My kid wanted a Jeep, she's getting a 77 FJ40 LS Swap instead (1 Viewer)

[JKIII FJ40]

Where did you source the weld in ring?

Just a standard pump for the engine application?

Range industries is where I got the ring Range Industries - https://range-industries.com/, they have two styles that may be of interest. There is a weld in ring GM Steel Weld-in Fuel Pump Mounting Ring (Large Diameter) - https://range-industries.com/products/copy-of-aluminum-weld-in-fuel-pump-mounting-ring?pr_prod_strat=jac&pr_rec_id=a0d19e861&pr_rec_pid=7174511952081&pr_ref_pid=7586058076369&pr_seq=uniform and a bolt in ring GM Clamp Style Fuel Pump Mounting Ring (Large Diameter) - https://range-industries.com/products/copy-of-aluminum-weld-in-fuel-pump-mounting-ring-1?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=5c1ed7667&pr_rec_pid=7174515294417&pr_ref_pid=7174511952081&pr_seq=uniform. Based on the tank depth they recommend several pumps. I got the idea from another thread and found this vendor that had these products instead of cutting out a ring of a GM tank and welding it in. Overall I like both.
Here is the pump I went with Amazon.com: DOLKSN Fuel Pump Module Assembly Fits For 2005 2006 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche Suburban 1500 GMC Yukon XL 1500 V8 5.3L Flex E3706M : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RHZTLR5?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3. I suggest using the metal top pumps vs plastic for both range industries rings so you dont have to get another ring in addition to clamp it down. What I learned is the pumps serve a range of depths, the one I listed is for tanks from 7-9" deep. Its got an offset and that made the install a little fun as I have to compensate the hole for the pump offset, basically drank a few beers and then figured it out. Where I placed the pump, I am unable to use the stock tank float gauge. I just got a Dakota Digital dash so I plan on using the GM plug to feed the signal. I did have to bend the gm float to get it to work based on the pump offset in the tank. How I have it aligned will allow my fuel lines to come out the side of the seat rails and through the stock fuel line opening.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I am looking to replace frame rail pump and need a smaller aux tank so will probably just use a small 7 psi elec pump to transfer aux to main, that in tank gm pump is rated to run a 6.0 ls ?

As far as I know, all GM pumps should be adequate. Hopefully by next week I will have the tank in and the corvette filter/regulator (Amazon.com: Fuel Pressure Regulator/Filter Kit 58PSI Replacement For Chevy Corvette C5 5.3 LS Swap EFI Conversion with AN-6 Return Fittings 3/8'' 5/16'' EFI Inlet Outlet Return Fuel Rail Adpater Replace WIX 33737 : Automotive - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNRJJTCK/?coliid=I2YANH1X7AH4HM&colid=3PRRFFWDHFCUU&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it) and this will provide 58 psi to the motor.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Curious what the cost for the parts to put gm pump in stock tank ended up adding to ?
FWIW, when/if you flex that 40 the bib will want to torque, keep an eye on it to see if the alum edges where fenders bolt isnt distorting or the mount bottom middle.

it should be under 100$ for both the pump and regulator, I just posted the links for what I bought in the other reply's.
Can you share more about the bib, I know ICON uses Aqualu products and its seems much more robust than the stock stamped metal. Honestly I this will be a parking lot princess and doubt my daughter will get to the extreme with flexing the body.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I’m looking at this not to change fuel directions and not run an aux tank yet.

Weld in ring is $100 roughly. Plus factory GM sending unit assembly $200

OEM reliability and can get a pump at basically any parts store

this is the clamp style ring, highly suggest this on a used tank vs welding. I bought a new tank so thats why I had it welded in.

 

[peesalot]

Isnt the fuel pressure regulated at the rail ?

 

[Augustiron]

Some are, some aren't

 

[cruisermatt]

Isnt the fuel pressure regulated at the rail ?

only 98-02 engines. However those early rails can be installed onto later Gen 3 intakes. Those rails with the built-in regulator are my favorite for Gen 3

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Here is an update on what I have accomplished recently. I installed my wiper motor (had to solder a broken wire) with new gaskets from CityRacerLLC, I added the fuel pipe vent line fitting, I drilled new holes and used nutserts for the heater (something to check on when you have a topnault, tub should you go that route), installed both the tunnel gasket and silas deadening mat, and made a battery mock up out of cardboard. I may end up moving the PCM/TCM to the driver side fender to give more room for the battery. The Dakota Digital dash is in so I have even more to do.

