Had an alignment done last week. Big change in the front toe specs. Does this mean the truck maybe hit a curb at some point?
My bad toe.
- Thread starter PDoyle
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TLC2013
SILVER Star
This topic of toe aligment is something I wanted to pick the brains of the mud experts. @linuxgod @Taco2Cruiser @TeCKis300
I understand the LCA bolts need like 207 foot pounds of torque to prevent any movement. What are the toe specs?
After swapping in my highway all season tires (same tire size but different wheel offset) I noticed the LC would pull to the right. Had an alignment done and the right side toe was way off. Went from +.12 to something like "-.8". Camber/caster stayed about the same just the toe was out of whack.
Driving by braille is my better halfs passion, has never seen a curb she doesnt love lol.
I understand the LCA bolts need like 207 foot pounds of torque to prevent any movement. What are the toe specs?
After swapping in my highway all season tires (same tire size but different wheel offset) I noticed the LC would pull to the right. Had an alignment done and the right side toe was way off. Went from +.12 to something like "-.8". Camber/caster stayed about the same just the toe was out of whack.
Driving by braille is my better halfs passion, has never seen a curb she doesnt love lol.
It is true that tire size and control arm eccentric bolts will have an effect on front toe, but the adjustment is in the tie rods. If you add any kind of permanent weight to the front axle and or change the tire size in anyway, it will effect toe angle.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
The jam nut is 60 ft lbf.
I will always say, that any alignment measurement, is only as good as how close the measuring tools were placed back in the wheel. Combine that with how heavy the guy got out of the truck, or how close he set the steering wheel with a tool that basically mashed the steering wheel tight up against the front of the seat cushion.
That’s why alignments are not very precise. They just are not. When I do them, the truck gets alighted technically three times. Without changing anything, you’ll get slightly different values, so I take averages. Then what really matters is how it feels once camber and toe are at factory specs. Caster is a personal preference thing that won’t harm tire wear (within reason).
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Actually, the before toe alignment looks reasonably good. By some standards, and the alignment seems to vary with model years, it's in spec. Just a touch of toe in which isn't necessarily a bad thing for tracking and stability. I wouldn't say it hit anything. The after touched up alignment is also good depending on alignment standard they were shooting for and what you might be looking for as a driver.
For front toe, it helps to see total toe. Sometimes the steering wheel is just off center which may make one side seemingly way off. Though -.8 is a pretty large number. Wholly possible it got out of whack.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
Thanks @Taco2Cruiser. I'll crawl underneath and double check their work. Anyone know if those computerized machines prompt the alignment techs of the specific torque numbers for like LCA bolts and the aforementioned jam nut ?
As i was hovering over the tech it looked like the alignment computer was giving prompts as the caster/camber were being adjusted.
Dumb question, what exactly (physically) gets knocked out of alignment? I understand the eccentrics can get moved under certain situations, but what about toe only? You have essentially a hydraulic ram that’s rigidly connected to the knuckle via all thread. What exactly is being pushed/moved/knocked out of position?
- Thread starter
- #9
I picture the threads on the outside tierod being pushed in to knock it out of alignment. Isn't that still the weakest link?
I just installed 1.25" spacers and new larger tires if that makes any difference.
I asked the guy doing the work if I should get an alignment after installing the spacers. He said yes. I was there to have the alignment done anyway.
I just installed 1.25" spacers and new larger tires if that makes any difference.
I asked the guy doing the work if I should get an alignment after installing the spacers. He said yes. I was there to have the alignment done anyway.
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
If I move the wheel forward or backward by changing caster from rotating the cam bolts on the lower control arm, I will also change toe. So if you knock cam bolt to spin a bit, then it’s all messed up. caster, camber, and toe. What I do, and recommend is that if you have a super awesome
alignment, mark your cam disk with a paint pen, or take very good notes about where the cams are at. If you knock the truck out of alignment, you can simply put it right back to where it was and all will be good with the world. For the steering linkage itself, there is no play, if there is, components need to be replaced.
@PDoyle, adding wheel spacers and larger tires does not mean you need an alignment. Alignment is off the hub, not the tire. (It should be off the tire, but unless you go to a guy who sets up competition cars, you will be getting a tool bolted to your wheel, which has zero movement in relation to your hubs.) Moving a wheel outward equal lengths on both sides of an axle does not change anything. Going to a larger tire does not change the hub position. Unfortunately your alignment guy either is uneducated, or wanted to make some money.
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