Had to revive this thread. After reading through it again I'm wondering, are ports C and the unlabeled "advancer port" the same in that they are both ported vac fittings? Does it matter which one the secondary advance is connected to?
My Desmog Thread
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After getting my rig running at about 10pm last night, I switched the secondary vac with the primary, and it came to life? It is reverse of what the diagrams say for a desmog. I'm not sure if this is normal, but now my primary is connected to the carb vac and secondary is capped since I don't have another air fitting port. When I switched these 2 lines, it made a huge, huge difference.
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Sheehan, the timing is way retarded, so having all of the vac advance made a big difference on yours. Also, your dissy can was slightly bent in shipping, so it had to be setup to use the primary vac advance, because the HAC advance was essentially inop.
Most vehicles work better the other way.
I'm posting this after the fact, so I'm glad you figgered it out on your own.
Most vehicles work better the other way.
I'm posting this after the fact, so I'm glad you figgered it out on your own.
Ok with the Egr block off plate, does it block off the exhaust of the whole in the intake, i see you can get it at MAF but its in the exhaust section, so can i use this to block off the egr on the intake, im going to be getting the MAF headers with no egr port so im not worried about it there but what about the intake. thanks
If you use the block off plate you loose your PCV vac. Linked below is a cool trick to eliminate the EGR but keep the PCV vac.
To answer your question though, yes that particular block off plate from MAF will work in place of the EGR.
EGR removal - 83 2F desmog - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com
OK, I'm a noobie to this forum, but my Land Cruiser experience spans more than twenty years. Twice I have taken sickly running FJ60s, stripped ALL the crap from them, put Weber 38/38s on them with headers and fluid heat risers and they will run circles around a stock Cruiser. And they pass emissions at the pipe without air air pump, EGR or the twelve miles of tubing that is covering your engine bay. To run a header, you must get the old maniflod gasket that has individual exaust ports. I think that is an "F" gasket. Second, you have to pay attention to how tightly it fits at each bolt. You will have to cut some washers in half and use them as shims in order to pull it up tight to the head in some cases. I ran one for years without ever having a single problem or leak. A fluid heat riser will keep your engine happy in cold weather, I consider it a must. Also the air cleaners that come with the Weber kits are not sufficient for these engines, you must get a bigger air cleaner. In the end I had a super clean system that got good mileage, had tons of extra power and you could find and actually identify the items under the hood. Imagine a carb with only a vacuume advance tube, a fuel line and a hot wire to the electric choke. The first time I did this, I compared my smog test results from the stock setup with all the ettendant trash, to the cleaned up, modified version and it ran cleaner without the junk! A friend of mine is still driving one that I built, and I have never driven another 2F that was it's equal in power and driveability.
That's not true. Use the correct gasket, an F motor gasket, use the correct shims,(I cut washers in half where needed) to pull the exhuast up tight to the head. The problem is that the intake flange is one thickness and the exhaust headers vary, generally there will be one or two spots where they are thinner than the intake manifold so try as you might you cannot tighten the nuts enough to make the header seal up tight. The use of shims and the proper gasket will make for a happy ending. I ran one for 70K without a single issue, but I was very carefull when I installed it.
Why you say this?
If you scroll back up this thread, you will see a photo with both the gaskets in it. The 2F gasket has the exhaust ports on cylinders 2 and 3, also 4 and 5 paired with no divider between them. It makes for a very poor setup with a header, especially the cheap but effective 6 into 1 that MAF sells. It's a gauranteed leak with the 2F gasket. I also dislike the afetrmarket ones that are made of some sort of white material, they get brittle quick.
Using this thread as a guide, I dove in and did'er. Runs much smoother and seems to need less pedal pressure while driving. Fuel economy still blows but I haven't sent my carb and dizzy to JimC yet for a good rebuild. I also think I messed up the bearings in the smog pump during the de-vane so it squeels like a pig. I'll be doing the idler pully. The blingin' blue vacuum hose is from Spectra and is of the silicon variety. I would have prefered black but they didn't have it in silicon.
If anyone sees a mistake I have made please dive in and tell me what a bone head I am.
If anyone sees a mistake I have made please dive in and tell me what a bone head I am.
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effjay,
things that are good:
silicon tubing
A/C idle up
canister purge
Decel fuel cut
questionable things:
PCV valve in place, has a filter stuck on it
PCV pipe missing from intake
Crankcase vent hose on VC is stuck on AC w/ filter
manifold vac fitting missing from intake (source for dissy breather)
dissy vented direct to AC (leads to exploding dissy)
HIC disabled
CO connected to?
things that are good:
silicon tubing
A/C idle up
canister purge
Decel fuel cut
questionable things:
PCV valve in place, has a filter stuck on it
PCV pipe missing from intake
Crankcase vent hose on VC is stuck on AC w/ filter
manifold vac fitting missing from intake (source for dissy breather)
dissy vented direct to AC (leads to exploding dissy)
HIC disabled
CO connected to?
