nice build I have an old trailer that was given to me that I hope to be able to modify in some mway...keep the build and idea coming!
My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter REZARF
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- Thread starter
- #122
Holding the front up with the Bulldog jack gave me an idea...
I am going to make a short, 6in or so, sleeve that will fit inside the main draw-bar location and be able to be pinned with a hitch pin, but it will also have a round mount welded to the front edge of the sleeve. Then I can remove the sliding draw-bar and stuff the sleeve in and prop the trailer up with it, essentially shortening the trailer by nearly 3 feet for storage... we'll see!
Here is the little item I fabbed up...
- Thread starter
- #123
Worked like a charm! I made the sleeve out of the draw arm material (2.5x2.5x.25"). I inserted the tube about 2" into the sleeve, then I put a bead on the inside and layed it up thick on the outside to fill all the holes in.
I think it came out nice and it works great! As a side benifit, with a reciever lock, I have now essentially created my first anti theft device for this thing!
I think it came out nice and it works great! As a side benifit, with a reciever lock, I have now essentially created my first anti theft device for this thing!
Worked like a charm! I made the sleeve out of the draw arm material (2.5x2.5x.25"). I inserted the tube about 2" into the sleeve, then I put a bead on the inside and layed it up thick on the outside to fill all the holes in.
I think it came out nice and it works great! As a side benifit, with a reciever lock, I have now essentially created my first anti theft device for this thing!
I have bulldog jacks on the rear right and left side of my AT bumper...coupled with the tongue jack I can easily and quickly find level on most terrain. You might consider welding a mount for these on your bumper.
- Thread starter
- #125
I have an idea for the rear to custom fab a few "legs" that drop down like a pick-up slide in camper. But I am so impressed with this Bulldog jack that I may need to scrape a few more pennies together to see if I can mount two out back.
Where do you keep all of them when you are out and about?
Rezarf <><
Drew, check into the jacks they use on a lot of pop-ups and light trailers. They spring up/flip down and with the proper mount will tuck up under the frame, or close. They are adjustable and nothing is more stable than a tripod
That is my intention, anyway....for the moment.
Ed
That is my intention, anyway....for the moment.
Ed
- Thread starter
- #127
Drew, check into the jacks they use on a lot of pop-ups and light trailers. They spring up/flip down and with the proper mount will tuck up under the frame, or close. They are adjustable and nothing is more stable than a tripod
That is my intention, anyway....for the moment.
Ed
I have looked into this, but the height of the trailer limits the applications I can use. I haven't found one that would reach up the 26" I need.
Got any ideas where to look other than RV stores?
I found a nice padded nylon bag of sorts with a 3-sided zipper top from Zodi that is perfect...takes up about 10"x10"x25" in the trailer. I would have posted a link but their site must be down this A.M. AT also has a tri-pod that is lightweight, collapsible and relatively stable. But it does not afford leveling capability...which I wanted and glad I have. If you're not bothered by sleeping on a slope or slopes then no biggy...but the rear bulldog jacks along with the tongue bulldog jack provide perfect leveling and stabilizing.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-jacks/light-trailer-jacks.htm
Take a look at these. This idea may be a little far fetched, but with your fab skills seems doable enough. Take the cheap 20" arm off and fab up a piece of tubing with a slot cut into it to accept the stabilizing arm of the jack. Drill a hole in the end of the tube for a pin and you could have an extentable jack for about 30"
Take a look at these. This idea may be a little far fetched, but with your fab skills seems doable enough. Take the cheap 20" arm off and fab up a piece of tubing with a slot cut into it to accept the stabilizing arm of the jack. Drill a hole in the end of the tube for a pin and you could have an extentable jack for about 30"
The 30" Jacks on this page may be your best bet.
http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consumer/leveling_products/levelingscissorsjack.shtml
http://norcoind.com/bal/products/consumer/leveling_products/levelingscissorsjack.shtml
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
The problems with this type of jack are;
1) They can get damaged on the trail
2) They need a lot of maintainence to work. The screw needs grease or it is a bear to crank, even with an electric cordless drill. But the grease traps dirt, which makes the screw a bear to crank. They may be okay on a rig that never leaves the pavement, but not for anything that will see dirt roads.
