You might just send it to his address on the TLC performance website and put a note inside. I just had one done and it took about 3 weeks.
My Desmog Thread
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Hey fellas. A previous owner of my truck attempted a de-smog by just ripping everything out. I'm in the process of going back and doing it right. Unless somebody suggests otherwise, I am planning a modified de-smog that bypasses the EVAP VCV and deletes the HAC.
1) My gas filter is missing/plugged. Do I need it? Can I feed the dizzy VCV from somewhere else?
2) Is the manifold-side connection for the PCV just a fitting, or has some other functionality? The PCV comes out the right side, then there appears to be a nipple that has been capped (yellow) on the left side. Could this be a good vacuum source for my dizzy VCV instead of the missing gas filter?
3) I have BVSV (1) port A connected to EGR R port. Without EVAP VCV, where should port B connect to?
4) The charcoal filter was missing, so I sourced an AC-Delco that is close enough. I plan to route this directly because it's just hard to justify an expensive VCV here. Is that ok? Where should I connect it to? One of the three ports on the air cleaner? Or the port at the base of the carb?
5) The PCV t-fitting is missing, and I need this for HIC. Can I get this at O'Reilly or is it a Toyota part?
Thanks, as always.
1) My gas filter is missing/plugged. Do I need it? Can I feed the dizzy VCV from somewhere else?
2) Is the manifold-side connection for the PCV just a fitting, or has some other functionality? The PCV comes out the right side, then there appears to be a nipple that has been capped (yellow) on the left side. Could this be a good vacuum source for my dizzy VCV instead of the missing gas filter?
3) I have BVSV (1) port A connected to EGR R port. Without EVAP VCV, where should port B connect to?
4) The charcoal filter was missing, so I sourced an AC-Delco that is close enough. I plan to route this directly because it's just hard to justify an expensive VCV here. Is that ok? Where should I connect it to? One of the three ports on the air cleaner? Or the port at the base of the carb?
5) The PCV t-fitting is missing, and I need this for HIC. Can I get this at O'Reilly or is it a Toyota part?
Thanks, as always.
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I believe its referred to in the desmog instructions as the "gas filter" its basically another vacuum source
Sorry, I think I misread your post originally, on my 60 their is one vacuum source directly under the carb and has a 90 bend up with a hose that goes into the VTV and attaches to "Y" and under that is the EGR stuff, I used a large brass treaded plug ( from Jim's store ) on the side that goes the direction of the front of the truck and the side is a metal pipe ( 6-7 inches) that connects to a rubber hose that gets routed over the valve cover to the PCV
.
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Thanks Ned. I edited my post for clarity and added a photo.
Also; any ideas/sources for a replacement HAI downtube?
Also; any ideas/sources for a replacement HAI downtube?
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Your trying to fix a de smog from a PO, but your missing pieces right? I run a modified de smog, I have a gm charcoal canister and a points distributor not the stock. At first glance from your picture like I said before, the hose with the screw in it goes to the vcv that has a hose going to the air cleaner, a hose going to the charcoal canister via a hard line and last but not least a hose going to the bvsv. The cab should be mounted on the drivers side fender as most the connections are on that side.
As for the advance on your ac, you need a vacuum supply that goes into vsv 1
The big silver tube coming off your carb gets a hose that goes to the charcoal canister.
It sounds like your biggest problem might be how to bypas the HAC? Right? Also you are following the desmog pdf guide right. It helps to print it and check the completed steps so you don’t get lost. Their should be some info on bypassing the HAC on here I did on my de smog but I didn’t need it anymore since I replaced my distributor
This is sort of a budget/frankenstein de-smog where I am deleting HAC, not running the EVAP VCV, and happen to be missing the gas filter.
Yes, I have the pdf printed out and I've followed it until now.
Sounds like it'd be better to just use the VCV I have for the EVAP circuit and to source a second for the distributor... or to do it this way.
I did notice that your gas filter port seems to be plugged like mine, and your PCV doesn't have a T in it. Are you running HIC/HAI?
