Just ordered myself some new struts and thin nuts from Mcmaster Carr, got tired of holding the upper hatch up with my head in the cold weather, lol. Big thanks to those that did the legwork on this!
My fix for the ever-elusive hatch struts (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gabepari
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maybe I am not getting it, but how is $90/strut so different from $137/strut 
they are not ever-elusive, CDan sells them
also, if someone wants our old struts, PM me - they are not bad, just slow and don't clear our heads - small people could reach the hatch without having to jump
they are not ever-elusive, CDan sells them
also, if someone wants our old struts, PM me - they are not bad, just slow and don't clear our heads - small people could reach the hatch without having to jump
maybe I am not getting it, but how is $90/strut so different from $137/strut
they are not ever-elusive, CDan sells them
also, if someone wants our old struts, PM me - they are not bad, just slow and don't clear our heads - small people could reach the hatch without having to jump
I believe they're about 98 bucks MUD price. Not cheap by any standard. Toyota has always been really proud of their hood/hatch struts though. The only problem I've seen with the aftermarket ones is that they don't last worth a flip.
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Mattnatti
See a Doctor and get rid of it.
I bought a used set from Arcteryx a few months ago for my hatch as the two that were on there were too short
and while putting them on o found out that 1
OEM strut ( used ) held the hatch up and the two newer aftermarket wouldn't.
I went to a boneyard a coup,e of weeks ago to scavange a 94' and I noticed that the hood and hatch struts held both up on a super windy and cold day. I am going back for them and I hope they are all still there. Along with a lot of other parts
and while putting them on o found out that 1OEM strut ( used ) held the hatch up and the two newer aftermarket wouldn't.
I went to a boneyard a coup,e of weeks ago to scavange a 94' and I noticed that the hood and hatch struts held both up on a super windy and cold day. I am going back for them and I hope they are all still there. Along with a lot of other parts
Is that in reference to auto parts store replacements or to the USA-made struts sold by mcmaster? 'Cause mcmaster-carr is not known for being low dollar by any stretch. They work with the aviation industry a lot. I will be a little surprised if my mcmaster struts don't last.
Sc0- said:
Are these McMaster Carr struts? When I installed mine my hood would close but it would leave a gap from fender to hood.
pretty sure they are. I used the same mod he did and i don't have a gap, except where my hood is bent.
Dissent
Questioning my life choices...
Just finished mine, took all of about 30 minutes. Removed the struts, stuck the bracket in a vise, 5/16 drill bit to drill the stud and open the hole, put on one nut, the bracket, a little Red Lock-Tite and the second nut. Repeat 3 more times and bolt 'em back on. Easy peasy and what a difference. Just have to be careful opening the hatch in the garage, the 2 inch additional lift is going to send my garage door opener bracket through the hatch if I'm not careful! :whoops:SACHS Struts? Anyone had any experience with these?
Hi Mudders,
I have been following tbhis thread and the only reference I saw in regards to SACHS struts is post 117, but since nobody ever answered I thought I'd ask again. These are available on Amazon at a very decent price, and being sachs (German brand, etc) I assume they should be at least half decent, but I'd like to get some real life feedback. Thanks in advance!
Hi Mudders,
I have been following tbhis thread and the only reference I saw in regards to SACHS struts is post 117, but since nobody ever answered I thought I'd ask again. These are available on Amazon at a very decent price, and being sachs (German brand, etc) I assume they should be at least half decent, but I'd like to get some real life feedback. Thanks in advance!
I finally got around to installing my front struts, the ones I got when I purchased the rears. Have to say that it was more difficult to do than the rears, and I'm not sure the fronts are as good a fit.
I had a real difficult time getting the studs out of the factory struts, the top one that screws into the hood. I ended up using a hacksaw and cutting the outter ball housing almost completely into before I could pop it out of the pocket. The matching stud from the supplied aftermarket struts was easy to remove. Just pull the little wire out of the hole and it pops right out. Getting the OEM stud into the new strut pocket is easy, just pop the thread with a hammer to pop it into the new pocket then put the wire back in to hold it in place.
