Thanks for all the info...I want one. 
My hot water project
- Thread starter rhyary
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
The 5/8" to 1/2" fittings showed up today
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
Last edited:
NLXTACY
Wits' End
This is because of electrolysis. Its part of the OP's HE because my guess is its designed to be 100% duty cycle with water constantly being driven thru it. This would require a soft metal like zinc to be the sacrificial metal. I can't see it being needed for the application we are using it for but definitely can't hurt.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Great thread.
I though I would share my on-board shower project and experience with you guys, which I put in two years ago. The truck is a BJ74 diesel, which is a small truck with very little room under the hood.
I installed a marine HE and pump in the engine compartment, which replaced the headlight washer reservoir, which was not very useful. The HE is a marine oil cooler ($80) obtained from Seakamp Engineering, located in Bellingham, WA. http://www.seakamp.com/.
It is brazed copper so no risks of corrosion. It is mounted with muffler clamps on a vertical piece of sheet metal bolted to the inside fender near the batteries.
The pump shown in the picture is a Shurflo Classic 2.7 gal/min, which I have since replaced with a smaller pump from Harbour Freight. The Shurflow pumped too fast and did not allow the water enough time to pick up heat flowing through the HE. To slow the flow down I put in a smaller pump, which increased the freshwater residency time in the HE and increased the heat transfer.
12v Marine Utility Water Pump
To use the shower, I insert a rod into a slot in the top of my open hood and clamp the shower head to the rod. I use a Bass Pro privacy enclosure to shower when I need privacy or if it’s windy and cold.
Bass Pro Shops® Portable Camp Shower/Toilet Shelter | Bass Pro Shops
I only have to pack two 5’ hoses, which take up very little room stored in the inside door map slot. One hose (5/8”) supplies freshwater from a container on my front bumper and the other ¼” hose from the HE to supply the shower head. The 12 v. water pump is bolted beside the HE.
Compactness was a major design constraint, as you can see in the pictures.
I use about 2 ½ gallons (10 litres) of water per shower. I do not pack shower water with me but use stream or river water when camping taken at ambient temperature between 35F to 50F depending upon elevation and time of year. I simply recycle the shower water into the freshwater container to bring it up to desired 105F shower temperature.
Often we camp by streams with only a few inches of water accessible from shore. In that case I use a flat stiff plastic “drybag” for kayaking (20 litres bag) to scoop up 2 or 3 gallons of water from the top 2” of the shallow streams. When full I attach the dry bag to my front bumper insert a hose in it to feed the water pump r. When not in use I roll it up, taking virtual no space to store.
Winter Maintenance
In the winter I use compressed air to blow out the HE to avoid any freezing problems.
Issue
In two years the only issue has been heater hose abrasion, which I spotted a few weeks ago. From the constant vibration of the trail, one of the hoses abraded underneath, where it was not visible. Lucky I caught this early as this would have leaked this year for sure. I recently replaced the hose and encased parts of it in heavy flexible plastic conduit (5/8” heater hose fits nicely in 1” ID plastic conduit) to protect it from any further abrasion. I would recommend you check your hoses for this, as it could cause a future problem if the hose is rubbing on a metal part anywhere along its length, either below or above.
Apart from that the system has been trouble free. .
Happy Trails
Glenn
I though I would share my on-board shower project and experience with you guys, which I put in two years ago. The truck is a BJ74 diesel, which is a small truck with very little room under the hood.
I installed a marine HE and pump in the engine compartment, which replaced the headlight washer reservoir, which was not very useful. The HE is a marine oil cooler ($80) obtained from Seakamp Engineering, located in Bellingham, WA. http://www.seakamp.com/.
It is brazed copper so no risks of corrosion. It is mounted with muffler clamps on a vertical piece of sheet metal bolted to the inside fender near the batteries.
The pump shown in the picture is a Shurflo Classic 2.7 gal/min, which I have since replaced with a smaller pump from Harbour Freight. The Shurflow pumped too fast and did not allow the water enough time to pick up heat flowing through the HE. To slow the flow down I put in a smaller pump, which increased the freshwater residency time in the HE and increased the heat transfer.