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I think getting a second VCV is the way to go ( i might have one left over I would have to check )
I ditched the gas filter, with all I have by by passed it was nothing but a vacuum leak waiting to happen. ( I have do have this )
I guess you can cap the AC idle up if you don't have the vacuum switch to use, try to search for an alternative way? I will tell you those guys are fragile and I broke my last one and sourced another one from somebody on the forum.
Let me know if you want that stuff and we can figure out something.
I ditched the gas filter, with all I have by by passed it was nothing but a vacuum leak waiting to happen. ( I have do have this )
I guess you can cap the AC idle up if you don't have the vacuum switch to use, try to search for an alternative way? I will tell you those guys are fragile and I broke my last one and sourced another one from somebody on the forum.
Let me know if you want that stuff and we can figure out something.
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Other possible sources of manifold vac: AC idle up fitting on the power brake nipple, or tee the fitting at the top of carb for the CB.
No, there is nothing special to the PCV fitting in the intake. Yours has an earlier fitting threaded in w/ the extra vac nipple. Yes it is also a source for manifold vacuum.
Nowhere.
In the absence of a VCV, just dump it to atmosphere up high in the engine bay.
Definitely not a FLAPS part. It is make-able from brass tee with two 3/8" barbs and a small (1/4 or 3/16?) barb.
Other random notes:
The gasket sitting on top of the carb should be snapped into the air cleaner.
The small vac nipple on top front of air cleaner should be capped.
If the AC idle up VSV is missing, just turn the idle speed up to 750-800rpm.
City Racer has them:
Hot Air Tube for '75 to '87 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60
Reproduction hot air tube that fits below the air cleaner to route hot air from the exhaust manifold / heat riser. Fits '75 to '87 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40, FJ60 with either gasoline or diesel engine. Made with original style material sourced from Japan. Direct replacement for part #...
www.cityracerllc.com
Thanks Jim, this is a huge help.
The truck is very much in an "under construction" state right now
The air cleaner is just loosely sitting there for tubing measurements/routing. I still need to cap the fuel cutoff port on the carb and the port on the air cleaner. I'm debating pulling the AC and having it sandblasted while everything else is being addressed.
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HAI tube is not needed. The challenge with a 2F is keeping the intake cool.
Just to confirm.. should BVSV(1) port A still be connected to the carb, then? My understanding of the BVSV is that it allows vacuum to flow between the two ports once the engine is hot. If I don't hook anything to port B, then the carb EGR R port will be open to atmosphere.
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EGR R port should be capped, so it is not a vacuum leak.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Surprise finds under all the weeds. Thread idea?
Upon removal/replacement of all the vacuum lines I found one tucked away with a screw in the end of it near the VSV EGR rail on the fender. It was not until i removed most of the rail and not needed mess that I realized......I have no Fuel Cut vacuum switch. My truck ran great despite a marble sound coming from my air pump. Never back fired, temps always good....etc. The PO or PM had taken and grounded the wire that fed the switch. Is this a work around, or is something else going on? I know that switch is NLA. any suggestions? Thanks
For further info, the power lead to the switch was grounded on the EGR rail then to the bracket mounted to the front of the intake manifold, then they jumped the wire to the green wire that goes to the carb. One of those cheesy snap splicer deals.... and its a pink one! I have no clue how i never saw that till now!
Upon removal/replacement of all the vacuum lines I found one tucked away with a screw in the end of it near the VSV EGR rail on the fender. It was not until i removed most of the rail and not needed mess that I realized......I have no Fuel Cut vacuum switch. My truck ran great despite a marble sound coming from my air pump. Never back fired, temps always good....etc. The PO or PM had taken and grounded the wire that fed the switch. Is this a work around, or is something else going on? I know that switch is NLA. any suggestions? Thanks
For further info, the power lead to the switch was grounded on the EGR rail then to the bracket mounted to the front of the intake manifold, then they jumped the wire to the green wire that goes to the carb. One of those cheesy snap splicer deals.... and its a pink one! I have no clue how i never saw that till now!
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Yes, I believe this is what they call the “green wire mod”. When that wire is grounded, you no longer need the fuel cut solenoid.
