My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread (9 Viewers)

[Arya Ebrahimi]

This may be a stupid question, but how do you plan to remove the trailer from the truck when it is loaded if the jack goes in the same hole as the lunette ring?

Are you going to add another place on the side so that you can bring the jack along and jack from the side of the draw bar as well?

 

[REZARF]

Check out post #149... I did add a side jack holder.

The plug is for storing the trailer, I might have to use a jackstand to hold it up while installing the plug. But the space I save, by making this thing removable is well worth the effort of having to mess around with it at first.

I did think about that... after the fact, I guess it is one of the bummers of doing it yourself. I have thought about welding that plug to the frame just to the side of the main receiver tube.

I was hoping no one would catch it!

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Ah yes, makes perfect sense now. Sorry, was having a brain failure I think ;p

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

I was sitting here thinking(dangerous I know) and I was wondering if perhaps you could cut a hole through the second crossmember where the draw arm is, so that you could slide the drawbar in all the way to the 3rd crossmember. That would allow you to shorten it significantly(for storage, etc), especially if it doesn't bottom out on the second crossmember already.

Perhaps a design idea for round 2 if nothing else?

 

[REZARF]

Arya-

There are already a bunch of things I would do different. At this point opening the crossmember isn't an option. Thanks for helping think through things though

 

[REZARF]

Here is the box I was able to fab up yesterday. Really simple, but to make it square and level and not warp all takes time. This was a few hours of work to cut the 45s, clean them up, prep them for welding, fit them together, get them square and them tack them up.

It came out great, this box will house all kinds of stuff:

12v Battery
Battery Charger
Fuse panel
12v outlets
Charger outlet
Wiring junction box
12v water pump
Shower
Water manifold

Yikes! Didn't realize how many things are going in there until I got it all together. Just kidding. There will be plenty of room.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Arya-

There are already a bunch of things I would do different. At this point opening the crossmember isn't an option. Thanks for helping think through things though

That's the nature of doing your R&D and product development. I deal with it constantly on my mini-truck build.

The box looks great! Can't wait to see this thing completed

 

[Degnol]

So, Drew, are you going to skin it on the inside of the framework or the outside? Seems like from your drawings you are going to put the sheetmetal on the inside of the skeleton?

Ed

 

[REZARF]

A little of both. Once I get the front box done, it will make more sense, but mostly I will skin the inside.

Gotta' trust me on this one.

Drew

 

[J-man]

hey rezarf, your build looks sweet. A serious trail trailer. What are you planning to do for the sides? Sheet metal, diamond plate? What about steps infront of the tires intregrated with fenders? sorry if its been answered already. Cant wait to see yours done. I may have to slow down production to get ideas . j/k

edit: so much for reading...someone just asked ahead of me.. doh!!

Are you going to powdercoat the whole thing, or spray can, or ...?

 

[REZARF]

hey rezarf, your build looks sweet. A serious trail trailer. What are you planning to do for the sides? Sheet metal, diamond plate? What about steps infront of the tires intregrated with fenders? sorry if its been answered already. Cant wait to see yours done. I may have to slow down production to get ideas . j/k

edit: so much for reading...someone just asked ahead of me.. doh!!

Are you going to powdercoat the whole thing, or spray can, or ...?

J-man-

I am going to do a few things with the sides. I hope to bend up some tube soon for the fenders. They will be 1.5" tubing with sheet metal to finish them off. Nothing on the market will cover the entire tire and I don't want the trailer to flick muddy boggers onto everything. Once the fenders are in place I will be making area to carry fuel on the outside of the trailer. Propane behind the tires, gas in front. The gas cans will be removeable so I can carry other supplies as well, with small shelf like racks that will double as sliders... clear as mud?

Sheet metal for the sides. I haven't decided if I am going to use plywood on the floor for wieght savings and $ reasons... but I am in the mindset of doing this only once and doing it right.

I will be rattle canning this when I am done... I may use a spray gun, but I am not looking for a show room finish for sure. Sherwin Williams will put custom colors into rattle cans for you for about 10/can... so I may go that route.

Thanks for the compliments.

Rezarf <><

 

[Degnol]

Drew, I have given some thought to going to a salvage yard and cutting the bed section out of a pickup then trimming to fit my trailer. I could borrow a gas wrench or maybe a battery powered SawZall. You need the ribs for anti-oil canning and that seems like the cheapest thing that fits the bill.

Ed

BTW, what wall thickness and size of square tube did you use for the slide-in/out tongue?

 

[REZARF]

I could borrow a gas wrench or maybe a battery powered SawZall. You need the ribs for anti-oil canning and that seems like the cheapest thing that fits the bill.

Ed

BTW, what wall thickness and size of square tube did you use for the slide-in/out tongue?

You need the ribs if you don't have supported floor which I do. I will add a few key braces to sure up the floor and then lay down a sheet of 14 ga.

As for the tubing for the tongue, the main chassis tube is 3x3x.25" and the sliding draw bar is 2.5x2.5x.25... this gives me a "receiver at the ball end if I want to upgrade to a lock-n-roll later.

HTH

 

[Degnol]

Just ordered some steel from the local welding shop and was advised that I should order 2x2x 1/4 for the extendable tongue and 2 1/2x 2 1/2 x 3/16 for the frame member that the tongue will fit into. Tolerances are too close to use 1/4 wall thickness


Ed

 

[RHINO]

i used reciever tube. but for the record 3/16 is plenty stout for the trailer piece,, heck the rest of my whole trailer frame is 2x2x.120.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Just ordered some steel from the local welding shop and was advised that I should order 2x2x 1/4 for the extendable tongue and 2 1/2x 2 1/2 x 3/16 for the frame member that the tongue will fit into. Tolerances are too close to use 1/4 wall thickness


Ed

Bologna, the problem is that there is a seam on the inside of the 2.5x2.5 and the 2x2 will not fit because of it. HOWEVER, if you order "flash-out" tubing or "trailer hitch reciever" tubing the flash is not there and 2x2 fits just fine.

 

[REZARF]

Gotta be honest, have them give it a shot, my guys test fit it for me and it worked great. I wouldn't put that much slack in the tubes.

After much work the first few times, the tubes are now at home with one another.

 

[J-man]

i used 2" od reciver tube x 3/16 for my trailer tounge and its super strong for my build. seems2.5" would be real overkill and unnecessary weight.

 

[REZARF]

i used 2" od reciver tube x 3/16 for my trailer tounge and its super strong for my build. seems2.5" would be real overkill and unnecessary weight.

You are right, but by making my drawarm the size of a receiver hitch, I now have a lot of options like the lock-n-roll and swaping a ball to a pintle.

 

[J-man]

You are right, but by making my drawarm the size of a receiver hitch, I now have a lot of options like the lock-n-roll and swaping a ball to a pintle.

ahh, forgot about that. Good idea. Also, are you using a wind up/down retractable wheel for the tounge to be able to move the trailer around in your garage? if so, which one are you going to use?