12v Marine Utility Water Pump
To use the shower, I insert a rod into a slot in the top of my open hood and clamp the shower head to the rod. I use a Bass Pro privacy enclosure to shower when I need privacy or if it’s windy and cold.
Bass Pro Shops® Portable Camp Shower/Toilet Shelter | Bass Pro Shops
I only have to pack two 5’ hoses, which take up very little room stored in the inside door map slot. One hose (5/8”) supplies freshwater from a container on my front bumper and the other ¼” hose from the HE to supply the shower head. The 12 v. water pump is bolted beside the HE.
Compactness was a major design constraint, as you can see in the pictures.
I use about 2 ½ gallons (10 litres) of water per shower. I do not pack shower water with me but use stream or river water when camping taken at ambient temperature between 35F to 50F depending upon elevation and time of year. I simply recycle the shower water into the freshwater container to bring it up to desired 105F shower temperature.
Often we camp by streams with only a few inches of water accessible from shore. In that case I use a flat stiff plastic “drybag” for kayaking (20 litres bag) to scoop up 2 or 3 gallons of water from the top 2” of the shallow streams. When full I attach the dry bag to my front bumper insert a hose in it to feed the water pump r. When not in use I roll it up, taking virtual no space to store.
Winter Maintenance
In the winter I use compressed air to blow out the HE to avoid any freezing problems.
Issue
In two years the only issue has been heater hose abrasion, which I spotted a few weeks ago. From the constant vibration of the trail, one of the hoses abraded underneath, where it was not visible. Lucky I caught this early as this would have leaked this year for sure. I recently replaced the hose and encased parts of it in heavy flexible plastic conduit (5/8” heater hose fits nicely in 1” ID plastic conduit) to protect it from any further abrasion. I would recommend you check your hoses for this, as it could cause a future problem if the hose is rubbing on a metal part anywhere along its length, either below or above.
Apart from that the system has been trouble free. .
Happy Trails
Glenn
alia176
SILVER Star
Nice job. One thing is curious: the harbor freight pump in your link is rated for 3.3 gpm, which is more than the Shurflo 2.7gpm! 
Don't believe it - it puts out less than half with the restictions I have. Buy the cheaper of the two HF units with the lesser output. The 2.7 gpm Shurflo is for a RV household shower, which is way too much water flow for a three minute shower, especially if you have to haul the water to the truck or carry it. Based on my poor memory I use between 2.5 and up to 3.5 gal for a long shower.
Ok. Sign me in please, I built one similar to this with permanent
Mounts on the aft bumper . Worked ok.yours is a bit more compact and
Seems more efficient. Good show .
Mounts on the aft bumper . Worked ok.yours is a bit more compact and
Seems more efficient. Good show .
- Thread starter
- #49
Some more information.
All my temperature testing were done using 40 degrees cold water @ 600 RPM.
My friend Jonathan and I were testing again, but this time we started at 1200 RPM.
Freaking perfect temp of a shower using streaming (one pass)
Again with 1000 RPM. Freaking perfect, streaming one pass. Also nice use for the hand throttle.
So my conclusion that the temperature test @ 600 rpm was not fair to the heat exchanger. At such low RPM the coolant is just not circulating enough for the heat exchange to work right.
Hose feeds a bucket continuously. The shower head point either into the bucket, for two passes test, or later away from the bucket for one pass test.
Picture shows the passion
All my temperature testing were done using 40 degrees cold water @ 600 RPM.
My friend Jonathan and I were testing again, but this time we started at 1200 RPM.
Freaking perfect temp of a shower using streaming (one pass)
Again with 1000 RPM. Freaking perfect, streaming one pass. Also nice use for the hand throttle.
So my conclusion that the temperature test @ 600 rpm was not fair to the heat exchanger. At such low RPM the coolant is just not circulating enough for the heat exchange to work right.
Hose feeds a bucket continuously. The shower head point either into the bucket, for two passes test, or later away from the bucket for one pass test.
Picture shows the passion
Last edited:
alia176
SILVER Star
mmmm, more data, mmmm more input....