You also have to drill the rivet out like the rear to pop off the lower bracket. This was easy after doing the rears, basically exactly the same technique works well. I drilled the rivet, then used the strut as a bat and popped the bracket on the work bench and it flies off. You have to drill out the hole in the bracket for the stud to fit through. I didn't have my calipers out so not sure what stud thread is or hole size needed but it's probably already mentioned in this thread. I used a new nut and two lock washers that fit the new stud to fasten the bracket back on but before doing this, I used the now removed bracket to mark my new hole. Just put the mounting bolt in, rotate it until the tab is at 12:00 and strike it with a hammer a few taps. Then I drilled a hole here until it fits easily in place with it bolted in place.
I did the passenger side first, then the drivers side. On the passengers side, I mounted the bottom bracket with stud first, then screwed in the top stud. This proved to be a little tricky getting the top stud in exactly the right angle to screw in. On the second one, Drivers side, I mounted the top stud first, then got the bracket bolt started, then swung the top tab into place. It proved a little easier.
Once finished, it lifts stronger and higher but I can't help but notice it's pulled my hood out of alignment just a little. It now has a larger gap when it closes, the gap at the window cowl. Maybe it needs aligned and re-tightened somehow.
I have no regrets on the rears, but if I had to do this mod again, I would think twice about the front hood struts. The factory struts are a lot heavier duty in build and quality, which is easy to see side by side but the new struts are stronger. Wish the hood struts fit just a little better.
Both sets are way cheaper than factory struts and from what I've read, are holding up really well. I haven't read of anybody having to replace these cheaper struts after doing this change so pretty good bang for the buck mod.
I had a real difficult time getting the studs out of the factory struts, the top one that screws into the hood. I ended up using a hacksaw and cutting the outter ball housing almost completely into before I could pop it out of the pocket. The matching stud from the supplied aftermarket struts was easy to remove. Just pull the little wire out of the hole and it pops right out. Getting the OEM stud into the new strut pocket is easy, just pop the thread with a hammer to pop it into the new pocket then put the wire back in to hold it in place.
You also have to drill the rivet out like the rear to pop off the lower bracket. This was easy after doing the rears, basically exactly the same technique works well. I drilled the rivet, then used the strut as a bat and popped the bracket on the work bench and it flies off. You have to drill out the hole in the bracket for the stud to fit through. I didn't have my calipers out so not sure what stud thread is or hole size needed but it's probably already mentioned in this thread. I used a new nut and two lock washers that fit the new stud to fasten the bracket back on but before doing this, I used the now removed bracket to mark my new hole. Just put the mounting bolt in, rotate it until the tab is at 12:00 and strike it with a hammer a few taps. Then I drilled a hole here until it fits easily in place with it bolted in place.
I did the passenger side first, then the drivers side. On the passengers side, I mounted the bottom bracket with stud first, then screwed in the top stud. This proved to be a little tricky getting the top stud in exactly the right angle to screw in. On the second one, Drivers side, I mounted the top stud first, then got the bracket bolt started, then swung the top tab into place. It proved a little easier.
Once finished, it lifts stronger and higher but I can't help but notice it's pulled my hood out of alignment just a little. It now has a larger gap when it closes, the gap at the window cowl. Maybe it needs aligned and re-tightened somehow.
I have no regrets on the rears, but if I had to do this mod again, I would think twice about the front hood struts. The factory struts are a lot heavier duty in build and quality, which is easy to see side by side but the new struts are stronger. Wish the hood struts fit just a little better.
Both sets are way cheaper than factory struts and from what I've read, are holding up really well. I haven't read of anybody having to replace these cheaper struts after doing this change so pretty good bang for the buck mod.
Just ordered another set of McMaster Carr struts for the new truck, thanks again for the info!
Ordered a pair. Thanks for the help on this one. My head is grateful.
I ordered a pair of the recommended McMaster-Carr 90lb struts mentioned in this post (4138T57) for $15.72 each. I found out like a few others have said, they are a tad too long and cause the top of the lift gate to contact the body.
I replaced them with McMaster-Carr's more expensive adjustable 90lb struts (6465K92) for 49.97 each. These on the other hand did not cause body contact with the lift gate. They are still longer than stock, and allow for the lift gate to open higher than stock (although not as high as 4138T57).
This body contact might be an individual vehicle thing, or year model specific. Mine is a 1997 Land Cruiser.