I had these on our 22' RV and I hated them. I much preferred the cheaper stabilizers.
The style Spressomon has are good, even if they are permanently mounted the screw is enclosed which protects them from dirt.
Yeah everything is a trade off, the bulldogs are bomb proof, but are heavy and need a storage place. The screw types are cheap and tuck out of the way but do need maint. I think if I were going so far as to build a custom trailer I would find a way to integrate the screw jacks into my frame so that they were as protected as possible.
those jacks are all pretty good but IMOP they add weight that can be better used elswhere. i know its not that much weight, but i built my trailer light and want to keep it that way. i am soon adding a RTT and a rack to hold it so i wanted support legs also,, this is what i did.
i welded square tube on the rear corners vertically, then made up a "slider" tube to fit in them with feet on the bottom,, i nose down the trailer a bit slide down the legs and then bring the trailer up to level, its simple light and works. i only use one hole for a fixed position and shim to level if needed, but a few holes for different heights is easy enough.
my original idea was to have the legs hinged and fold under the trailer when stowed.
i welded square tube on the rear corners vertically, then made up a "slider" tube to fit in them with feet on the bottom,, i nose down the trailer a bit slide down the legs and then bring the trailer up to level, its simple light and works. i only use one hole for a fixed position and shim to level if needed, but a few holes for different heights is easy enough.
my original idea was to have the legs hinged and fold under the trailer when stowed.
i knew that was comming,,,i need to get the cam from the wife.
- Thread starter
- #136
I have been thinking this will work too. You just beat me to it. I plan on using the spring stops that guys use on their tire carriers to hold them open and have adjustable holes for the adjustment in the legs.
Lower the front, and drop the legs then jack it up until your wheels just leave the ground and presto!
I'd love to see pics.
Rezarf <><
I plan on using 1 hole as well, but I am going to use a large threaded rod for height adjustment (just like a suspension arm length adjustment).
I started out planning on using the aluminum stabilizer jacks, but they offer no resistance to for/aft (and when one tire is off the ground, side/side) but I liked the adjustment.
However, I realized that holes, set an inch apart over the width of my trailer can adjust attitude with in about a degree. so it isn't necessary, but my trailer is only going to be about as high as it is off the ground, so I might need to do it anyway, unless I use multiple slides, which would loose stability, or carry a base for the legs to gain the extra height when necessary, which would sort of defeat the point of trying to get it under the trailer in the first place....
I started out planning on using the aluminum stabilizer jacks, but they offer no resistance to for/aft (and when one tire is off the ground, side/side) but I liked the adjustment.
However, I realized that holes, set an inch apart over the width of my trailer can adjust attitude with in about a degree. so it isn't necessary, but my trailer is only going to be about as high as it is off the ground, so I might need to do it anyway, unless I use multiple slides, which would loose stability, or carry a base for the legs to gain the extra height when necessary, which would sort of defeat the point of trying to get it under the trailer in the first place....
alia176
SILVER Star
Drew,
Here's the leg on my trailer. Not sure if it can be purchased in the states but it can extend well over 20". The leg is stored horizontally as you see (sorry about the back ground wood pile). To swing down, pull it out and swing downward until it locks. Then squeeze a spring loaded latch to drop the leg down to the ground. To extend it further, release the lynch pin and extend the lowest part as needed and then reinstall the lynch pin.
Stowed position:
Setup position:
Extended position:
Hope this helps.
Here's the leg on my trailer. Not sure if it can be purchased in the states but it can extend well over 20". The leg is stored horizontally as you see (sorry about the back ground wood pile). To swing down, pull it out and swing downward until it locks. Then squeeze a spring loaded latch to drop the leg down to the ground. To extend it further, release the lynch pin and extend the lowest part as needed and then reinstall the lynch pin.
Stowed position:
Setup position:
Extended position:
Hope this helps.
- Thread starter
- #139
Cool idea, thanks for sharing.
