My new 80 project...

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mjl132

mjl132

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jun 14, 2009
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Since I have bought another 80 I won't to chronicle the problems, headaches, and issues that I am going to run into as I work on it and paste links to what I am going to have to do to it. This will first and foremost keep me sane and maybe gather all of the links in one thread for the poor souls that come after me that suffer the same issues in one thread.

Tonight I replaced the V-belt for the AC compressor and tensioned it. I used this thread and a NAPA belt to get the belt on. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/236051-ac-belt-tension.html

The AC still doesn't work, so I think the compressor may be shot. I replaced the fuses but it still isn't kicking on when I cut the AC on in the truck. Any ideas?

The poor 18 year old that had it before me didn't believe in cleaning it either apparently since I am covered in grime from being under it. He also told me the rear hatch didn't close, and oddly enough the child safety latch was on, so that was a simple flick of the switch to fix.

Either way, that is out of the way at least. I also ran it tonight for a bit and wathced the PHH spewing coolant. I bought hose and plan on replacing that this week as well. I have started researching the best way to do it.

My question is, if I bypass the metal tube with the green stripe from O'Reilly's can I still use the heater? That may be a dumb question, but I still am curious.

The list of what I have to do is....
1. Replace the PHH (done)
2. Replace left rear caliper that is leaking fluid everywhere (done)
3. Get AC working (critical importance in Alabama)
4. Replace foam in drivers seat
5. Change all fluids (done)
6. Get the blinkers and flashers working, I think it is a relay since the fuses are good (done)
7. Replace valve cover gasket, spark plugs, plug wires. (done)

Any suggestions are appreciated, and like I said, maybe by documenting what I do I can look back when it is done and feel like I have accomplished more than I really have.
 
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what part of alabama are you in? I am operating a miniature pick and pull in my front yard. I have a 93 with a blown motor, if you are interested in the AC compressor we can pull it off and see if it works.

I am not sure which tube you are talking about bypassing. I imagine for the next several months it will be nearly impossible to tell if you have heat or if you are just blowing regular air.
 
I'm in Hoover. I actually looked at an old Jeep Cherokee you had I think years ago if memory serves me when I lived in Tuscaloosa. What all is going on with your 80?

On a separate note I pulled the front drivers side wheel and cleaned it all up in the wheel well and scoped out the PHH area and what I think I need to do. What all do I need to disconnect to get to the PHH? I feel like I could use some pliers and get in there for the clamps on the hose, so what is the bear to get too and disconnect everyone speaks off?

I also took off the rear drivers side wheel and realized the caliper is shot and not just a leaky brake line. So that sucks. Oh well.
 
And I was talking about a PHH bypass, so I assume I would bypass the metal tube on the back of the block that the PHH from the block connects too. I'm sure that's clear...
 
Welcome to the sickness

If you are feeling ambitious, you can rebuild that caliper for around $20 in parts, but the replacement rebuilt calipers are not terribly expensive these days. Just north of $60 I believe. I had that PHH replaced when the head gasket was replaced. I took the new hose to the shop and they slapped it on while they were in there. I went with the blue silicone so, in theory, I should never have to deal with it again. Since you are just up in hoover I may drop by to laugh at you while you contort you arm up into that tiny blind hole and cuss a blue streak about how you "JUST HAD IT BUT THE OTHER END WONT FIT":flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
 
I'm not ambitous enough to rebuild the caliper quite yet. I'll get one from Graham's Automotive for $50 and be done with it.

You can point and laugh if you'll tell me how to do the PHH. I am still a bit confused on what all has to be moved. Staring at it from under the truck, it looks easy...
 
Don't go that route

mjl132 said:
I'm not ambitous enough to rebuild the caliper quite yet. I'll get one from Graham's Automotive for $50 and be done with it.



I would never even consider a used brake caliper. Especially when Graham is gonna charge you almost as much as a factory rebuilt unit from NAPA. If I am not mistaken, the NAPA reman units are usually re-manufactured from OE cores(just have the TOYOTA casting ground off) and some come with the pads already installed.
As for the PHH, I cant really laugh at you 'cause I had someone else put mine in for me. I think Clankbang has a shortcut for the job though.
Click to expand...
 
