My new 80 project... (1 Viewer)

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Well the valve cover is done, plugs and wires replaced, PCV replaced, and new spark plug gaskets. The good news is that the oil smell is gone so no more burning oil on the headers it looks like. And it runs great now.

Bad news is it still is leaking oil (good nickel size spots in three areas after sitting 10 min). It looks like its the lower pan gasket and upper pan gasket on the passenger side and maybe a rear main leak. Also looks like a little (1 drop) bit of tranny fluid is leaking from the front of the tranny and dripping onto the drive shaft. Looks like a metal connecting tube of some sort, haven't consulted the FSM yet.

I am going to try AT 205 or motor honey as a leak stop measure. Any suggestions on product or other ideas?

It's always something. I fix one thing and another pops up.
 
A wise man said "you can go broke trying to make an 80 perfect. And they will run like s*** for ever. "

posted with my thumbs.
 
A wise man said "you can go broke trying to make an 80 perfect. And they will run like s*** for ever. "

LOL! Thta's awesome! who said that?
on the flip side... they'll run ON s*** forever too!
 
I suppose so. But I really want to slow the oil leaks to one drop here or there. Not as much as there is. I'm just anal.

I suppose I'll wait and see. Clean it all real good again then watch it close.
 
I suppose so. But I really want to slow the oil leaks to one drop here or there. Not as much as there is. I'm just anal.

I suppose I'll wait and see. Clean it all real good again then watch it close.

Wait, we talkin cruisers?
 
Harhar. I know I know, it's going to leak. I'm just funny about it. I've put a lot (for me) into this one and I want it as good as possible.

So should I replace the upper and lower pan seals, pan arch seal, and rear main or just let it be with some stop leak s***?

And what type of stop leak s*** should I use? Any suggestions?
 
Definitely do the pan seals.... I bet the rer main ain't so bad once you fix all other leaks...
The harry beast seal to me is the oil pump seal... but I had an awesome shop to work in with a lift and great tools when we did mines, and a friends...
 
How hard is the upper and lower pan seal? And I understand the pan arch is a beast because the engine has the be raised.
 
How hard is the upper and lower pan seal? And I understand the pan arch is a beast because the engine has the be raised.

You just said the hardest part honestly...
Clean clean clean before though so it'll be less messy,
 
I guess I'll start calling tomorrow for prices on the few other leaks. I'm tired of wrenching and want a one week break.

So I'll get the upper and lower pan gaskets. What else should I ask to be done while they are in that lower area? Please weigh in so I can knock out as much as possible in one swoop.
 
I called Onur (beno) today at Larry H Miller Toyota of Albuquerque to get a quote on parts for the pan seals and all that.

Well turns out, according to Onur, it's a beat to change the top pan seal and requires raising the engine. And if I'm going to do that then I'm going to do a whole lot more while I'm there. He said plan on a out 12-15 hours of work to change all the pan arch stuff, pan seals, rear main and all.

So it looks like I'll leave it leaking. That's all way too involved for me to take care of and it's not enough to justify 1500-2000 worth of work.

Any thoughts on all that?
 
I called Onur (beno) today at Larry H Miller Toyota of Albuquerque to get a quote on parts for the pan seals and all that.

Well turns out, according to Onur, it's a beat to change the top pan seal and requires raising the engine. And if I'm going to do that then I'm going to do a whole lot more while I'm there. He said plan on a out 12-15 hours of work to change all the pan arch stuff, pan seals, rear main and all.

So it looks like I'll leave it leaking. That's all way too involved for me to take care of and it's not enough to justify 1500-2000 worth of work.

Any thoughts on all that?

you said raising the engine... which was why i said earlier, that's the hardest part. It's definitely an all-day job... But you don't change the rear main seal when chainging the pan gaskets.... those are seperate beasts...
Sure it's a LONG job... but it's not hard. Don't be overwhelmed by time. The reason it's a $15 part but a $1000 job at any mechanics shop is due to time... which is why we sit on this forum, cause we got plenty o' time.

Onur knows his s***. He's great people. And even met him in person in '09 to give him a hug!
 
Well I am going to let it ride for now. I don't have an engine hoist or near the know how to tackle raising the engine and all that. I may at some point plead for help from members when it gets worse. :D

But until then I am going to let it ride.
 
Well I am going to let it ride for now. I don't have an engine hoist or near the know how to tackle raising the engine and all that. I may at some point plead for help from members when it gets worse. :D

But until then I am going to let it ride.

there is a thread in the 80 section about cutting that bar in order to avoid raising the engine. they got into a big fuss over it...
 
I might try to find that thread. I did clean the engine bay and underside real good and the rear main is seeping for sure. I sat under it for 15 min and watched it. So I feel better knowing that's it.

I'll probably try some Bars rear main seal and see what happens. Other than that I'm not going to sweat it any more than I have too.
 
Got my Bars rear main stop leak today and will add. I also had the AC system looked at today and found my leak.



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My line from the dryer to the condenser is broke. I will have to call Onur and get one. Any other ideas?

Also, what are you guys thoughts on seafoam?

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Yep; that'll do it...
 
Drawers done.
 
Yep; that'll do it...

nothing some ductap wont fix....


Matthew I do have that part, my buddy ran off to arkansas with the key so I cant get the hood open at the moment. Ill get off at 7 tonight and I'll try to get into the hood and see if I can get that part.
 

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