right on. the fractional increase in ground clearance is a bonus for you then
Build My introduction...
- Thread starter AcroSteve
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- Thread starter
- #42
I got one if these, hoping it would work out. Hoping the center hole was big enough for my pump unit. The thick gasket and bolts would have eliminated the need for welding directly to my tank.
But, the hole is about 3/8 too small.
I was going to do the actual welding on the top part of the assy, which bolts on.
The thick gasket would have accommodated the variations in the opening I have.
Plan b coming up.
Other than that, rear park brakes are together and the hubs are on temporary. Gonna put the axle housing back under the rear and start thinking about cutting the frame like @ceylonfj40nut did.
But, the hole is about 3/8 too small.
I was going to do the actual welding on the top part of the assy, which bolts on.
The thick gasket would have accommodated the variations in the opening I have.
Plan b coming up.
Other than that, rear park brakes are together and the hubs are on temporary. Gonna put the axle housing back under the rear and start thinking about cutting the frame like @ceylonfj40nut did.
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- Thread starter
- #43
As I mentioned, we picked up a partial body Saturday. Shoutout to Jonas at BarnyardCruisers.
Well, due to our desired price point(cheap), Jonas cut off everything he could that was saleable/useable. I did have higher expectations of it maintaining some stiffness, but this thing was like a wet noodle.
Oh my...
Anyway, a dozen screw jacks, misc scrap metal, welder and a laser level later...
Time to fly that thing. Sitting much higher than we hoped. I believe I'm gonna cut out the pinch weld and get it as low as I can.
Well, due to our desired price point(cheap), Jonas cut off everything he could that was saleable/useable. I did have higher expectations of it maintaining some stiffness, but this thing was like a wet noodle.
Oh my...
Anyway, a dozen screw jacks, misc scrap metal, welder and a laser level later...
Time to fly that thing. Sitting much higher than we hoped. I believe I'm gonna cut out the pinch weld and get it as low as I can.
am i figuring this correctly, you're using that floor pan to give you virtually exact points for body mounts n such on to the 80 portion? or am i sloggin' around in the muskeg some place? 
hard points to shoot for sure makes it easier
hard points to shoot for sure makes it easier- Thread starter
- #45
am i figuring this correctly, you're using that floor pan to give you virtually exact points for body mounts n such on to the 80 portion? or am i sloggin' around in the muskeg some place?
Yep, this one is a little far gone yo go sourcing sheet metal.
This rear door sill section is what I'm using for level reference.
Anyone see a problem with this?
And im referencing the main frame rail under the seats, rather than leveling from the radiator mount clear back to the rear corner.
That section should be level, right?
i believe your thinking is correctYep, this one is a little far gone yo go sourcing sheet metal.
This rear door sill section is what I'm using for level reference.
Anyone see a problem with this?
And im referencing the main frame rail under the seats, rather than leveling from the radiator mount clear back to the rear corner.
That section should be level, right?
View attachment 3375312
- Thread starter
- #49
Finally shortened the frame today. Still have to do a little modification to the link brackets, but the frame is done. I had removed the body mounts the other day, and filled in any gouges I had from the removal today.
Regarding the brackets, maybe I should have split the difference, but I did all of the shortening "in front" of the brackets. This results in the rear edge of the bracket essentially staying in the same place on the frame.
Regarding the brackets, maybe I should have split the difference, but I did all of the shortening "in front" of the brackets. This results in the rear edge of the bracket essentially staying in the same place on the frame.
- Thread starter
- #50
Thanks to @ceylonfj40nut for the guidance
- Thread starter
- #51
Spoke with @Tank5 about some ideas. He had a good idea. Make relief cuts on the line shown by yellow tape so you can fold the top part along the fold line between the tape after you tack weld the bracket in place using the jig. Tack welding the bracket holds it in position and keeps the bushing eyes plumb while folding the top. I used clamps to pull the top part toward the frame. I massaged it to shape with a BFH, gently
I will do the other side tomorrow.
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Was the modification due too the 80 frame?
- Thread starter
- #53
Yes, when shortening the frame, there is only one short straight section - right where the rear link brackets are.
After shortening, the bend starts behind the bracket in its new position.
- Thread starter
- #54
Sorry, answered a different question
Well, that location was due mainly with the new drive train.
However, after fitting the front axle, I had to raise the motor up about 3" and back towards the drivers side. I also had the body on to check clearances again.
Yah sorry my question was poorly worded also. I am planning to LS swap also, but never had seen Matts brackets offset back to center. I assumed the offset he build in was correct. Was wondering if the FJ80 frame vs the FJ60 frame was the reasoning behind the modsSorry, answered a different question
Well, that location was due mainly with the new drive train.
However, after fitting the front axle, I had to raise the motor up about 3" and back towards the drivers side. I also had the body on to check clearances again.
- Thread starter
- #56
I guess the offset is primarily because of the offset output on the factory fj80 transfer case. Secondarily, front driveshaft clearance.
The driveshaft clearance is the reason I went back to the left offset. My transfer case has center output.
- Thread starter
- #57
Pretty much have got the front 6 body mounts tacked in place, and was looking the rear section over for the other 4.
I've decided I am going to flip that back section over to raise the rails up to the bottom of the body. It's about 2.5". More ln that later.
Since I had the body elevation set, I wanted to settle on the gas tank mounting. The front mount won't be affected by the frame mod, but the rear will. But the basic idea is set. Just need to drill/tap some holes for it later. I'll sand blast the angles I used before paint.
Again, this is a tank from a 96 Bronco - with factory straps.
I've decided I am going to flip that back section over to raise the rails up to the bottom of the body. It's about 2.5". More ln that later.
Since I had the body elevation set, I wanted to settle on the gas tank mounting. The front mount won't be affected by the frame mod, but the rear will. But the basic idea is set. Just need to drill/tap some holes for it later. I'll sand blast the angles I used before paint.
Again, this is a tank from a 96 Bronco - with factory straps.
- Thread starter
- #58
Welding is done, some sandblasting today. I was gonna paint when i got home this afternoon, but my electric was off.
So I spent some time removing all the old weld spatter and soothing any sharp edges with my cordless grinder...
Wipe down and paint tomorrow...
So I spent some time removing all the old weld spatter and soothing any sharp edges with my cordless grinder...
Wipe down and paint tomorrow...
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He has an Atlas transfer case with center output
Thanks Matt, that was the difference I was looking for