My bath remodel

[Redgrrr]

Your ant problem is more than likely moisture ants and if you get rid of the moisture they die or disappear, just clean them and their fecal matter up really well. Get some dry heat in there such as a radiator heater with a fan moving the air around, or a simple coil heater with a fan motor. stay away from propane as it puts alot of moisture in the air.

There is the theory that cracks suck! really ! the Caulking joint between the shower pan and the wall panels has to be a flexible waterproof joint such as 100% sylicone the two materials are expanding and contracting at a different rate, a crack forms and literary sucks the moisture in.

If your doing all the work yourself I can see you staying around $1,000 in expenses. Are you gonna reuse the shower pan? I have used the cheap bath tub paint from ACE and seen it work well for around thirty bucks as opposed to a new one that you have to make work in your opening.

When you cut the cement board and tile to fit over that lip in the shower pan leave it up 3/16 of an inch for expansion and a good waterproof joint Ive year old tile shower surrounds over fiberglass tub and shower pans develop leaks very quickly.

 

[Trollhole]

good job man.. if you have already thought of this just tell me to shut up..

the shower head that you are making, have you thought about the flow rate ? i have to tell people on a daily basis that there water heater is working just fine.
but your shower head is blowing 5 , 6 . sometimes 7 or 8 gals per minute.. or more

so your 50 gal water heater is completly drained after your 5-10 minute shower, or there abouts.

i have been seeing alot of full body showers lately with multiple shower heads. . wasting tons of water,,

I've got an 80 gallon hot water heater. I already took out all the water saver devices in the previous shower heads. I have no problem wasting tons of water as long as I can enjoy my shower.

Your ant problem is more than likely moisture ants and if you get rid of the moisture they die or disappear, just clean them and their fecal matter up really well. Get some dry heat in there such as a radiator heater with a fan moving the air around, or a simple coil heater with a fan motor. stay away from propane as it puts alot of moisture in the air.

There is the theory that cracks suck! really ! the Caulking joint between the shower pan and the wall panels has to be a flexible waterproof joint such as 100% sylicone the two materials are expanding and contracting at a different rate, a crack forms and literary sucks the moisture in.

If your doing all the work yourself I can see you staying around $1,000 in expenses. Are you gonna reuse the shower pan? I have used the cheap bath tub paint from ACE and seen it work well for around thirty bucks as opposed to a new one that you have to make work in your opening.

When you cut the cement board and tile to fit over that lip in the shower pan leave it up 3/16 of an inch for expansion and a good waterproof joint Ive year old tile shower surrounds over fiberglass tub and shower pans develop leaks very quickly.

I'm ditching the shower pan and going with a concrete bed and liner. I priced out a 4x6 shower pan and it was crazy expensive. I can make one tiled and all for under 300.

 

[Trollhole]

Very little done this weekend. I did get all the hardiboard down on the floor and the wife got most of the tile down around the crapper.

 

[bigndn]

When we did our custom remodel, we had the shower pan and wall hot mopped with tar. 100% waterproof.

 

[BattleWagon]

When we did our custom remodel, we had the shower pan and wall hot mopped with tar. 100% waterproof.

for a year.








... just fxxxing with you, it should last two. There was a membrane underneath as well though right? Tar isn't a permanent solution for anything.

 

[fsusteve]

truth, you still need membrane in there...tar will leak especially when subjected to constant water intrusion.

 

[Trollhole]

Other irritating thing is I've been looking for the same moen valve that is on the shower now so I can add another showerhead. Problem is no one carries that anymore. In fact they don't have any valves made anymore that are just made for a shower. All of them are made for diverter spouts. Everyone I have talked to say just to cap the spout outlet. So water has to make a 180 degree turn and then back up. I'm not pleased.

 

[mwalls54]

Other irritating thing is I've been looking for the same moen valve that is on the shower now so I can add another showerhead. Problem is no one carries that anymore. In fact they don't have any valves made anymore that are just made for a shower. All of them are made for diverter spouts. Everyone I have talked to say just to cap the spout outlet. So water has to make a 180 degree turn and then back up. I'm not pleased.

I just had to do this in the bathroom I am doing. Kinda sucks but unless you do a special order for showers only thats the way it has to be.

 

[Trollhole]

Got some more done this weekend. Tile is down on the floor. We grouted it yesterday. Now on to the walls.

 

[2020 Rocks]

Other irritating thing is I've been looking for the same moen valve that is on the shower now so I can add another showerhead. Problem is no one carries that anymore. In fact they don't have any valves made anymore that are just made for a shower. All of them are made for diverter spouts. Everyone I have talked to say just to cap the spout outlet. So water has to make a 180 degree turn and then back up. I'm not pleased.

