Dr. John
SILVER Star
Not quite. You need the solenoid in place and energized to keep the fuel on. Grounding the green wire bypasses the vacuum switch and keeps the solenoid energized.
My Desmog Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter fowldarr
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4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Hmmmmmm Well I was hopeful on the "green wire mod", I need to read up on it, only heard about it. Again, my truck runs great and there is no fuel cut solenoid anywhere? Or am I wrong?
Dr. John
SILVER Star
Looks like you have the green wire mod. See that green connector clipped to the carb, where your mystery wire goes? Follow that heat-insulated wire around the carb to the fuel-cut solenoid. TaDa! You're just missing the vac switch.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Okay, that makes more sense. Thank you for clarifying that. So the fuel cut it the cylindrical part mounted to the carb on the passenger side. Thanks again.
My apologies, I misspoke. The green wire mod bypasses the switch, not the solenoid. You’re good to go. I don’t have anything on my driver’s side fender and the truck runs like a champ.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
I have started what looks like a confusing search. I havn't ruled out just putting it back how it was after the fact. But I am reading all these post about the green wire mod being the white wire, and bi-passing the emissions computer...etc......But my Cruiser literally has no vacuum switch. The spade connector from the fuel cut vacuum switch was attached to a new wire that is both grounded to the fender, the air intake manifold, then splice connects to the actual green wire on the carb. Hmmmmm.....?????
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
THANK YOU. I looked again on the truck. No more confusion, just wish someone had explained the green wire coming from connector to ground is the white wire on the carb side of the connector!!! I did a double check. Mine happens to be spliced to a ground leaving that connector off the "Green Wire ==== that becomes WHITE on the other side of the connector. I like the idea of grounding it to the carb to clean the whole mess up! -----using the white wire.
VCV Question:
What is the purpose of the X port, in our (distributor) application? I've seen different places suggesting to T the X port into the air cleaner or the distributor lines. Do we even need it?
Playing with the vaccum pump, X seems to allow flow unless there is vacuum at S. Could we just cap it?
Also.. the PDF says to route the VCV to the air cleaner on the passenger side. Should that say driver side? I don't think I have anything ports on the passenger side of my AC.
What is the purpose of the X port, in our (distributor) application? I've seen different places suggesting to T the X port into the air cleaner or the distributor lines. Do we even need it?
Playing with the vaccum pump, X seems to allow flow unless there is vacuum at S. Could we just cap it?
Also.. the PDF says to route the VCV to the air cleaner on the passenger side. Should that say driver side? I don't think I have anything ports on the passenger side of my AC.
Dr. John
SILVER Star
Do you mean the VCV for Evap, or VCV for distributor purge? The S port on the VCV for Evap is T'd into the line from carb advance port to dizzy advance diaphragm so the valve is open only at higher rpm. The X port just supplies a source of "clean" air to the VCV to allow free movement of its diaphragm. Generic VCV valves use a little filter. Closing it off might inhibit the valve operation. VCV for Evap, X goes to one of the 3 little ports on the AC just in front of the carb. On the VCV for dizzy purge, both X and Y go to the port at the very top of the AC, on the passenger side.
Distributor.
Dr. John
SILVER Star
Did I answer your question?
Yes, thank you.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Its been a long awaited day. I finally tried starting Bluebird this afternoon, it was not happening today. I spent a few hours on it and gave up, but think I might know the problem?
So she turns over great, fuel is in the bowl window, she has spark. I rechecked all the dizzy wires and vacuum lines per the instructions. Even swapped out a VCV. Eventually I removed the air cleaner and kept trying... There is definitely vapor coming out of the carb. She also backfires out of the top of carb! I am thinking the timing is too far advanced or I got the dizzy reinstalled wrong. I followed FSM as close as I could. Any other ideas why she is not starting.????..fully rebuilt Jim C carb and Dizzy.
So she turns over great, fuel is in the bowl window, she has spark. I rechecked all the dizzy wires and vacuum lines per the instructions. Even swapped out a VCV. Eventually I removed the air cleaner and kept trying... There is definitely vapor coming out of the carb. She also backfires out of the top of carb! I am thinking the timing is too far advanced or I got the dizzy reinstalled wrong. I followed FSM as close as I could. Any other ideas why she is not starting.????..fully rebuilt Jim C carb and Dizzy.
Try pulling the dizzy and turning the rotor 180 degrees
I agree.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
@euclid537 & @Gsw234,
Thank you for your advice! I did it last night and tried starting this afternoon. She wanted to and stumbled but no dice. I decided lets go for 3rd time is a charm on the dizzy. I confirmed TDC much better this time, then looked at the rotor. It was at #5, I instantly knew I was off a tooth or two? Also the contact on the signal generator and the rotor base were lined up exactly and there was full adjustment in the mounting bolt both ways. I found it easier to turn the oil pump slot to almost 0 degrees because at 22 it the dizzy would not go down all the way.
Only issue I have now is a hissing noise on the manifold side. Pretty loud but cannot be heard from behind the wheel. Tested vacuum at a constant 18-19 at idle. I would expect it to fluctuate or bounce around if it was a leak, but what do I know?