Well I drained the radiator last night, located the block drain plug and cleaned it up to do that next, and got a 12" long pair of 45 degree pliers to reach the rear clamp without having to remove the tranny diptick, etc. So tonight is the night to actaully take the PHH off and put a new one on.

And I'll probably go to NAPA and buy a new caliper, I am super cheap, but I will draw the line on some things. Like stopping a 5,000 lb monster.
 
I got the PHH off, so that is good news. The bad news is I cannot get the bolt off the lower side of the metal tube, so I am going to have to bypass it tomorrow night. I tried for 2 hours to get a new one on, and I think I cursed the designer, his children, his childrens children, and so on. I tried KY, brute force, tools galore, and prayer. And nothing worked to get the new hose on.

Now here is the horrible news. The whole back of my block is covered in a slosh of coolant and oil. I am afraid my HG is gone, and that is what was spewing coolant down the back of the block. I did watch the PHH have coolant run off/out of it when it was running, but it may have been coming from above that and running over the PHH. The coolant was pretty clean when I drained it, but it was low and I attributed that to the PHH leaking at the time. But now I am worried since the back of the block is so dirty with oil/coolant, the HG is gone.

Any thoughts? I would love some help, because the farther I get into this, the worse it gets... :bang:
 
Yeah.............What he said.............

You don't bypass the entire coolant flow, just the hard line. The soft line then goes from the block out, up, and around back to the top.[/QUOTE]




:meh::meh::meh::meh:
 
I'm going to bypass the hardline with Gates green stripe tomorrow and refill the radiator and see what happens. So the consensus is that the PHH is blowing coolant all over and oil is leaking too?

Cause that would be a headache that I could deal with,
 
The PHH is bypassed past the hard line. It all works as it should thus far. Tomorrow is new brake pads, new caliper on left rear, and new fluids all around.
 
I've noticed that my rear dome light and door lights stay on even when the doors are closed. Any ideas?
 
One of you're switches isn't working :D I know obvious right. There is a switch in each door looks like a mushroom head pull then one by one and unplug them until you find the culprit. Or your doors just open.

Sent from my Droid thingy using IH8MUD
 
I disconnected the switches in where the doors are and fiddled them and the lights still stay on. They both look normal, but I can't flip them from the front doors to the back because of different lengths on wiring. So I assume I can pick these up at an auto parts store? Also, they didn't look bad, could they still fail under the rubber 'boot'?

It also sounds like something is in the PCV valve of piece of tubing that connects the PCV to the manifold. When I rev the engine it sounds like there is a something in the tubing right against the valve and if you hold the tubing you can feel something in it it seems like. Any ideads on that?
 
Well I ordered a new caliper for the left rear today and pulled off the old caliper and the rotor. I have never seen such a mess. Every rubber piece on the caliper was worn out and had wholes in it. The caliper was seized on the rotor, and the best part was that the rear pad had sheared itself off and was lodged between the rotor and the dust shield. It was absolutely shot and the rotor is gone as well I am afraid. The good part is that taking off the rear rotors and calipers takes all of 10 minutes tops and I am learning more and more about this thing the more I tear into it.

I also cleaned the engine bay in preperation of doing the valve cover gasket if I can't find a mechanic. I figure the only way to learn how to do these things is to do it.
 
I have the new caliper and pads in and new rotors. The parking brake light came on before I took everything apart yesterday and didn't go off when I put it all back together. So I pulled the rotors and calipers back off the rear and started looking at everything. The parking brakes are worn out, but still have some life left. So I consulted the forums and I assume this thread from a 92 would still apply. https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/424536-parking-brake-light-question-92-fj80.html

It basically says that since my fluid is extremly low that that looks to be the cause. So I am going to install both new rotors, the new caliper, and new front and rear pads, then bleed the brakes and LPSV tomorrow and see what happens. Wish me luck.
 
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Your on the right track

The park brake light is the same as the low fluid indicator. The light likely has nothing to do with the parking brake, but is solely due to the low fluid level. The ONLY connection from the parking brake to the dash light is the switch under the hand brake lever. The parking brake is completely mechanical and not hydraulic, and does not depend on the fluid in the master cylinder.
Sounds like you are on the right track. Keep up the good work and post your progress. If you could use a hand, I may be able to come by and take a look.
 
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