Builds My introduction...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

In the future, most regular autoparts store (Autozone/o'riellys/Advance Etc) can go really cheap on those tanks if you can get friendly with a manager. No shipping cost :)

I wouldn't worry about the sump too much. Just make sure you have at least 1/3 tank if you are going to do some really steep trails.

Couple questions, with that tank I think that filler opening on the tank is going to need to be lowered/angled, otherwise you might end up with a low spot in the filler neck track, the opening in the 1/4 panel is really low.

Why modify it for a different sending unit? That 5.7 ford pump should be plenty for what you are doing.
 
cruisermatt said:
In the future, most regular autoparts store (Autozone/o'riellys/Advance Etc) can go really cheap on those tanks if you can get friendly with a manager. No shipping cost :)

I wouldn't worry about the sump too much. Just make sure you have at least 1/3 tank if you are going to do some really steep trails.

Couple questions, with that tank I think that filler opening on the tank is going to need to be lowered/angled, otherwise you might end up with a low spot in the filler neck track, the opening in the 1/4 panel is really low.

Why modify it for a different sending unit? That 5.7 ford pump should be plenty for what you are doing.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the heads up. I chose that particular tank by a few criteria...
1st is the capacity. We wanted over 25 gallons.

2nd was cost. As you're aware there are a few options for auxiliary tanks for that rear location on a fj80, but at around $2k, we'd rather put that $$ in bigger brakes.

3rd was size/shape to fit in that space, but be as thin as possible. I would have loved to find a larger but thinner tank, but looking through rock auto wasn't showing many options while maintaining that large capacity and shape.

Lastly was the filler and pump locations. A mid 90s Tahoe tank was almost the same, but I preferred the rear pump location with the filler on the right, since the body is a 60.
I could build a fully custom one, but at around $150 including the mounting straps, it was worth a shot to get started at least. No doubt I'll fabricate a suitable skid plate once I get a body(couple weeks) and get the tank mounted as high as I can.

But to answer your last question is the pwm pump that are on the LT engines. We have an oem chevy pump which wouldn't fit this tank or the Tahoe tank without modifications. When we started this journey, there weren't many resources for the LT swaps, but as time goes on, more options are becoming available.
 
AcroSteve said:
But to answer your last question is the pwm pump that are on the LT engines. We have an oem chevy pump which wouldn't fit this tank or the Tahoe tank without modifications. When we started this journey, there weren't many resources for the LT swaps, but as time goes on, more options are becoming available.
Click to expand...

Whoops, I forgot you are gen 5 and need that specific pump. Carry on.
 
cruisermatt said:
Whoops, I forgot you are gen 5 and need that specific pump. Carry on.
Click to expand...
There's always the option of adding a fuel regulator and return line with a more "conventional" ls type pump, but the pwm pump method seems better. Just pump what is needed and no fuel heating. Although I do wonder how much of an issue that really is.
 
Well, I had anticipated assembling the front knuckles and checking them with the factory alignment tooling.

I've got both sides together with new bearings and zero shims. I'm getting about 7lbs on my scale. Which is fine, as I understand it, for factory tires. But several sites and people recommend 15lbs for bigger tires. We're gonna be running 35s.

But with no shims currently, there's no easy way to further increase the preload. And also, no shims mean that there is no up/down adjustment possible regardless of what the alignment tool would show.

I could either shim under the races, or machine the surfaces on my knuckles. My preference would probably be the shims under the races. McMaster dies show 40x50mm shims.

I'm inclined to get the alignment tool and check anyway, just to rule out any major potential issues.

Thoughts?
 
What sites and people are recommending that?
 
The 15lbs?
Low range off road has a video series, and at least one other video I saw.
 
You don’t need more knuckle preload for 35’s.

Maybe if you were trying to make a Toyota axle survive with 40’s and ton of abuse. Which at that point is time for bearing eliminators or a different axle.
 
Little work on the fuel tank while waiting on some parts.

Couple areas of the tank split rather unexpectedly. Not areas that I was really moving much metal. I'm thinking brazing, or a jb weld type product.

20230709_194446.jpg


20230709_194315.jpg


20230709_194320.jpg


20230709_194335.jpg
 
Not really sure why the pump assembly is built offset, but I didn't like it...

