My Desmog Thread (9 Viewers)

[senatedestroyer]

So i'm in the process, and discovered something that i didn't see on any other post or photo. Its obviously part of the "smog" system.... but i can't seem to be able to remove the box (thank you previous negligent parents and rust)... and in addition, i can't seem to trace the pipe that comes off of it. heres the pictures.
the mysterious box.

and the elusive pipe(the small rusted thing running along the block)

 

[Trapper50cal]

I think thats the EGR cooler and the pipe leads to the bottom of exhaust on port 6 (where it gets plated off) It can safely be removed, the bolt bosses don't enter the oil res. IIRC)

Soak it in PB Blaster for a couple days...it'll come off.

 

[senatedestroyer]

right on.

 

[Brock]

also can try liquid torch...great stuff.

 

[rckhound]

Pulling my Hair Out!

Ok so I just did a full Jim C. desmog on my 87 fj60 using a MAF 2 piece header. I have gotten everything back together and have to vacuum lines and everything correct as far as I can tell and the thing runs like crap. Here are my problems and let me see If anyone can help. I have torn it down to the head and built it back up for exhaust problems and leaks but I believe the manifold/headers are good now.

1. Won't idle below 1000 rpms hardly at all
2. Stumbles and is loppy almost like its missing
3. Smells rich, uncombusted foul smell
4. Developed popping under dash/ never happened before
5. Doesn't seem like there is vacuum coming to primary on dizzy
6. Timing doesn't seem to stay consistent
7. RPMs don't seem to fall quickly/not a linkage problem
8. Now it gets lifter and rod noise like something is off

can't seem to find a vacuum leak have gone over everything a million times, plugs are all getting spark, new cap/rotor/ wires. Here is the kicker, after the last time I put it together the other day it ran perfect first start soooo smooth, idled perfect no noise got it down to 650rpms idled perfect, revved it up and back to running crappy. I live in Breckenridge so if anyone can help that would be awsome, I have to drive this everyday. Also carb has been rebuilt by Jim and Dizzy has been recurved. PLEASE HELP!!!!!! I am loosing my sanity!

 

[FJ40Jim]

1. Won't idle below 1000 rpms hardly at all

Check for ICS function. It should click when plugged in w/ KOEO.

2. Stumbles and is loppy almost like its missing
3. Smells rich, uncombusted foul smell

Is the float level visible in sight glass when idling? Does it creep up off the glass?

4. Developed popping under dash/ never happened before

This is a problem w/ the dissy cap ventilation system. Recheck that the vac and vent hoses are routed correctly. If OK, then test VCV.

5. Doesn't seem like there is vacuum coming to primary on dizzy

Put a vac gage on it, crack the throttle, what does it say? If you don't have a vac gage, I recommend buying an inexpensive mityvac because it is a gage and a vac pump for diagnosing.

6. Timing doesn't seem to stay consistent.

If it is actually changing, it could be the cam gear falling apart. Chances are it is dancing around because the RPM and the vacuum are dancing around.

7. RPMs don't seem to fall quickly/not a linkage problem

Excess air is getting into the engine. either the linkage is hanging the throttle open, or something is leaking (brake booster, mani gasket...)

 

[Brock]

Thought I would finish this morning but UPS is late with parts as they were routed through Illinois and parts house sent wrong size freeze plug. Asked them for 50mm....they sent two....install and think that WAS TOO EASY. Get out tool to measure and they are 49.6mm...the next size up is 50.8. So waiting on the REAL TOYOTA freeze plugs this time that were suppose to get first time.

Put freeze plug in manifold today...put in all the air rail plugs and the two plugs in thermostat housing though taking one out as I remember I need to leave one in for vacuum to BVSV for something...will get it when we button her up. Installed valve cover gasket...but no use mounting manifold with new gasket until I can do the freeze plug. So am at standstill until UPS arrives with last three goodies.

 

[senatedestroyer]

so i have most of everything removed. having one hell of a time with the manifold, the two bolts that connect from the exhaust are being stubborn. Pump is gone, egr cooler and lines, filters and hoses, and with any luck, the weber i'm going to drop in will eliminate the majority of the other vacuum lines. Trying to figure out an easier way to plug up the air rail ports as well as what the hell to do with the egr coolant line leading to cyl 6. Is it accessible without the manifold removed? or is that a vital step to completing the desmoging process?

 

[Trapper50cal]

so i have most of everything removed. having one hell of a time with the manifold, the two bolts that connect from the exhaust are being stubborn. Pump is gone, egr cooler and lines, filters and hoses, and with any luck, the weber i'm going to drop in will eliminate the majority of the other vacuum lines. Trying to figure out an easier way to plug up the air rail ports as well as what the hell to do with the egr coolant line leading to cyl 6. Is it accessible without the manifold removed? or is that a vital step to completing the desmoging process?

I removed air cleaner assembly in order to get to the air rail plugs... The EGR block off plate can be done from beneath with LOTS of extensions on your socket wrench. It may be a good idea to do the I/E manifold gasket just so you can eliminate it as a leak source (unless you're sure its GTG)

Oh and yes, it is essential to plug that port up on the exhaust manifold as it is now an open pipe releasing exhaust into the engine compartment now with the EGR cooler removed.

