My home built front bumper ! Need Help ! (1 Viewer)

[alex4640]

Started with a 1/2 inch plate my friend had left over.

Utilizing all 5 captured nuts in each side of the frame. 2 from the top, 2 from the bottom and 1 on each side.

I used the 1 1/4 inch front receiver from my 86' Toyota truck as the cross bar under the frame rails.

On my small welding table now, up-side-down, to set up the inner structure and frame around the winch.

Bumper done and painted. I'm using the front receiver as a licence plate holder. I can pull the pin and install the stinger.

I also cut T slots in the corners to lift it with my Farm Jack.

 

[alex4640]

Closer look at the T slots and side view of finished product.

Farm Jack works

 

[JeepinPete]

Nice!

 

[alex4640]

I need help now. I installed the winch and have some wiring problem that I don't understand.
I installed a master power switch inside the cab and an IN/OUT toggle as well. I also kept the outside remote switch. I wired both switches together (please see diagram) but only the inside toggle makes the winch turn. The outside toggle makes the relays click but the winch does not turn. I don't understand.

The outside toggle is getting 12v and good ground. Please help!

 

[alex4640]

Winch installed. Only half working

 

[YMT]

Try disconnecting each switch and see if they each work individually.

 

[alex4640]

Try disconnecting each switch and see if they each work individually.

I tried disconnecting the outside switch and the inside still works. The power for the outside switch comes from inside so I can’t disconnect the inside switch at the bumper. I guess I could disconnect the inside signal wires inside.

 

[ppc]

Is your dash switch a SPDT (Single Pole, Double Throw) type of switch? I know my Warn winch uses a DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) type of setup for safety considerations. How it provides safety, the remote makes two connections, not just one as shown on your dash switch wiring. That way it is not so simple as someone placing one jumper in the outside remote plug to operate the winch. You need to meter the existing remote or expose the wires to see its functionality. I don't understand what the intended function of your master switch based upon your wiring diagram.

Stolen from 4x4:

 

[alex4640]

Is your dash switch a SPDT (Single Pole, Double Throw) type of switch? I know my Warn winch uses a DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) type of setup for safety considerations. How it provides safety, the remote makes two connections, not just one as shown on your dash switch wiring. That way it is not so simple as someone placing one jumper in the outside remote plug to operate the winch. You need to meter the existing remote or expose the wires to see its functionality. I don't understand what the intended function of your master switch based upon your wiring diagram.

Stolen from 4x4:


Thanks for the response. The master switch is the only source of 12v to the switches (signal power). The outside switch does nothing if the master power switch is off. My inside switch is a Toyota antenna up/down switch. It only had 4 wires coming out of it. Metering, I found that one wire gained continuity to two others (individually) depending on the position of the switch. I used these two wires as IN/OUT signal wires and the one that connected to them as 12v in. The fourth wire did not make continuity to anything regardless of switch position so I did not use it.

 

[ppc]

Don't know what brand of winch you have but I don't think the antenna switch is going to work without using relays. The antenna switch is just two single pole switches in one package that operate independently. of each other. I understand the concept of the master switch, I just don't understand your diagram as its is lacking detail.

Check out the Slee Offroad website as the not only have a diagram of a circuit for the Warm 5-wire remote using the antenna switch, they also sell a circuit board with relays to make it simple.
Slee - Interior Winch Controls (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)

 

[alex4640]

Don't know what brand of winch you have but I don't think the antenna switch is going to work without using relays. The antenna switch is just two single pole switches in one package that operate independently. of each other. I understand the concept of the master switch, I just don't understand your diagram as its is lacking detail.

Check out the Slee Offroad website as the not only have a diagram of a circuit for the Warm 5-wire remote using the antenna switch, they also sell a circuit board with relays to make it simple.
Slee - Interior Winch Controls (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)

Thanks again. I'll look at this and do more research.

BTW, it's a Harbor Freight 12,000 lb. I do the best I can with very limited funds.

 

[Marine7]

Thanks again. I'll look at this and do more research.

BTW, it's a Harbor Freight 12,000 lb. I do the best I can with very limited funds.

Nothing wrong with them. I have run them on my last 3 vehicles, and they have never let me down !

 

[Tank5]

Did you test the remote switch to make sure it works? I have had two warn remotes die on me before. One was their VR series winch and it came from the factory not working.

 

[alex4640]

I wanted to finalize this post with the answer to my winch wiring question. If you have two locations for controlling the winch, here's what you need to do.

Both switches can be wired the same way to the winch relays. That is, you can simply tie the signal wires from both IN/OUT switches together at the winch relay locations.

However, one IN/OUT switch has to be wired different than the other switch.
The first switch (either one) can be wired normally with a single pole, double throw switch. That is: power to center and IN signal wire on one side and OUt signal wire on the other.

The other switch needs to be double pole, double throw. In this switch, you wire one side just like the first one. power to center and IN signal on one side and OUT signal on the other. The other side of the double throw needs to have the ground wire in the center. Then you criss cross the signal IN and OUT wires. I just used jumpers from the IN terminal on the power side to the OUT terminal on the ground side, etc.

What this does is when you flip the switch to IN, power goes to the IN signal at the winch relay and Ground goes to the OUT relay on the winch.

I have no idea why or how this works because I don't know sh%t about electricality. All I know is that my winch now works perfect through both the inside and remote switches.


By the Way: I used a Harbor Freight winch and the remote switch is a double throw, double pole switch. However, one side of the double throw is not used and the lead wire only has three (3) conductors. You need four (4) conductors so that you can add the Ground wire to the second thow side. I replaced the lead wire and made the necessary connections. Looks factory.

 

[nukegoat]

That doesnt make sense to me.

 

[cjmoon]

I think I'd need to draw out the circuit to visualize what you did. Are your double throw swithes NO normally open or NC normally closed? Maybe you back feeding your power through the oposing switch circuit?

I have dual controls/triple controls(plug at the winch never hooked up except for testing originally). Used a modified antenna switch by deleting the ground so it is only supplying power to each wire independently. Grabbed the antenna wires under the hood and wired those in line with the wireless controller and to the solenoid box. I've obviously deleted my power antenna all together so I utilized that harness and tied into it to avoid running more wires.

 

[alex4640]

I think I'd need to draw out the circuit to visualize what you did. Are your double throw swithes NO normally open or NC normally closed? Maybe you back feeding your power through the oposing switch circuit?

I have dual controls/triple controls(plug at the winch never hooked up except for testing originally). Used a modified antenna switch by deleting the ground so it is only supplying power to each wire independently. Grabbed the antenna wires under the hood and wired those in line with the wireless controller and to the solenoid box. I've obviously deleted my power antenna all together so I utilized that harness and tied into it to avoid running more wires.

The remote switch is the one that came with the Harbor Freight winch. It is a momentary NO double throw double pole. So it's two separate switches inside that are controlled with one lever. When I press the switch down (marked IN) it connects the top terminal of both sides to the center of both sides. Remember, the two sides are completely independent with no internal connections. When I press the switch up (OUT) it connects the bottom terminal on both sides to the center on both sides.