I am guessing will be on the road by 2029 at this rate, here is the list of items left to go:

- finish repairing the main wiring harness, only a few more wires to repair on the harness behind the dash. I also need to fab a mount for the fuse box, another oversight from Topnault, I will repair the damages/spliced ends near the lights later on as I have the new Toyota lights and will need to splice anyways. I also have a new rear harness, big thanks to Coolerman for making it for me!
- With the tank in I should be able to mock up the fuel regulator and lines so they are tucked away and secure
- I need to fab a battery mount, with the stock heater and the AA engine mounts it adds some challenges. I also wanted the air intake on the passenger side to the left of the radiator too. I dont want to have it hang on the fender either as some have done. BTB does have a mount that may work, its not priced too bad but I have enough steel at work I can fab something
- I will then add the Dakota Digital dash after all that
- My springs are at full arch, I need to flex them and maybe weigh it down to get a good measurement for the drive shafts
- I think I will need to do some more body adjustments too as the front of the tub seems low compared to the fenders alignment. This on hold until the new bib is painted so I can mock up the front clip and make sure things line up
- Once thats all done, well then its exhaust time (hoping Matt made a spare front exhaust when he built the last one, wishful thinking), I have the summit G0908 manifolds that require the passenger side to wrap around the oil pan sump to a Y pipe, from there I can fab everything else in my garage. I just dont feel like making a bunch of cuts and tack welding 15-20 separate splices
- when thats all done then its back to the painter to buff out some paint runs and then put seats in and the last of the fit and finish to drive it

yep, 2029......

 

[clrussell]

I moved my battery to the driver side, used the factory tray with some modifications. Bolted to frame using two bolts and to the shock tower using the big bolt.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

good option. Not sure I want to use the DS as the engine is one inch less between the frame rail on that side. Im also using F250 shock towers so it could be done but I am looking for a frame mount only where everything else can be ripped off.

 

[clrussell]

good option. Not sure I want to use the DS as the engine is one inch less between the frame rail on that side. Im also using F250 shock towers so it could be done but I am looking for a frame mount only where everything else can be ripped off.

Honestly it fits great. I moved it up by the radiator. Still just enough room to reach down and access the Power steering cap and fill it. I’m planning to use the factory side post GM battery cables as well.

My engine is also offset to driver side.

Only pictures I have at the moment.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Added some rear bling bling, just badges on the rear for now.

I also added some Silas deadening material to the firewall, it might be a waste of time but I am going to give it a try.

Next up is the front bumper, I decided to reclaim the bumper. It was bent up a little, with a little heat and persuasion and some paint its decent enough to use going forward.

The last photo is the harness post repair, several wires were hacked up so I retraced every thing I could but wont know for certain until its fully powered.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

The Topnault tub lacked mounting tabs for the fuse box, it was kinda a pain in the neck to mount the tabs but doable. Chalk it up to another thing I missed on the mock up.

Here's a pic of the fuse panel in place, and of the new flasher relay.

And of course, everyone's favorite chore.....dash wiring. As this is an LS Swap I will be working through what will be used and what wont. I taped the alternator wires as they aren't needed anymore.

Last but not least is the throttle pedal install. I am making a spacer bracket before this is finalized.

And here is the battery bracket, seems stout enough. Plenty of clearance with the hood down too.

 

[SC-Cruiser]

The Topnault tub lacked mounting tabs for the fuse box, it was kinda a pain in the neck to mount the tabs but doable. Chalk it up to another thing I missed on the mock up.
View attachment 3959979
Here's a pic of the fuse panel in place, and of the new flasher relay.
View attachment 3959980
And of course, everyone's favorite chore.....dash wiring. As this is an LS Swap I will be working through what will be used and what wont. I taped the alternator wires as they aren't needed anymore.
View attachment 3959981
Last but not least is the throttle pedal install. I am making a spacer bracket before this is finalized.
View attachment 3959982
And here is the battery bracket, seems stout enough. Plenty of clearance with the hood down too.
View attachment 3959983

Looking great.
What DBW pedal are you using?

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Looking great.
What DBW pedal are you using?

Here's the one I used Chevrolet Performance Throttle Pedal Assemblies 19417903 - https://bp-automotive.com/product/chevrolet-performance-throttle-pedal-assemblies-19417903/. I put it in the vice and reversed the bends so it would work.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

More bling, apron badges and rear bullet reflectors. Heater is now plumbed inside and the by-pass valve is also in under the battery box.

 

[newmexicokid]

Dude

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Installed the passenger side front shock tower. I decided to bolt it in vs welding, took a lot longer to bolt it in than anticipated. Cant wait to work on the driver side in a week or two....being facetious.
I picked up some painted parts last night, tonight I assembled most of the bib.