I'm not trying to be controversial, but I disagree with this. Yes, the inner portion of the gasket is missing, but there is still a solid seal between the exhaust and the rest of the manifold. So, it makes no difference if there is a leak between two adjacent exhaust ports. It's sealed from the remainder of the manifold.
Also, I do agree that there can be issues with the thickness of the flange. You can get washers (non-ideal) or machine both pieces (header + exhaust) to the same thickness. I went this route as opposed to guessing with washer thicknesses. You can't bolt up the intake and header like you can and should with an intake/exhaust manifold, but you can get them milled to the same thickness. I've read that some headers have significant issues with flange thickness, but as long as you check and mill it, you should be fine. I checked my intake thickness with my header thickness and it was off by a few hundredths. I cautiously had them both milled to the same thickness and reinstalled with new OEM bolts. The OEM bolts with washers fit and I have (I think) a nice tight seal.
thanks Jim, I'll do some mods tonight. I cut the PCV valvein half gutted it and welded it back together to serve as a pipe nipple. Is a lack of PCV a no no? The valve cover vent has a filter on it and the fitting on the air cleaner is capped (Trying to make my airfilter last). Is HIC the white one under the aircleaner? It's hard to tell on the diagram? What is CO? Thanks again for the help.
jasheehan, I had the intake flange machined to the same thickness os the header flange on a Heep I258 and was leek free for years before I sold it...and bought a cruiser...
jasheehan, I had the intake flange machined to the same thickness os the header flange on a Heep I258 and was leek free for years before I sold it...and bought a cruiser...
The PCV should be routed to a splitter where it goes into the HIC (under the air cleaner), and then around the back of the engine to the intake manifold. If it were smogged, this is where the EGR pipe connects to the intake(there is a pic o f this in post #68 of this thread...in that pic the EGR side is capped). The other side is a hard line that comes off the intake and turns into a 5mm??? vacuum hose that routes around to the PCV valve. The OEM PCV valve and grommet are pretty tough billet steel (the valve itself), so they would seem to last a while. The PCV serves a purpose to vent crankcase gases, so I'd return it to original configuration. I believe that the CO referred to is choke opener.
thanks Jash....my CO is hooked up yonder....see pic. post #70 says I don't need it, what do you guys think?
by the way...the most frustrating thing about all this stuff is the acronyms HIA, HIC, HAC, VCV, and so on and so forth. once you find out that for instance VCV stands for Vacuum Control Valve it's function becomes much more clear. Is there a guide to all these acronyms???
by the way...the most frustrating thing about all this stuff is the acronyms HIA, HIC, HAC, VCV, and so on and so forth. once you find out that for instance VCV stands for Vacuum Control Valve it's function becomes much more clear. Is there a guide to all these acronyms???
Yes- it's in the front of the FSM Emissions Manual, but you don't need that anymore since you're desmogged, right?
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PCV is a Good Thing(tm). It keeps the crankcase & oil cleaner, longer. Without PCV, moisture & acidity builds up in the oil and eats the engine.
Yes, it is the widget built into the bottom of the air cleaner.
The problem with your approach is that the cheap headers (MAF) only seal up to the head in a limited area, specificly right around the area where the individual tube is welded to the flange. The entire flange will never seal up to the head without extensive milling, at which point you will have removed the weld and now you have integrity issues. My experience has been that the 2F gasket is a whore to get to seal up with a header while the F gasket is easy. Just trying to save somebody the pain of failure...
sooo im diggin up this thread as its a gold mine for desmoggers, and hopefully i can add some to it as i was semi voluntarily forced to begin my desmog
i replaced the cat with a straight pipe a while ago, and devaned my smog pump today
now i need to do the rest in one quick swoop so i can keep my car running, as its my daily driver, so i need a shopping list of sorts
heres what i know i need and some questions
-6x 1/4 inch npt pipe plugs (air rail plugs)
-vaccuum line (how many feet? and what size is it?)
-rubber plugs (what size are things like the air cleaner ports and egr tube and smog pump tubes, anyone got a tally on this?)
will i need to use anything to block off places where egr bits were?
help me add to this for a complete list, it helps me organize it in my head, and would probably help future desmoggers who find this lil treasure of a thread
thanks yet again for all the knowledge gained from this site
i replaced the cat with a straight pipe a while ago, and devaned my smog pump today
now i need to do the rest in one quick swoop so i can keep my car running, as its my daily driver, so i need a shopping list of sorts
heres what i know i need and some questions
-6x 1/4 inch npt pipe plugs (air rail plugs)
-vaccuum line (how many feet? and what size is it?)
-rubber plugs (what size are things like the air cleaner ports and egr tube and smog pump tubes, anyone got a tally on this?)
will i need to use anything to block off places where egr bits were?
help me add to this for a complete list, it helps me organize it in my head, and would probably help future desmoggers who find this lil treasure of a thread
thanks yet again for all the knowledge gained from this site