Thank you for your advice! I did it last night and tried starting this afternoon. She wanted to and stumbled but no dice. I decided lets go for 3rd time is a charm on the dizzy. I confirmed TDC much better this time, then looked at the rotor. It was at #5, I instantly knew I was off a tooth or two? Also the contact on the signal generator and the rotor base were lined up exactly and there was full adjustment in the mounting bolt both ways. I found it easier to turn the oil pump slot to almost 0 degrees because at 22 it the dizzy would not go down all the way.
Only issue I have now is a hissing noise on the manifold side. Pretty loud but cannot be heard from behind the wheel. Tested vacuum at a constant 18-19 at idle. I would expect it to fluctuate or bounce around if it was a leak, but what do I know?
WOW. This is the most comprehensive (and convoluted) thread I've ever seen but overall it's brilliant. Purchased a well desmogged 85 about a year ago and really started to dive into it this summer. Like many have posted, after hours of reading and studying the pics it all comes together. Here are a few key conclusions that I had to realize to get my vac lines all perfect and the truck running great.
I'm at 7500+ ft and wheel a lot at around 9000 in the mountains so I deleted the HAC (manually advanced dizzy ~7*) and left the HAI, HIC, AC idle up and the choke stuff and decel which all works great.
1- Jim is the man
2 - HAC delete or no HAC delete makes a big difference when studying pictures. If you have a HAC delete pics with the HAC will really throw you off. With the HAC delete you have to manually advance the dizzy, plenty of info in the preceding 58 pages...
3 - Jim is the man
4 - It's not a guarantee where you want to plug the primary advancer from the carb. The primary and secondary on the dizzy can both be used and it depends on the condition of the dizzy and the diaphragms and might require some guess and check and then manual adjustment on the dizzy advance.
4a - With a HAC delete you can cap the unused dizzy diaphragm
5 - There are FOUR ports on the carb valve side. Some early posts and throughout refer to 3 ports. Depending on HAC status make sure you look over the diagrams carefully and cap the unused port
6 - Jim is the man
SO, here's the question. Just technical because I'm curious. The HAC provided advance to the dizzy at altitude and from what i've read also provided more air to the carb through the two front mounted ports that get capped with the delete. If we delete the HAC but are at altitude are we not providing the carb the additional air the HAC used to send? My truck runs great so this is just something i'm not clear on, not a make or break question.
I'm at 7500+ ft and wheel a lot at around 9000 in the mountains so I deleted the HAC (manually advanced dizzy ~7*) and left the HAI, HIC, AC idle up and the choke stuff and decel which all works great.
1- Jim is the man
2 - HAC delete or no HAC delete makes a big difference when studying pictures. If you have a HAC delete pics with the HAC will really throw you off. With the HAC delete you have to manually advance the dizzy, plenty of info in the preceding 58 pages...
3 - Jim is the man
4 - It's not a guarantee where you want to plug the primary advancer from the carb. The primary and secondary on the dizzy can both be used and it depends on the condition of the dizzy and the diaphragms and might require some guess and check and then manual adjustment on the dizzy advance.
4a - With a HAC delete you can cap the unused dizzy diaphragm
5 - There are FOUR ports on the carb valve side. Some early posts and throughout refer to 3 ports. Depending on HAC status make sure you look over the diagrams carefully and cap the unused port
6 - Jim is the man
SO, here's the question. Just technical because I'm curious. The HAC provided advance to the dizzy at altitude and from what i've read also provided more air to the carb through the two front mounted ports that get capped with the delete. If we delete the HAC but are at altitude are we not providing the carb the additional air the HAC used to send? My truck runs great so this is just something i'm not clear on, not a make or break question.
Fyi: the HAC tops out at around 4000ft so anything above that it won't make a difference.
If you want the carb to be able to pull more air, then you can connect those ports to filtered air from the air cleaner or outside.
This really won't make a difference as the HAC is designed not really to provide more air, but to make a CHANGE in the carb tune and dizzy advance based on reduced air pressure.
Since you will not be changing the amount of air going into the carb in any way once the carb is tuned it doesn't really matter if you have those ports open or closed as long as the carb is tuned for the altitude at which you are driving the most.
Hope that makes sense!
If you want the carb to be able to pull more air, then you can connect those ports to filtered air from the air cleaner or outside.
This really won't make a difference as the HAC is designed not really to provide more air, but to make a CHANGE in the carb tune and dizzy advance based on reduced air pressure.
Since you will not be changing the amount of air going into the carb in any way once the carb is tuned it doesn't really matter if you have those ports open or closed as long as the carb is tuned for the altitude at which you are driving the most.
Hope that makes sense!
Cool, yes that makes sense. I did a little guess and check with those ports and let them pull like you just mentioned and it made the truck run worse so I recapped them already and was just curious. I do need to spend a little more time with the carb tune, I just finished getting my advance really dialed in and everything purring but idle is bit high and pushing it pretty hard at 9000 ft often I figure I should probably get the mixture really well sorted out to max my 2F "power" and not do any long term damage. I can't believe this thread is still watched and replied to from 2006ish, and thank you for the quick reply!
Pulled the trigger on fuel injection. Starting the de-smog this weekend. I decided to go with a GM TBI set up. Purchased the kit by Affordable Fuel Injection. Includes all sensors, wiring harness, computer, TBI, adapter plate, fuel pump (external) and electronic distributor. The distributor is a option and allows the computer to control the timing. Since I operate from sea level to 8000+ having the computer control the timing made sense. I also like the idea that parts for this system are available at the local parts store if needed.