I am in the middle of redoing our master bath. New corner shower, tore out the drywall to the studs, new floor etc. I am about as far along as you. I was able to buy a shower only valve, made by Moen, at Lowes. If you'd like I could see if they have more. It was about $65.00. The shark bites made doing the valve much easier since I am tieing into the origianl 1/2 inch copper water lines. MOving the drain to accomodate the larget shower we are putting in was a pain as i had to reroute a lot of copper water pipe in the basement (thankfully we have ranch).

Side bar, sorry to high-jack, but what type of barrier should be used under the pan? The think vinyl stuff that people use when building their own pan?

 

[Trollhole]

I am in the middle of redoing our master bath. New corner shower, tore out the drywall to the studs, new floor etc. I am about as far along as you. I was able to buy a shower only valve, made by Moen, at Lowes. If you'd like I could see if they have more. It was about $65.00. The shark bites made doing the valve much easier since I am tieing into the origianl 1/2 inch copper water lines. MOving the drain to accomodate the larget shower we are putting in was a pain as i had to reroute a lot of copper water pipe in the basement (thankfully we have ranch).

Side bar, sorry to high-jack, but what type of barrier should be used under the pan? The think vinyl stuff that people use when building their own pan?

I'm using the PVC barrier. I think it's something like 30mil. I've go a 3/4 OSB with a 1/2 layer of hardiboard. Then I putting down a paint on barrier I got at lowers just for the hell of it. Then a layer of felt paper then lat then a sloped mortar mixture. Then I'm putting another coat of that barrier paint. Then my pvc barrier then another layer of mortar, thinset and tile and then sealing it all. Ain't no way this is going to leak.

If I can just get a part number for the valve that would help.

Thanks

 

[pillguy]

for what it is worth, we (me and junior) had to do a 5th grade science experiment looking at sealing compounds for cement block, (UGL hydraulic cement came in first followed by UGL paint)
Actually compared them in H20 for up to 2 weeks.

Lets just say regular spray paint and automotive undercoating suck.

 

[Toyo FJ40]

Other irritating thing is I've been looking for the same moen valve that is on the shower now so I can add another showerhead. Problem is no one carries that anymore. In fact they don't have any valves made anymore that are just made for a shower. All of them are made for diverter spouts. Everyone I have talked to say just to cap the spout outlet. So water has to make a 180 degree turn and then back up. I'm not pleased.

The moen 3 port valve is only avalable in the non pressure balanced valve. You should use a posi temp anyway it's a pressure balance anti scald for not much more money. You can allways pipe the spout line to the shower head if you want less restriction but if you look at the internal ports it doesn't make much flow differance.

 

[2020 Rocks]

Moen Adler L82691

Moen - Adler: L82691 customer reviews - product reviews - read top consumer ratings

I'm using the PVC barrier. I think it's something like 30mil. I've go a 3/4 OSB with a 1/2 layer of hardiboard. Then I putting down a paint on barrier I got at lowers just for the hell of it. Then a layer of felt paper then lat then a sloped mortar mixture. Then I'm putting another coat of that barrier paint. Then my pvc barrier then another layer of mortar, thinset and tile and then sealing it all. Ain't no way this is going to leak.

If I can just get a part number for the valve that would help.

Thanks

 

[agomez]

nice tile work...

 

[Trollhole]

Oh and if you run the shop vac with just the cartridge on it and suck up hardiboard and thinset dust it will burn up in about 5 minutes flat. Especially when the cartridge falls off.

 

[fj40charles]

Nice job on the remodel.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

All those black dots are dead ants. We would see one or two ants every week or so. I didn't think it was a big problem. When I started tearing into everything they started pouring out. Millions of them. This is on the second floor of my house. Crazy.

I don't know if it's true or not but I worked with a guy that said ants feed on termites as a food source. But this was experience from Indiana and not SC.
I'm sure you would see termites if they were present.


Good luck with the remodel. I have to post up some of the progress I've done lately. Heated floors are great!!!

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

I'd run the membrane up at least a foot for that shower pan.

X2 on the membrane.

Schluter systems is really good education on keeping moisture out of the sub-structures. They run the membrane around the entire shower and up to the ceiling. The Kerdi material is a great product but I wonder if you could use Tyvek as the same concept and for a fraction of the cost.

 

[Trollhole]

A little more progress.

I'm going with slate on the tub surround and the floor of the shower. I've got to find something that will seal the slate and give me a gloss finish and hold up.