Some more information.
All my temperature testing were done using 40 degrees cold water @ 600 RPM.
My friend Jonathan and I were testing again, but this time we started at 1200 RPM.
Freaking perfect temp of a shower using streaming (one pass)
Again with 1000 RPM. Freaking perfect, streaming one pass. Also nice use for the hand throttle.
So my conclusion that the temperature test @ 600 rpm was not fair to the heat exchange. At such low RPM the coolant is just not circulating enough for a heat exchange.
Hose feeds a bucket continuously. The shower head point either into the bucket, for two passes test, or later away from the bucket for one pass test.
Picture shows the passion
Good to hear. Another set of data would be to see what the coolant inlet temp is and what the outlet temp is. Should give you a good indication of the efficiency of the heat exchanger and how much heat it can pull out.
- Thread starter
- #52
Good point but I am not sure how to tap into the coolant lines.
For me I had to tap the coolant as hot as possible right out of the rear of of block, scrapping my rear heater lines to feed my HE. Every engine, fuel type, HE, hose configuration, initial water temperature will yield differing performance results. A friend of mine with a similar diesel engine has to mix cold water, since his water is too hot!!.
But regardless of the trouble in getting it dialed in -- a hot shower is absolutely fantastic out in the middle of nowhere.
But regardless of the trouble in getting it dialed in -- a hot shower is absolutely fantastic out in the middle of nowhere.
More data:
I have a 77 series TLC with the Helton Hot Water System. After driving all day, find a camp spot and once parked, set up 5 gallon Scepter jerry can and recycle the water via the pump that came with it the Helton. BTW: engine is off.
After about one cycle (about 5 mins or so), the water is at more than shower temp i.e. too hot. Turn off system. Set up camp, cook, eat and clean up dishes with a bit of the water, deploy shower stall and shower. Leave shower stall up until bed time to dry, then put away everything and Bob's your Uncle, clean and ready for bed.
As was stated, plumb the HE so you can remove it and still have a closed system. I have a temp valve on the system under the hood as well as using the heat selection on the heater inside the cab.
I have a 77 series TLC with the Helton Hot Water System. After driving all day, find a camp spot and once parked, set up 5 gallon Scepter jerry can and recycle the water via the pump that came with it the Helton. BTW: engine is off.
After about one cycle (about 5 mins or so), the water is at more than shower temp i.e. too hot. Turn off system. Set up camp, cook, eat and clean up dishes with a bit of the water, deploy shower stall and shower. Leave shower stall up until bed time to dry, then put away everything and Bob's your Uncle, clean and ready for bed.
As was stated, plumb the HE so you can remove it and still have a closed system. I have a temp valve on the system under the hood as well as using the heat selection on the heater inside the cab.
What was the water starting temperature and the ""too hot" for shower temperature. What is of interest the is the single pass temperature increase or difference.Thx
Starting temp was ambient, lets say 70F ish as jerry can was on rear bumper in the sun travelling in Beef Basin, Utah in May, clear day sunny, etc. Too hot for shower would be over 120F. Wait time from heating to using for shower was about 2-3 hours, so estimating shower temp was about 100-110F. Shower taken around 7 pm.
Don't forget a diesel gets hotter than a gas engine, higher compression, etc. engine stays warmer longer after being shut down. HE is right next to engine with coolant circulating through HE entire time so it is very hot. HE is solid copper so heat transmission is very good. I run the 12V pump and initial water is steaming hot coming out of shower head. Place head in jerry can and leave for ~5 minutes and then feel water coming out of head and still hot to touch. I would estimate when circulation is complete, jerry can (all 5 gal.) is about 130+F. System works well for me like this and have done it, 100 plus times at least over the last 2-3 years. I can adjust temp by using engine bay valve (as per Helton install) or the heater in cab temp selection sliders, but this only works while engine is running. Hope this helps.
BTW: I tap into my coolant lines just before they enter and after they leave the cab for heater. Allows for dual temp valve control if necessary. Engine temp valve allows for isolating HE for removal. All as per Helton install instructions.
Looks awesome Rami