On a side note, don't waste you money on the thin steel nuts, as they will rust at the first touch of humidity. I went with some SS nuts from Home Depot.
I replaced them with McMaster-Carr's more expensive adjustable 90lb struts (6465K92) for 49.97 each. These on the other hand did not cause body contact with the lift gate. They are still longer than stock, and allow for the lift gate to open higher than stock (although not as high as 4138T57).
This body contact might be an individual vehicle thing, or year model specific. Mine is a 1997 Land Cruiser.
On a side note, don't waste you money on the thin steel nuts, as they will rust at the first touch of humidity. I went with some SS nuts from Home Depot.
Does your truck have a spoiler on the top of the lift gate?
Yes, but the spoiler did not make contact. The top lip of the lift gate made contact with the 4138T57 McMaster-Carr struts installed.
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
Adding value to this thread as it was a wealth of information:
80 Series mods for the day thanks to @nuclearlemon
and this thread
The hood part number is Strong Arm 4551L-R Gas Charged Hood Lift Support https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/st...551l-r-gas.../
$35.10 for both struts. Stonger than stock and a direct swap. The part number above is for both left and right with all the hardware.
Here is the information on the rears:
McMaster-Carr part number 4138T57 Gas Spring 19.72" Extended Length, 90 lbs. Extension Force McMaster-Carr
94805A110 316 Stainless Steel Thin Hex Nut Super-Corrosion-Resistant, 5/16"-18 Thread Size, Packs of 25 McMaster-Carr
$36.45 rear (including shipping and I bought 25 nuts that you will only need four of)
You have to drill out four rivets and grind down the studs to clear the body. Much stronger than stock and lift the gate about 2" higher. Some have reported that the hatch contacts the body at full extension. Mine appears to be good.
80 Series mods for the day thanks to @nuclearlemon
The hood part number is Strong Arm 4551L-R Gas Charged Hood Lift Support https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/st...551l-r-gas.../
$35.10 for both struts. Stonger than stock and a direct swap. The part number above is for both left and right with all the hardware.
Here is the information on the rears:
McMaster-Carr part number 4138T57 Gas Spring 19.72" Extended Length, 90 lbs. Extension Force McMaster-Carr
94805A110 316 Stainless Steel Thin Hex Nut Super-Corrosion-Resistant, 5/16"-18 Thread Size, Packs of 25 McMaster-Carr
$36.45 rear (including shipping and I bought 25 nuts that you will only need four of)
You have to drill out four rivets and grind down the studs to clear the body. Much stronger than stock and lift the gate about 2" higher. Some have reported that the hatch contacts the body at full extension. Mine appears to be good.
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
searched but nothing came up so i'll throw a link in for rear lift support that isn't McMaster modified
Strong Arm 6781L-R Rear lift supports, $40 a pair.
Strong Arm 6781L-R Gas Charged Liftgate Lift Support
Strong Arm 6781L-R Rear lift supports, $40 a pair.
Strong Arm 6781L-R Gas Charged Liftgate Lift Support
I just put on the recommended struts from McMaster...they definitely lift the hatch higher. The "couple extra inches" I've read about measured over 7" of difference from the ground to the rear lip of the hatch.
My hatch contacts the body now. Right in the middle, top edge of the hatch rubs at the full-open position. Has rubbed some paint off right there already I do like the opening force, and the extra height is nice....but now I'm kinda wishing I'd have gotten something just a bit shorter. (but still longer than stock, ideally)
Can't make some people (me) happy, I guess.
I didn't get a "before" pic, but the hatch was basically horizontal when fully open:
My hatch contacts the body now. Right in the middle, top edge of the hatch rubs at the full-open position. Has rubbed some paint off right there already
I do like the opening force, and the extra height is nice....but now I'm kinda wishing I'd have gotten something just a bit shorter. (but still longer than stock, ideally) Can't make some people (me) happy, I guess.
I didn't get a "before" pic, but the hatch was basically horizontal when fully open:
I replaced my hatch struts with these off eBay. Direct fit, work great, $18.
2x Tailgate Lift Supports Shock Strut for Toyota LX450 Landcruiser 80 1990-1997
2x Tailgate Lift Supports Shock Strut for Toyota LX450 Landcruiser 80 1990-1997
