16. Living in the Past

    Living in the Past SILVER Star

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    When changing the rotors on a FJ62 you have to pull the hubs which means at the very least they would have to adjust the pre load on the bearings. So even if they weren't replaced they were removed from the spindle, reinstalled and adjusted.

    John
     
  17. grrlscout89FJ62

    grrlscout89FJ62

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    OK this is what happened...

    I left work early, and we tinkered around with the brake pedal some more. GF backed the brake light switch up that we had adjusted on Sunday. She said all kinds of wires were spliced in (probably for the alarm), and generally it was a mess. During this process my brake lights got disconnected all together. :doh:

    We then drove it to Thiele's in Chandler, during rush hour. Nothing happened and it drove just fine. So it must've been related to the brake pedal.

    I dropped it off, and they'll be inspecting it for some other things that need working on.

    Crazy that that other dude wanted me to pay $2500 for a tranny and install, when it was 3 minute free fix. :rolleyes: And I had even told him that we were fooling with the brakes and the brake pedal, and to look there first. :mad:
     
  18. Tools R Us

    Tools R Us

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    Good deal!:cheers:

    The brake peddle must return all of the way, if not it will build pressure in the system. When the peddle is pushed the pistons in the master cylinder force fluid out to activate the brakes. When released the pistons return, as the do they uncover some ports, the last one is a pressure bleed off port. This port allows any leftover system pressure to vent to the reservoir, if it's blocked each time the brakes are pressed more pressure is added to the system, causing the brakes to drag. The seals aren't perfect, so if it's allowed to sit the pressure will leak, bleed off, when used the process starts again.

    I am sure the shop would have fixed, adjusted that right after the new tranny was in! I am surprised they didn't catch it, pretty basic stuff for a mechanic, covered in brakes 101!:mad: :flipoff2:
     
  19. grrlscout89FJ62

    grrlscout89FJ62

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    :bounce: :beer: Thank you so much for all your assistance!! :cheers: :bounce2:
     
  20. DSRTRDR

    DSRTRDR I can mangle anything ... SILVER Star

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