Builds My first 80 Series (2 Viewers)

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This week I started the rear axle swap. I soaked everything down with some penetrating oil I read about years ago in a TLCA magazine by Mark Whatley. It works better than commercial products I've tried. Today as I was disassembling the drivers brake hardware I discovered the rotor was severely worn beyond spec and the caliper had not been installed correctly. So bad that somehow the caliper piston was not centered on the pad and a groove was worn into the bottom of the piston by the pad backing and the rubber boot was pulled out on one side. I'm not sure how this could've happened. Another P.O. adventure.
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Went back today and reworked the ARB roof rack. I loosened everything up and removed the rubber pieces that go between the mounting clip and rain gutter at the doors. Doors clear now without risk of damage. I'm wondering if these only work on vehicles that dont have the trim over the rain gutter possibly in another country or if it's best to remove it for improved fit. I'm pleased with how it turned out for what I can see in the garage. In the process I set up the middle and rear mounts first alternating sides to try to make it as even and centered as possible. I ended up using the 3rd hole down for the 6mm alignment bolt. The front I used the 2nd one down as there is more curve to the raingutter at that point. I then tightened the clips and the brackets where they bolt to the rack.
 
Decided to go with a turbo style muffler. Holley sticker on the box. Pretty much free flowing. I liked it on my last Cruiser project. Simple, affordable, & works well. Does anyone know a good source for Toyota style 2.5" exhaust flanges? This part will be custom.
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A little bling for the wifey. She wanted it for "her" cruiser.
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Front passenger door P.O. repair:
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Today's OEM repair:
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It's the details that make it feel right .
 
Nice tool that came in the mail from down under.
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More parts today. A set of head bolts, front axle knuckle seal kit with inner axle seals and wheel bearing seals.
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New motor mounts and fill/drain plug gaskets.
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Picked up some flow matched modern 12 hole denso injectors for the engine.
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Just picked up a new commercial bar for the 8274. :)
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Removed the power steering pressure hose. 17mm flare wrench at the box and 12mm bolt where the bracket connects to the frame.
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Removed the mounting bracket and heat insulation from the old hose and installed on the new hose.
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Today I started inspecting the driveshafts and found the front u-joints were worn and the rear shaft has slight spline wear. Anyone have their shaft resplined? Thinking about having both balanced since I have a lift.
 
Had front driveshaft reworked with new OEM u-joints, straightened, and balanced by Driveline Express. They do fantastic work. Looking for a good rear core before I have the rear one completely overhauled.
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Found a good used driveshaft. Thanks to slow95z.
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Very high quality. Japan made. I wouldn’t be afraid of them.
 
This week has been the first good weather of the year. After getting some much needed bench space and getting the Trooper worked on, I decided to start tearing down the power steering pump for a rebuild. I have it apart to the point of the inner plate behind the seal and the seal itself. i dont have a slide hammer, so is there another way to do this or is the slide hammer best?

fj80 and lx450 ps pump rebuild

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Looking at the 3rd picture in your post #228, there is a plug in the back of the PS pump. Since you have it out, I highly recommend filling that hole with JB Weld / Epoxy to prevent that plug from blowing out. It does not do anything other than aid in OEM machining and assembly. It has a rubber seal on it, but it is NOT part of the rebuild kit and it is not needed or indicated to remove it for any reason. Unfortunately, these are know to blow out, leaving you stranded, as you cannot drive the truck, as it will smoke your pump with no oil.

Do a little searching on the subject. May want to clean the paint out of the hole first so you get good adhesion, then touch up your paint.
 

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