My first 80 (1 Viewer)

[sogafarm]

Finally got around to replacing the alternator brushes, belts, and fusible link. All I can say is big hands in tight spots equals pain in the ass. Removed the battery, battery box, unbolted power steering res., and moved a few things out of the way so I could access the alternator. Replacing the brushes only took five minutes once alternator was removed and on the "very organized" work bench.

Once I figured out all the bolts to loosen, replaced all three belts, but had to remove skid plate and steering stabilizer to access the A/C belt from underneath. Fusible link went in with no problem. After putting everything back together, it started right up and was showing full charging around 14 volts according to the gauge.

Before, all the lights were lit up on the dash, now, only the CEL is on, but everything went smooth on the test drive. Will have to do some diagnostics to figure out why the one engine light is still on. My suspicion is it is either the AFM solder repair I did a few months ago or a worn wire on the oxygen sensor from where it touched the down pipe. Engine runs smooth and cranked right up after sitting for a couple of months.

Old verses new brushes. Definately time was up on the old one.

 

[sogafarm]

Next project will be to charge the A/C system. It seems to go from cold to not cold after a few minutes. On the last test drive, it started out blowing cold, then a fog came out of the vents, then not cold. Hoping it just needs more freon. Summers are brutally hot in South Georgia.
Edit: A/c works. For some reason, it only works when put on outside air, but when put on inside air, it does the above. I'm thinking there must be debris in the interior condenser housing. Will have to clean it out and report back.

 

[sogafarm]

Checked the Cel code and came up code 24, the air intake temp sensor, no other codes. I thought it might be the oxygen sensor wire that had rubbed against the down pipe, but no codes for that. So it must be the solder job on the AFM. Will have to resolder the AFM, I guess. The kicker is that everything is running great and idle is dead on 650 rpm after warm up. The cruiser runs and drives perfect despite the CEL being on.

 

[sogafarm]

New Marlin Crawler tie-rod, relay rod install with 555 ends. OME steering stabilizer from Slee installed also.

 

[davidp14]

How do you like the marlin kit?. I'm thinking about getting it myself

 

[sogafarm]

How do you like the marlin kit?. I'm thinking about getting it myself

It's been great. The price was good as well. I still need to paint the tie rod ends as they are starting to show surface rust.

 

[sogafarm]

Some updates:
Front birfield full service with new bearings. Cleaned diff breather.
Transmission cable adjustment.(It was shifting hard, now adjusted correctly it shifts smooth) Free fix!
New oem antenna.
New oem front shocks.
New OME steering stabilizer.
New oem rear shocks.
New heater valve with surrounding oem toyota heater hoses/clamps.*
New rear Toyota emblem.
New flare gaskets.*
New oem starter rebuild kit.*
PHH.*

* currently in process of installation

 

[FMC80]

Truck looks very nice. Has it been repainted? I like the pin stripes too

 

[Broski]

I always regretted selling my last Landcruiser in 2007.

After owning three FJ60's( 1983, 1986, and a 1987 which is in my avatar), I finally found an 80 series from Birmingham, AL in eddie baur green that was clean, close, and within budget. It's a 11/94 build date with the later full float axles and rear disc brakes and ABS, no airbags to worry about exploding, and cloth seats in great condition. No diff lockers, but I would rather have a clean example vs. bad example with the lockers. 207k miles on the odo and $5500 in documented repairs and maintenance that the previous owner had done recently by a reputable shop( Bfg AT KO2's plus spare, engine seals, brakes/rotors, new side mirror, power steering hose, rebuilt steering pump, oil pump, new radiator, new air plenum, Kenwood, etc.)

The only thing left is rebuilding the knuckles which is next on the agenda as well as changing of all fluids. Bought cheap walmart front seat covers for now. Had one front caliper bolt missing(just replaced) and the sunviser clips where missing(ordered from toyota dealer and replaced). Needs new antenna. Plans for the cruiser are to keep it stock for now as I want to keep it original as long as I can. I've got other vehicles for more off-road use so this 80 will be an occasional driver. View attachment 2120952View attachment 2120955View attachment 2120961View attachment 2120974View attachment 2120975

Nice Reg I also have the same year/color
Emerald pearl is what I believe they call it.
Mine came with the lockers and was as clean before I turned it into a rock crawler

 

[sogafarm]

Truck looks very nice. Has it been repainted? I like the pin stripes too

Thanks, I'm not 100%, but I think it has been resprayed on the driver's side, not sure about the passenger. I noticed a slight color difference when in the sun. Overall minus a few rock chips it's in pretty good condition. It was the best example I could afford when I bought it.