 

[senatedestroyer]

okay so the intake manifold bolts are locked tight. i can remove the exhaust from the manifold(which is cut right past the cat) and suppose the only thing left to do is remove the exaust manifold. Then i believe i can pull both out as one peice and take care of the intake from there. pb blaster works wonders, but not on this part. The pipe leading to cyl. 6 i just cut and pinched off.... thinking just a quick weld will prevent me from having to apply a plate... would this be negative in any way? air rail ports are sealed off with a caps i found at oriley's. next all i need to do is plug up the egr body... am i missing any steps here? still curious about the aftermarket carb that i'm going to put on in a month or so. If anyone has done a weber carb conversion with a desmoging, any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yes, the intake exhaust manifold is an assembly. Remove the fasteners to the cylinder head and take the manifold assembly off the engine.

Yes, it is Ok to cut & weld the EGR tube coming down from the bottom of the exh manifold.

Welding a bolt into the EGR fitting on the intake manifold is a good way to plug that also.

Every weber carb install is desmogged. Weber doesn't have provision for canister purge, hi-altitude, decel fuel cut, etc.

 

[senatedestroyer]

excellent. very close to finishing... hopefully tomorrow.. and pictures to come after my new carb application.

 

[senatedestroyer]

got my manifold(s) off and all the egr crap sealed off. Air rail sealed and set. Now all i need is a carb and i'll be rolling my newly desmoged fj60. thanks for all the help and insight fellas!

 

[Spike Strip]

What condition is the air rail?

Wanna sell it to one a us smog slaves here in CA ?

 

[Brock]

Okay mine is complete.....took off pretty much everything including HAC. Took quite a few looks at Trapper50cal pictures....the bar napkin drawings (haha) and reading in the thread to figure out EVERYTHING and where it goes once we had it ready for hook up. I did not take any pics of finished product but it is purring like a kitten. Like mentioned did remove HAC completely and swapped the vacuum advance and atmosphere lines as it was idling a bit high when warm.

Smoothed right out...no pinging or problems...no backfiring...no match smell...no stumbling. It was ice cold after sitting for almost 6 days....warmed her up for a minute and pushed choke in all the way and she was smooth as glass...best she has ever run. I am sure some of that was the new manifold gasket.....but hoping some was the desmog too. Let her run for 30 minutes after I pushed choke in completely....no leaks as I did hoses, belts, desmog, man gasket, valve cover gasket, oil cooler o-rings and crush washers, etc.

Took for a 10 mile drive...noticed I was on E so went back to check again with flashlight for leaks....cleaned shop with friend...and headed home. Drove like a champ all the way home.

Right away we noticed how smooth she was running...has not been that smooth in at least a year.

Then I noticed she would accelerate right up through 3000 rpms without any hesitation or flat spots like before...nice smooth pull through rpm range. Seemed to take much less throttle to get to same RPM level at speed.

Things left I did not get to- still need to remove CAT and replace with pipe...so just put a big plug in hose and clamped it tight for now to keep exhausts from pumping under hood. I also did not do the valve adjustment and they are a little noisy so will do at our next HAMOM. Other than zip tying things up tidy and neat everything else seems good.

Thanks for all the words and help here......but I really think someone energetic with the knowledge might consider doing a DESMOG with HAC, DESMOG without HAC, DESMOG with Weber, and then a full up DESMOG where you pretty much remove everything except AC Idle Up, Fuel Decel, Dizzy advance and vents, and whatever else is left like VTV... The info is here but is quite confusing to us novices with all the bad desmogs posted that get worked out later in thread...LOL

I would still be fighting with it myself if not for my buddy who is a good Toyota and Lexus mechanic with his own shop...and together we figured it out and got it done...without any rework or do-overs.

Thanks again. Will get some pics posted soon of the result.

I will also take pics of what is left for whomever might want them before they go in trash heap....

 

[senatedestroyer]

damnit i would, but the last port i had to bust off, the nuts on it are rusted and it has definitely seen better days. if its something you can work with i can send it to you for cost of shipping. pm me if your interested.

 

[senatedestroyer]

I will also take pics of what is left for whomever might want them before they go in trash heap....

i'll 2nd this, anything i have left over that is of use from a smog system anyone is free to have.

 

[Kief]

Just another tip reguarding the tube that comes up from the exhaust pipe- If you don't want to remove the exhaust pipe and don't want to have a stick shoved in the tube to block it another alternative I found was to cut the metal tube where it runs under the bracket where the HAC sits and weld a cap or plug it there and it still looks clean and the tube still has the bracket to bolt it to the fender.

 

[bandy rooster]

with a compilation of the trapper50cal plus that semi-legible component layout schematic with the x-s and s*** written on it.. i've got a list that will hopefully help some out:

HAC delete (specific)

Primary advance
• Advancer port on carburetor

Secondary advance
• Goes to port on air cleaner (3rd port)

Fuel deceleration
• Fuel cut port on carb. (top left) ( highest towards firewall)

Choke opener
• To air cleaner (2nd port)

VCV for EVAP (driver’s side)
• To aircleaner (1st port)
• BVSV
• Base of carb. Port (not modified)
• Evap canister (not modified)

BVSV (1)
• EGR R port on carb. (should be most forward port) toward headlights
• VCV on drivers side (top port)

Intake vacuum port
• Goes to three-prong gas filter on passenger side (bottom port)
• Replaced with single 1/8” port

CB
• Middle of three ports on carb (on front of carb)

what needs to be capped:
• Left and right ports are capped (on front of carburetor)
• Cap middle port on valve cover side of carb. (HAC Blow port)
• 2 large ports (26mm) where smog hoses attached
• EGR modification to allow PCV use
• Rear exhaust port should be plated or the down tube should be cut to allow for a plug to be welded ( allows proper seating which you won’t get from a flat plate)

 

[bandy rooster]

correct me please if i'm wrong or not clear on those explanations... not an expert just trying to share the details I have written for myself with you guys.