My Desmog Thread (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter fowldarr
- Start date
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I'm glad to see this thread @ this time as I am having some issues with the desmog the P.O. did. This is helping me to understand whats right...& what he did. Think I'll read through it a time or two again & try to soak it all up.
- Thread starter
- #323
All 11 pages of it too, if you have questions post up, and we'll try to help, Trapper is done with his, I'm almost done, and a few other experts have been watching this thread as well, feel free to post up some pics, and everyone can take a look and see what we see.
Butt Ugly Chuck
Fish Biologist
I know this is a "desmog thread", but a tip for those of us who have to remain smog legal: to avoid breaking those brittle BVSV nipples, put loops in your vac lines as explained in this thread.
Mileage -
Mine has been done for over 1000 miles. haven't checked a full tank of solid highway miles, but around town, sometimes hauling a HEAVY trailer (5500 lbs) , and on top of that, my rebuilt hopped up 2F, I can't keep the foot out of the pedal..... I am getting 12 mpg. not sure on highway driving.
Mine has been done for over 1000 miles. haven't checked a full tank of solid highway miles, but around town, sometimes hauling a HEAVY trailer (5500 lbs) , and on top of that, my rebuilt hopped up 2F, I can't keep the foot out of the pedal..... I am getting 12 mpg. not sure on highway driving.
I'm having trouble keeping out of the skinny pedal too, it just pulls so nice now.
I'm already @ 14 mpg average..16 hiway on long trips...if I can improve on that I'll be very happy
Indeed! I must have read this thread through 50 times and stared for hours at the desmog diagram until it finally clicked and I got to it. I just need a block off plate for where it hooks into the manifold, and to whack that pipe of my exhaust and weld it closed.
yuppers, The plate is EASY. Just buy the gasket and trace it onto some appropriate plate steel, cut it out, drill some holes and on she goes. Then The EGR cooler and associated piping can come off.
Only thing left is to plug front of the EGR valve at the manifold ( which may already be done) and the system is closed.
and like you say, the pipe headed to the exhaust, which I just plugged with a stick or approriately sized rock (as JimC would say) -actually a bolt and a hose clamp.
I read it (the thread) many times and looked over the diagram just as much, it didn't make sense to me until about half-way through doing it and having a mentor helping that had already done one. I still couldn't do the vacuum lines over by memory yet, needed to look back at my pictures.
- Thread starter
- #330
One of us should make about a dozen of those block off plates, and sell them with the gasket......just a thought. I haven't done mine yet, maybe when I do, I'll make some extras. Or does somebody already? I have no interest in doing something like that long term, so wouldn't want to set up any competition if anybody was doin it.
So to be clear, once I build the block off plate, then the EGR cooler can come off, then you do the Jim C approved mod to the EGR valve (as shown in the tech thread). That and vac hose replacement is all I got left. YEAH!
So to be clear, once I build the block off plate, then the EGR cooler can come off, then you do the Jim C approved mod to the EGR valve (as shown in the tech thread). That and vac hose replacement is all I got left. YEAH!
about 1/8" to 3/16"...somewhere in there, just thick enough to be able to compress that gasket (the weird semi metallic fiber sandwich kind) without deforming or bending the plate.
"Knock-On-Wood" anti-jinx incantation
1911
chupacabra
Man-A-Fre sells them; I bought it and the gasket from them when I de-smogged my 40 and it works great. $11 if you're too lazy to make your own:
MAF EGR Block Off Plate
Drove mine some yesterday. It had a slight hesitation so had a buddy check timing and it was retarded so we bumped it up to 7degrees and there was still a hesitation so backed it off to about 4 degrees i would say and she runs pretty good. I would imagine after the carb rebuild it will really run good.
I just filled up and I got 13.8 mpg on this last tank I need to replace the fan clutch ( always engaged ) as well as the plugs and wires which should bring me back up to the 15.5 I was getting 9 months ago when I first did this. I also have to adjust the timing ( haven't done that yet ) in addition to the valves, so I have hope.
After I install my H55, that should put me in the 17mpg range I think.
I need to replace the fan clutch ( always engaged ) as well as the plugs and wires which should bring me back up to the 15.5 I was getting 9 months ago when I first did this. I also have to adjust the timing ( haven't done that yet ) in addition to the valves, so I have hope.After I install my H55, that should put me in the 17mpg range I think.
well after driving mine some it really runs good on acceleration. while cruising it has a mis and hesitation. I am running the vacuum less mallory dizzy with ngk wires and plugs, timing is set to 7* tdc. Carb hasn't rebuild it but needs to be. I plan on sending it to Jim after Moab. I dont think i could get it to him and back in time.
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The vacuum advance provides the additional advance needed when cruising under light/part throttle conditions. Not having it will not cause a misfire, but having it might take away the hesitation or tip-in sag.
