My new 80 project... (1 Viewer)

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Yep,

If you want the springs as well I can do the lot for $225
Spacers, shocks, and stock springs

Nick
 
Are they heavies up front?
 
I had stock springs and 1"poly spacers...stock stock

Nick
 
I did the antenna tonight. Not too tough really. First you'll remove the cruise control cover and the fuel module on the fender. Then there is one screw holding the antenna motor in place. Remove that. You can then pull some slack on the coax and wiggle the motor out and service it.



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If you do what I did and replace it you'll snip the coax above the plug in the firewall. You'll see it when you pull the cord.

Next remove the fascia over the radio and the radio and unplug the coax cable. Unsnap the coax from inside the radio bay.



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Then take off the glove box by unscrewing the two screws below the box. Remove it and follow the coax and unsnap where it is connected behind the wiring.



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Then tape the cut coax to the fresh coax and feed it through hole in the firewall.



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Then feed it through by pulling the coax from behind the glove box then behind the radio. Then reconnect everything and you're all done.



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Has anybody messed with their power antenna to replace it with a normal not PITA type of antenna? My main question is, is the black cable taped on the top tube running into the dash the coax cabals into the radio?

Can I reuse it or do I need to use it as a guide to run new coax cable to the radio? My antenna was so corroded, when I tried to take off the crown cap it sheared off and now I have to order tons of parts or convert it to a normal one.

So I hope someone here knows how to mount a normal antenna and can help me...

I've replaced the whole thing once... easy to get to when you remove the fender.
 
Yea, I just went through the hole from the inside. It isn't too bad if you unclip the coax cable from the radio and two holding brackets. You can then get it out and service it but I decided to bypass it completely and put a whip antenna.

My motor still works if I ever decide to reuse it.
 
So I got the AC working but it cuts off at idle or low speed because I am not getting enough air to the condenser to cool it. I was told that the pressure gets too high sitting still because I have a weak fan clutch. So I'm getting a new fan clutch because I have a cheap aftermarket one in there than cannot be modded with a heavier oil.

It also threw the compressor belt yesterday after running it ten minutes on the interstate. How tight should the compressor belt be? It was a brand new NAPA belt so I'm not sure why it shredded it. Any ideas?

The compressor is kicking on right now when I press the AC button but not cooling since I have no belt.
 
Fan Clutch

Funny you should mention that. Your buddy down at W S White just quoted me a fan clutch. He was telling me about "A friend of his just bought one of those and is working on it all the time" I asked who and he gave me your name. I said "I just met him at a club meeting a few nights ago.
Small world or small town?
 
He told me that. It is a small world. I'm going to order OEM from Onur.
 
Did you replace the idler pulley?
I'm pretty sure that's what was tearing mine up. They are not too expensive from what I remember and I think beno recommends replacing it when you do the belt.
 
ClankBang said:
Did you replace the idler pulley?
I'm pretty sure that's what was tearing mine up. They are not too expensive from what I remember and I think beno recommends replacing it when you do the belt.

Good to know. I need to replace all my belts and a few hoses.

posted with my thumbs.
 
Mine was really bad. It spun but the nut was seized and I striped it trying to get it off.
I had to cut it off with a dremel tool.
 
My pulley seems ok because I can adjust it and it moves but I'll see what Onur says.
 
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So I got a new v belt for the compressor and installed it and low and behold the belt starts smoking on the compressor after running about two minutes. This is what must have happened to the last belt. It must have literally melted off. I can see a little bit of freon running through the sight window by the battery but it doesn't blow cold air. The RPMs drop when I press the AC button in the cab whether the belt is on or not.

So I removed the belt and my compressor won't turn by hand where the belt goes. I swear it did before today. Can anyone shed any light on this before I go f-ing crazy dealing with my AC.
 
I was worried about that (i didn't want to jinx you).
I'm not sure how the clutch works exactly... But I do know that running the compressor with no refrigerant will lock them up.
 
Well I never ran it without refrigerant, maybe it just gave up the ghost
 
mjl132 said:
So I got a new v belt for the compressor and installed it and low and behold the belt starts smoking on the compressor after running about two minutes. This is what must have happened to the last belt. It must have literally melted off. I can see a little bit of freon running through the sight window by the battery but it doesn't blow cold air. The RPMs drop when I press the AC button in the cab whether the belt is on or not.

So I removed the belt and my compressor won't turn by hand where the belt goes. I swear it did before today. Can anyone shed any light on this before I go f-ing crazy dealing with my AC.

Pull-a-part-partie at zack's this weekend?

posted with my thumbs.
 
Maybe. I'm going to price a new compressor and clutch I guess. Now I'll have a new pulley, drier, lines, expansion valve, fan clutch, and compressor when all is done.
 
Little research has led to believe that my clutch on the compressor may be going bad. I suppose I may try to price one. The compressor is noisy too when it does run so I think it may the clutch.
 
Ordered a new compressor today from Coolstream. He's a vendor here. Nice guy and I figured that would be the best course. Only cost $260 for a new Denso unit. So I figured that was better than $235 for a reman from NAPA. Hopefully that will solve my issues.
 

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