20230709_195552.jpg

20230709_195416.jpg


So, I switched it...
20230709_203552.jpg
20230709_202817.jpg


20230709_203609.jpg


Waiting on the weld on ring and another piece from cpp that I might use to eliminate welding to the tank directly.
 
Last edited:
Great work! Doing the same 60/80 combo. Doing LM7/4L60e/80 transfer case, 3x locked. At a roller stage with body mounts in fab stage. Was concerned about the fuel tanks you mention because of lower hang below frame. Depending on your use. It may not be an issue. I think I will do a custom tank at a hot rod shop once i make a cardboard template. I have a 4plus rear bumper that can hold 3 5gal jerry tanks so don't need as big of a tank underneath. I also separated my 60 body (keep it on the lift) with front clip on and use it constantly for position checks with shortened 80 series roller below. Helps a ton with driveline placement and body mounts.

Subscribed!
 
ceylonfj40nut said:
Great work! Doing the same 60/80 combo. Doing LM7/4L60e/80 transfer case, 3x locked. At a roller stage with body mounts in fab stage. Was concerned about the fuel tanks you mention because of lower hang below frame. Depending on your use. It may not be an issue. I think I will do a custom tank at a hot rod shop once i make a cardboard template. I have a 4plus rear bumper that can hold 3 5gal jerry tanks so don't need as big of a tank underneath. I also separated my 60 body (keep it on the lift) with front clip on and use it constantly for position checks with shortened 80 series roller below. Helps a ton with driveline placement and body mounts.

Subscribed!
Click to expand...
All together we'll have about 350 in this approx 33 gal tank, not counting pump and sending unit. Or skid plate. But that will be custom fabbed from 3/16 plate probably.

Going Saturday to pick up a lower body do we can make some fabrication progress.

Where did you shorten your frame? I'm not seeing many options. Current plan is to cut rear lower link brackets off of the frame, shorten about 3.5" there, and then reattach the brackets. But I'm wanting to get the engine and trans situated 1st, then get them back out of the way before tackling the frame.
 
AcroSteve said:
All together we'll have about 350 in this approx 33 gal tank, not counting pump and sending unit. Or skid plate. But that will be custom fabbed from 3/16 plate probably.

Going Saturday to pick up a lower body do we can make some fabrication progress.

Where did you shorten your frame? I'm not seeing many options. Current plan is to cut rear lower link brackets off of the frame, shorten about 3.5" there, and then reattach the brackets. But I'm wanting to get the engine and trans situated 1st, then get them back out of the way before tackling the frame.
Click to expand...
Build thread is here with details on frame cut. Did 4.75” cut out at rear control arms.

forum.ih8mud.com

Rootbeer Float my FJ140 Build Thread

I have been meaning to start a build thread since 2017 when we got her. There have been a few distractions with my boys projects that have slowed the start. The fam made an adventure out of it to fly to Nanaimo, BC to pick it up and drive it back to Texas. We drove in the winter through...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
@AcroSteve , just curious, did you sink that sending unit to pick up ground clearance when all said n done? i just hung a 31 gallon suburban tank into my 60. used uhmw for a spacer, scribed to nest top of tank , the lines from sending unit are 1/2" below the floor. did that to keep evap n fill vent lines above the physical tank. our resident cruiser whisperer @FJ40Jim did a thread back in the days of yore experimenting with GM n Ford tanks n said that was an issue. we'll see. i'll try to get pics posted up in my thread. good fortunes with your build mister. i'll be keeping an eye on it. 👍
 
kirvesmies said:
no worries , why did you sink the sending unit opening? was it to get the tank higher for more ground clearance? the way i see it in your pics the lines n connections would be slightly above the top plane of the tank.
Click to expand...
Ah.

Initially, it was sloped. So I wanted to flatten it and keep the pump/gage assy vertical.

But it was also to get the top of the pump assy from sticking up too much.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Introduction
Replies
3
Views
432
Monterreyjack
M
blakejswingle
FJ60 Introduction/ARB Bumper Q's
Replies
9
Views
826
alkarich
alkarich
snowyhermit
My Rusty FJ62
2
Replies
23
Views
2K
cruiser86
cruiser86
knewjax
Burned Up my alternator / capacitor?
Replies
4
Views
600
cps432
cps432

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom