My aftermarket CV experience (1 Viewer)

[Travis Bickle]

Also a story I can share about aftermarket CV axles... one time I had a customer come in with a grinding noise from the front end (they were passing through doing some camping) I inspected the truck and the R/S axle seal was leaking badly, diff ran out of oil and s*** the bed. So to get them back on the road to limp it home I replaced the seal, after filling up the diff and road testing it the seal was leaking again! Come to find out they had both front axles replaced recently, for whatever reason the R/S one wasn't machined correctly and wouldn't make a seal. They ended up taking it back to the shop that replaced them and filed a warranty claim with Carquest and they ended up paying for a replacement differential.

IMO getting a rebuilt OEM from CVJ is the best option, but you need to have OEM cores to send them in exchange. I've installed many CVJ rebuilt units with no issues (half price of new OE) I rebooted my 300k mile axles last year but have some front end vibration and will get CVJ units sooner than later.

I can get axles for cost from Toyota and it's still super expensive, this is why i'm not a true deep pockets 100 series owner
Although I value my time too much to be changing out crappy $50 axles constantly. You get what you pay for 100%.

 

[64fabius]

Hi guys,
few months ago, I had to change both CV front axles. So I chose aftermarket products that I saw on Partsouq web catalogue: they were HKN NN1211 front axles shaft.
I preferred to buy them instead of Toyota OEM because the HKN axles were made in Japan and they were cheaper than the genuine axles.
But after about 1500 miles, a vibration appeared between 40 to 70 mph during accelerating and when my mechanic checked the CV axles, he verified that both were slack as the olders.
Now, I've ordered genuine CV axles by Megazip.

 

[shtbrwn86]

I have about 2.5" lift with a diff drop.
Well, almost exactly a year and 10k miles later the OEM boot split - I think if I need another CV, I will try an aftermarket again.

So one thing I’ve wondered about is how the OEM axles hold up on AHC rigs for those who wheel them? I don’t do anything hardcore but when I do go out I definitely use the lift. Granted it’s temporary but when it’s lifted I’m pushing them harder than they normally would be pushed. Mine are original (pretty sure) and one side completely tore and the other side started spewing grease after my first few trips out.

 

[ramangain]

So one thing I’ve wondered about is how the OEM axles hold up on AHC rigs for those who wheel them? I don’t do anything hardcore but when I do go out I definitely use the lift. Granted it’s temporary but when it’s lifted I’m pushing them harder than they normally would be pushed. Mine are original (pretty sure) and one side completely tore and the other side started spewing grease after my first few trips out.

That's a boot issue, not an issue with the axle mechanicals.

 

[shtbrwn86]

That's a boot issue, not an issue with the axle mechanicals.

Yeah I guess I really meant the boot not the internals. Just wondering how often I might need to replace the boots if I do some moderate off-roading.

 

[Kalino_74]

Hi guys,
few months ago, I had to change both CV front axles. So I chose aftermarket products that I saw on Partsouq web catalogue: they were HKN NN1211 front axles shaft.
I preferred to buy them instead of Toyota OEM because the HKN axles were made in Japan and they were cheaper than the genuine axles.
But after about 1500 miles, a vibration appeared between 40 to 70 mph during accelerating and when my mechanic checked the CV axles, he verified that both were slack as the olders.
Now, I've ordered genuine CV axles by Megazip.

Hey 64Fablus, I read your post about the aftermarket CV's causing driveline vibrations and was wondering if the new OEM CV's cured your vibration issues? Thanks

 

[64fabius]

Hi Kalino_74,
the new OEM CV's are working perfectly, at the moment....

 

[Dagtwo]

I put on a cordone HD on my passenger side about 3 months ago. Now I'm getting a rotational clicking noise. I was thinking it was the new brakes, rotors, or bearings I put in at the same time. Went through everything with a fine tooth comb and couldn't figure out the issue. Gave up and dropped it off at Firestone and they couldn't figure it out either. Now I'm leaning towards the AM cv being the culprit. I still have the OEM and have a rebuild kit. Gonna slap the 190K mile cv back it to see if the click goes away.

 

[Mauser]

After about 20,000 miles I had the inside boot rip on my aftermarket cv. I run lifted on 34" tires without a diff drop so it was expected. Threw one of my other new axles in and hope to get at least as many miles from this one. I will save the old one and reboot to have as a spare.

 

[ramangain]

After about 20,000 miles I had the inside boot rip on my aftermarket cv. I run lifted on 34" tires without a diff drop so it was expected. Threw one of my other new axles in and hope to get at least as many miles from this one. I will save the old one and reboot to have as a spare.

You can always just redo the outboard part of the one you helped me replace in a pinch.

 

[DTCsk8er]

I've been daily driving the CARDONE SELECT 665185HD CVs from rockauto ($62/CV at the time) since 2018. Not a single hiccup, other than being slightly tight to install the hub gears. Looking at my gas logs, I've put about 38k miles on these so far.

Also, I'm lifted, w/o a diff drop, and occasionally hit trails. Based on all the people ragging on aftermarket CVs, I thought I would have been in trouble by now.

Well, I finally had both CVs start slinging some grease from the inner boots (estimated about 55k miles so far). Both boots from the HD Cardone CVs are ripped in different locations. No clicking yet, but I am sure it's just a matter of time. Cardone requires the Warranty to be honored by the parts house, so got in touch w/ Rockauto..

Ruh roh.. they no longer make this part. They still have the non HD option, as well as a couple cardone reman options. If you click through the prompts, it then makes you ship the parts to them (on your dime) to get back a refund or credit.

So at least I'll get my money back minus the shipping cost to send these heavy CVs back to Rockauto.

Still I did get a good amount of miles on these cheap CVs, while lifted without a diff drop and a few wheeling trips in as well.

 

[KamalMani]

After about 20,000 miles I had the inside boot rip on my aftermarket cv. I run lifted on 34" tires without a diff drop so it was expected. Threw one of my other new axles in and hope to get at least as many miles from this one. I will save the old one and reboot to have as a spare.

Hi Mauser. How is your experience with the GSP axle so far? Did you use a new Axle hub? Do you have pictures of the splines compared to OEM axles ? I have a 2" ironman lift on my LX but I'm planning to remove it for an OEM LC shock as I don't like the way it rides for my use. I have a diff drop as well. I am planning to change control arm bushings and ball joints soon. I'm just not ready to spend the $900 for OEM axles. I do have some grinding issues so rebooting is not the best solution. Looks like Toyota is selling a Reman CV (Remanufactured Shaft Assembly, Front - Lexus (43430-60040-84) which is basically a rebranded Cardone axle with a 1-year warranty. With GSP, there is a lifetime warranty.

 

[indephenit]

I've been daily driving the CARDONE SELECT 665185HD CVs from rockauto ($62/CV at the time) since 2018. Not a single hiccup, other than being slightly tight to install the hub gears. Looking at my gas logs, I've put about 38k miles on these so far.

Also, I'm lifted, w/o a diff drop, and occasionally hit trails. Based on all the people ragging on aftermarket CVs, I thought I would have been in trouble by now.

I had the cardone ones and they would absolutely not slide into without hammering and ultimately the hub flange would not slide over the splines more than halfway.

 

[DTCsk8er]

I had the cardone ones and they would absolutely not slide into without hammering and ultimately the hub flange would not slide over the splines more than halfway.

I recently converted to part time, using my Cardone CVs. When I initially installed these axles, they were definitely difficult to get through the hub gear. When I went to remove the hub gears, I noticed it was still tight, but manageable with a few brass punch hits; nothing excessive.

 

[Dominic Nicandri]

Based on this thread, I purchased the same CVs. A side note, Rock Auto now carries this brand too. I had no trouble installing. Initial impression is they seem fine. The OEM ones are just stupid expensive. Can't justify the price difference.

 

[SteveH]

I just replaced my RF axle with a (new/Chinese-made) Cardone HD axle from Rock Auto (even though I loathe most Cardone 'reman' parts). I had to tap on the drive flange to to get it on, which at least means its tight on the splines. I will report back here if it blows up, clicks, or the boots split. I have low expectations, but it was only $80 + shipping. The last owner replaced the other axle with one from Carquest, and the inner boot clamp broke (I replaced it with a hose clamp) and the outer boot clamp is leaking. Sigh!

 

[Beauski100]

I just replaced my RF axle with a (new/Chinese-made) Cardone HD axle from Rock Auto (even though I loathe most Cardone 'reman' parts). I had to tap on the drive flange to to get it on, which at least means its tight on the splines. I will report back here if it blows up, clicks, or the boots split. I have low expectations, but it was only $80 + shipping. The last owner replaced the other axle with one from Carquest, and the inner boot clamp broke (I replaced it with a hose clamp) and the outer boot clamp is leaking. Sigh!

ooo you are soo bold. but really. Curious to hear how it goes.