 

[sogafarm]

Nice Reg I also have the same year/color
Emerald pearl is what I believe they call it.
Mine came with the lockers and was as clean before I turned it into a rock crawler

Thanks, I'm going to keep this one stock and OEM Toyota. I'd like it to ride like it did from the showroom in the end and keep it for occasional trips. I've only put 1000 miles on it in the two years I've owned it.

 

[SpenserAK]

Those pictures of nice clean knuckles are very satisfying.

 

[BILT4ME]

Thanks, I'm going to keep this one stock and OEM Toyota. I'd like it to ride like it did from the showroom in the end and keep it for occasional trips. I've only put 1000 miles on it in the two years I've owned it.

You need to drive it more than that to keep out moisture and corrosion on all the rotating parts.

Make sure you get it fully up to temp on axles, transmission, engine so it flashes off all moisture in the system.

 

[sogafarm]

Those pictures of nice clean knuckles are very satisfying.

I wish they could stay that way, they are the cleanest thing under the cruiser right now besides the new oem shocks and new tierods. It took longer to clean the birfs than to rebuild them. Everything else is covered in Alabama clay crud.

 

[sogafarm]

You need to drive it more than that to keep out moisture and corrosion on all the rotating parts.

Make sure you get it fully up to temp on axles, transmission, engine so it flashes off all moisture in the system.

100% the plan when it cools off down here.

The A/C is still only working part time. It will freeze your nutz off the first few miles then the cold air turns to outside air temp after about 15-20 minutes. Hopefully the new heater valve helps with that and I'm sure that the inside condensor needs cleaning as well. I need to read up on the process. In the meantime the LC is nice and dry in my work shop.

On another note: I bought new heater hoses from the local dealer and they sent new cotter pin style clamps. Do you just twist the cotter pin and it tightens/loosens or is there another method? Thanks.

Edit: Found a thread that features the cotter style hose clamps. Twist the eye of cotter pin to tighten and reverse to open.

Cotter Pin hose clamps

Does anyone have a way to remove these without a dremel? I bought new clamps and this ones giving me trouble to get off

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[BILT4ME]

100% the plan when it cools off down here.

The A/C is still only working part time. It will freeze your nutz off the first few miles then the cold air turns to outside air temp after about 15-20 minutes. Hopefully the new heater valve helps with that and I'm sure that the inside condensor needs cleaning as well. I need to read up on the process. In the meantime the LC is nice and dry in my work shop.

One another note: I bought new heater hoses from the local dealer and they sent new cotter pin style clamps. Do you just twist the cotter pin and it tightens/loosens or is there another method? Thanks.

I have not installed the cotter style clamps, as they are too difficult without the exact tool.

One of the old suppliers here highly recommended the squeeze-style compression clamps, but you would have to know exactly which one to use for a given location.

 

[sogafarm]

Sometimes you have to get whatever help you can get. Bootsy the sheep helping change out the rear shocks. Booger the pitbull doing a rodent inspection.

All in all got the rear shocks in as the originals were shot. New Toyota shocks ride very nice. Also did the transmission cable adjustment and she shifts smooth and rides as it should with the new shocks. Also found a rattle I've been chasing since I bought it. It was a loose exhaust hanger bolt. I just added another washer and tightened it up. No more rattle. Still need to replace the bolts but it will do for now. Next project is the heater valve and hoses.

 

[FMC80]

Your compound looks amazing. It’s really satisfying to nail down extraneous noise.

 

[sogafarm]

Your compound looks amazing. It’s really satisfying to nail down extraneous noise.

That rattle finding mission was what motivated me to change out the shocks and everything in the front end to eliminate it. Turned out to be one screw loose.

 

[Broski]

That rattle finding mission was what motivated me to change out the shocks and everything in the front end to eliminate it. Turned out to be one screw loose.

Well 1 lose and one missing