My expedition hybrid trailer build.

[bmw635]

Here's some update- been busy with work and slow progress on the trailer. Forgot pics of the finished frame before the box build- I'll get it once we get the box off to paint/ powder coat.

Frame is zinc coated and painted as you can see- Sand blast and powder coat would have the same rust protection but cost more. Axles have manual parking brake with electric brake- not installed yet. I'll make a custom hubcentric adaptor to fit Cruiser wheel to the hubs.

Box is made of zinc coated 16G sheet metal to resist rust. I know 14G would have been better but too heavy as it will be framed with tubing inside later on for structural rigidity. Every sheet was cut and bended on CNC machines.

More update later as things progress.

 

[rocrunr]

That thing is awesome. You definitely have some mad skills and a shop full of cool tools always helps.Keep up the good work!! Can't wait to see more.

 

[bmw635]

Sheet metal work is done by the shop workers as I don't know how to program the cut and bend. It helps to be friend with the boss.

 

[Swartspan]

This......is.........awesoooooommmmmmmme!!!

 

[rocrunr]

Hey Bmw did you manage to get anymore done? Summer's a wastin! lol

 

[bmw635]

Should have some update in 1-2 weeks. No changes since last pic. Been busy.

 

[HesterFab]

That is AWESOME sheetmetal work. How does that 16 gauge do on the big flat panels? Does it "oil-can" at all when you push on it or does it stay pretty straight? I get in the habit of overbuilding everything but i'm always curious how it would have worked thinner.
Keep up the good work.

 

[bmw635]

The 16g metal is little thin for the box but should be fine for my expediton use: Alaska, Baja, and cross country. 14g would have been more solid but would weight more. I should have use 14g on box and 16g on upper 1/2 of the trailer. My main concern was weight, mileage for long distance than rugged off road.

It does have some oil can effect near the weld area because the sheet metals are warped. It would be more rigid if we stamp some groove onto the side like the bend on top- it would have the lateral strength like 14g. I plan to spray urethane foam to insulate and stiffen the sheet metal.

 

[ntsqd]

A trick that I've used on oil-can panels is to run a light weld bead across it in an 'X' on the side that doesn't show. I turn the heat all of the way up, turn the wire speed way down, and move pretty fast. It's going to be a "rat-chit" weld, but that's OK. The goal is just to cause some shrinkage along the weld lines so putting heat into the panel in the 'X' shape is the goal - not putting weld metal on the panel. This usually pulls the oil-can right out of the panel.

 

[bmw635]

Thanks for the tip on X weld pattern. That brought up an old body shop trick: using acetylene gas to heat up the sheet metal and spray water to shrink the sheet metal to pull it tight.

I may have to test on another scrap as the zinc coating smokes and smells like hill.

 

[Teotwaki]

Nice pictures Neighbor! Will have to stop by the shop and see it in person

 

[bmw635]

Finally picking up the pace again today.

 

[bmw635]

On the roll.

 

[ntsqd]

Upper side panels fold out?

 

[bmw635]

Yip, front and 2 sides. Roof will pop up. All the panels can slide off to make it a cargo trailer.

I was going to install the popup lift system but it was more complex and interfere with the under frame space that I need for water tank, storage, etc... The lift system could lift 300-400 lbs so you can install AC, kayak, bike on the roof and lift it, which is cool. I plan to install 4-24" gas lift 150lbs to pop the roof- that will give 6'6" headroom and enough force to lift the canvas covering the 3 popout.

 

[rocrunr]

Made some real progress on the trailer! Interested to see this unfold and the finished product. I see the spare mounted under the frame are you going to have space for water and waste water tanks etc.?

 

[bmw635]

Trailer is registered and at home so I can go over last details before painting body inside and outside. Any rec'd on paint /powdercoat/ plating? All the panels might scratch near the roof line. The paint on the frame is all scratched during construction so it will get repaint.

The spare can be thrown in the box for extreme ground clearance. There are 2 spaces in front of spare tire for 6-13 gal each- depend on how much ground clearance I want. Probably water, no gray. Space in rear of spare can accomodate 2 x 5 gal gas if I want- it helps with weight distribution.

Any recd for oval rear back up light to match oval tail light? The one I got is not as bright as I'd like.

As for the 16g metal box, the skin is surprisingly tight, not much oil can rattle so I am glad. Tongue weight is around 50 lbs and whole trailer unladen weight is @ 600 lbs. By the time I get 2 batteries, 2 water tanks installed forward of the axle, it will add another 200 lbs. Rearward of the axle will get 60qt fridge, portable 16g SS kitchen box which is about 150 lbs.

 

[ntsqd]

Once you go thru PC to the metal you're in trouble. I vote paint, and in a color that you can match with a rattle can. Say Rustoleum by the quart or gallon. If you want to get crazy on sealing the metal from rust pretty much forever (with the exact prep specified by the mfg) then look into the first coating being POR-15, Rust Bullet, or something like those two coatings.

In the past I have used POR and then top-coated with Rustoleum while the POR is still tacky. It takes a couple of days for the coating to fully cure, and it is easily damaged until it does cure, but once cured it looks and feels surprisingly like PC!

Check out the LED versions of the oval truck light back-up lights. I can't point to any one in specific as being good or exceptional. I kind of cheated on our camper and went with one of these 10W floodlights:
Amazon link

I will be wiring it into the reverse lights via a relay as well as on their own switch in the camper for work/cooking lighting while camping.

 

[bmw635]

Looks like your light is waterproof and directional so may be it can be mounted under the frame. The led backup I have is bright like flood but not spot so I may just mount next the tail light for general rear lighting. The lit area is small if mount on the 45 degree downward and on the back, it flood the entire back.

I may redo the roof in fiberglass so the corners can be rounded, light weight, and not scratch the sides. Just have to make the mold and lay the glass.

I'll get more pics later. Thx.

 

[Luke111]

Did you build or buy your traling arm suspension? Looks great

Lou