- Thread starter
- #21
I came across that. I may give it a try.
My new obsession 94 FZJ80 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DevWin
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LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Aren’t 25&26 EGR and O2 sensor related?
Has it gotten much colder than normal lately? My money is on a loose clamping ring on one of your hoses and it puked coolant. Common when it gets cold as coolant expands.
I think your rough running is unrelated to the coolant loss.
This is based on my minimal expertise.
Has it gotten much colder than normal lately? My money is on a loose clamping ring on one of your hoses and it puked coolant. Common when it gets cold as coolant expands.
I think your rough running is unrelated to the coolant loss.
This is based on my minimal expertise.
i would bet one of the coolant hoses or the phh is leaking and the rough running is related to something else. My phh would puke randomly with almost no signs until i figured it out. Plus it could be any of the front our rear heater hoses. Even with a bad hg it would run unless a ton of coolant got in the cylinder and hydro locked it but if that happened you would have a bent rod or worse. plus the 93 and 94 are not as prone to hg failure as the 95 and older are. pull the plugs.
- Thread starter
- #25
They are rich and lean codes.
I haven’t seen any coolant leaking. Weeks ago I had a small drip, but not a gallon plus.
Is that enough brown milk? Just went out and looked.
An exterior coolant leak won’t cause the engine to over heat. Get the block tester so you know for sure. It’s cheap, quick and accurate.
oils cheap, might as well drain it and look and send it to Blackstone if you cant tell, get info on rig anyways....look in overflow for sludge as well. If oils clean and coolants clean replace all your hoses as suggested after the purchase. Doesn't look good though
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Nope. That small spot of coolant in the oilcap isn't a sure sign in PA wintertime.
Wipe it clean & watch it - also worth draining the oil.
If you get water/coolant out the oilpan before it turns to oil, then yes.
If not & you used a clean pan, dump it back in.
If you start with the chem reactant/ block tester 1st you'll know - it's ~$40 & tool free.
From NAPA it's a blue/purple fluid you hold over the radiator with the cap off & if there's HC's in the coolant the fluid turns Gatorade green.
Wipe it clean & watch it - also worth draining the oil.
If you get water/coolant out the oilpan before it turns to oil, then yes.
If not & you used a clean pan, dump it back in.
If you start with the chem reactant/ block tester 1st you'll know - it's ~$40 & tool free.
From NAPA it's a blue/purple fluid you hold over the radiator with the cap off & if there's HC's in the coolant the fluid turns Gatorade green.
well, hopefully it's not a hg.
RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
Welcome to the addictionI just picked up this 94 LC about 2 weeks ago. Straight trade for my 05 Pathfinder. This makes my 30th vehicle owned and I have to say one of my favorites. I have driven a few over the years including a rhd one in Afghanistan and have had owning one on my list.
It has 230k mile, a few modifications, and overall is very clean. It came from Colorado originally, so it is rust free.
My plans are to fix everything that is needed including,RH mirror, antenna, rear hatch lifts, and front axle seals. Also needs tires so I am going to 33s and maybe a small lift. Trying to keep from going crazy since I have other projects that came first. We’ll see how this goes.
They are rich and lean codes.
I haven’t seen any coolant leaking. Weeks ago I had a small drip, but not a gallon plus.
Is that enough brown milk? Just went out and looked.
From my perspective - YES. As suggested, you could drain the oil and see if it has that same look and runny consistency. I certainly wouldn't drive it very far! Same junk on the dipstick??
- Thread starter
- #33
Earlier the dipstick just looked very clean. I will check it in the morning.
I think I am going to do the block test, that seems like the easiest thing to rule out...or not.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Brent - for you in CA, sure - condensation in the crankcase isn't really an issue.
You ::could:: possibly have some yourself if you never hit self-cleaning temps like a good long road trip. But with your ambient I highly doubt it.
In the N half of the USA condensate in the case is commonplace from Nov-Mar.
And our oilcaps are about the single most effective design to be a vapor trap with the ~1.5" sidewall heights - it's a upside down bucket.
All that said, his other symptoms do sound like a HG, but on its' own a milky cap is more common here in the North than alot of people see/track.
Dev .... we live in the same town. Now there are at least 3 Cruiser heads (4 counting the guy that isn't on the forum) that I know of.
Post a pic of the dipstick. In my experience, if it looks like a caramel latte, it's the HG. Haven't had it happen in the Cruiser or LX yet, but blew up a couple of van and a few VQ Nissan engines.
Post a pic of the dipstick. In my experience, if it looks like a caramel latte, it's the HG. Haven't had it happen in the Cruiser or LX yet, but blew up a couple of van and a few VQ Nissan engines.
I just repaired code 26 on my 94, turned out to be a bad pair of O2 sensors. Here are a few links that may help you trouble shoot your codes.
How i fixed my 94 L.C. check engine light Code 26
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/upl...r manual/Service bulletin/T-CP-SO2-0162-W.pdf
Vf1 voltage
How i fixed my 94 L.C. check engine light Code 26
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/upl...r manual/Service bulletin/T-CP-SO2-0162-W.pdf
Vf1 voltage
Also if you are running the cheaper Bosch O2 sensors you will get codes. I had one for years and the code remained until I swapped it to OEM. It should not affect performance though or at least mine didn't.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
As I was saying...
O2 sensors. Rich/lean.
I think you have multiple issues but not a blown HG.
As Jay Z said “You got 99 problems but a HG ain’t one!”
- Thread starter
- #39
Checked the dip stick. Looks normal. I am still going to do the block test. As long as that comes back normal I will move on to others.
I did notice when I was digging around looking for vacuum leaks that the exhaust is leaking at the manifold/downpipe and right before the cat. Could explain the codes?
I did notice when I was digging around looking for vacuum leaks that the exhaust is leaking at the manifold/downpipe and right before the cat. Could explain the codes?
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Ummm, yeah. It will explain a lot of things.
Do the block test but I would bet money against the HG being blown.
I would bet money that there are a lot of little things that have been neglected and will need attention. Don’t panic, all of them have been experienced by many of us on the forum. You won’t be a “first” for any of these things. Do a google search, if you don’t find it, ask. People may give you sh!t for not searching, ignore them, some people are d!cks.
These aren’t your “normal” vehicles. They don’t grenade without ridiculous abuse and neglect. There are countless of us that have had neglected 80s that given a little love they are now reliable and will run for many years to come.
Keep oil in it, keep your coolant system in good working order, wash her once a week in the winter to keep her from rotting away, spray Fluid Film all over underneath her, buy stock in a gas company. Drive the sh!t out of it!
