My '97 Maintenance and Transformation Thread
- Thread starter dranven
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- Thread starter
- #104
Ok, so change of plans on the rod bearings. I was initially going to replace them on a case by case basis (I thought perhaps I would get away with only replacing 1 or 2). Well, 4 of the 6 are bad enough to warrant replacing, so I decided I might as well replace all 6. So, the bearings should be here in a few days and in the meantime, all the pistons were removed and cylinders honed.
IMHO, at this point, just pull the block and do a full over jobber. You are this close and then you won't have to worry about anything for another 300K miles.
Good work so far and good documentation.
Good work so far and good documentation.
- Thread starter
- #106
IMHO, at this point, just pull the block and do a full over jobber. You are this close and then you won't have to worry about anything for another 300K miles.
Good work so far and good documentation.
Thanks. I'm just not up for it. I'm overwhelmed enough as it is, lol.
Ok, so here's a shot of all my rod bearings.
Here's one of the new ones going in.
No. 2 piston going in first.
And they're all in!
Now I need to finish cleaning the bottom of the block, so I can put the no. 1 oil pan back on. Should be fun...
- Thread starter
- #110
Head ready to be installed.
Sidebar: There was damage to the no. 6 piston as noted in this thread. Lots of people were asking about the head and the valves. When the head was ready from the shop, they called me and said, "Ok it's all ready to go!" I asked them specifically about any damage or any problems and they said, "Nope, everything was great."
So, until last night, the head was wrapped in plastic wrap and cardboard and I had never unpackaged it. Well, here's what the head looks like. There is obvious damage to no. 6 and a little bit on no. 2. I just don't really understand why they didn't mention this damage to me.
Sidebar: There was damage to the no. 6 piston as noted in this thread. Lots of people were asking about the head and the valves. When the head was ready from the shop, they called me and said, "Ok it's all ready to go!" I asked them specifically about any damage or any problems and they said, "Nope, everything was great."
So, until last night, the head was wrapped in plastic wrap and cardboard and I had never unpackaged it. Well, here's what the head looks like. There is obvious damage to no. 6 and a little bit on no. 2. I just don't really understand why they didn't mention this damage to me.
- Thread starter
- #111
Headgasket on the block and ready for the head to be put on.
And the head is on and torqued down (29 ft lbs)
It was interesting trying to get it over the cam gear and dealing with the zip tie issue to keep it from falling off the timing chain at the bottom.
What ended up happening was this:
I was in the truck. Left foot on the passenger motor mount, right foot on the frame where the radiator would be if it were in the truck. I held the head at the engine hook points and it was my dad's job to cut the zip tie on the cam gear, loop a wire through the top of the cam gear and through the head, then hold the cam gear up while he sort of maneuvered the head into position while I essentially acted at the crane.
Kinda difficult to describe, but that's how we got it done.
And the head is on and torqued down (29 ft lbs)
It was interesting trying to get it over the cam gear and dealing with the zip tie issue to keep it from falling off the timing chain at the bottom.
What ended up happening was this:
I was in the truck. Left foot on the passenger motor mount, right foot on the frame where the radiator would be if it were in the truck. I held the head at the engine hook points and it was my dad's job to cut the zip tie on the cam gear, loop a wire through the top of the cam gear and through the head, then hold the cam gear up while he sort of maneuvered the head into position while I essentially acted at the crane.
Kinda difficult to describe, but that's how we got it done.
- Thread starter
- #112
Question on cam shaft installation if anyone can help:
I have the no. 1 piston at TDC right now and the FSM calls for putting the intake cam in with the no. 1 lobe pointing downward at an angle. I don't know how far down the valve will be pushed, but am concerned it will contact the piston. Is this not an issue? The FSM also calls for setting it to TDC after install and turning the cams to line up some marks before putting the cam gear on. This would lead me to believe there's no danger of spinning the cams around and pushing a valve into a piston, but I wanted to ask and see if anyone can provide some knowledge before I do anything.
I have the no. 1 piston at TDC right now and the FSM calls for putting the intake cam in with the no. 1 lobe pointing downward at an angle. I don't know how far down the valve will be pushed, but am concerned it will contact the piston. Is this not an issue? The FSM also calls for setting it to TDC after install and turning the cams to line up some marks before putting the cam gear on. This would lead me to believe there's no danger of spinning the cams around and pushing a valve into a piston, but I wanted to ask and see if anyone can provide some knowledge before I do anything.
I'm pretty sure it won't contact the piston. I recently did mine with no issues, following the FSM for #1 @ TDC and installing the intake per the directions. Then you "roll" the exhaust camshaft into place carefully and walk its caps down per the manual. After that, you rotate the cams in unison about 180 degress to where the correct set of dots line up and install the timing chain. During all of this, the crank doesn't get rotated, and I didn't feel any resistance, so I'd say you're fine.
I see where you torqued your headbolts to 29 FT-LB. Did you do the two 90 degree steps as well? I'm sure you did, but I'd hate to feel like an idiot if I didn't ask and you hadn't done it.
I'm not sure, but I don't think you have to worry about the chain falling off the bottom gear if you have the front cover in place. I was in the same boat, all worried and careful, but the manual said to just cut the cord holding the chain. I do know (from ConcreteJungle's thread) that you should not rotate the crank unless you're pulling up on the chain or it will eat the front cover. Also, I think it would be considered a bad idea to rotate the crank backwards. It looked like the chain was moving the spring loaded tensioner when I moved it back a hair, so I quit and only went forward.
Keep up the good work! I am impressed with your work so far.
I see where you torqued your headbolts to 29 FT-LB. Did you do the two 90 degree steps as well? I'm sure you did, but I'd hate to feel like an idiot if I didn't ask and you hadn't done it.
I'm not sure, but I don't think you have to worry about the chain falling off the bottom gear if you have the front cover in place. I was in the same boat, all worried and careful, but the manual said to just cut the cord holding the chain. I do know (from ConcreteJungle's thread) that you should not rotate the crank unless you're pulling up on the chain or it will eat the front cover. Also, I think it would be considered a bad idea to rotate the crank backwards. It looked like the chain was moving the spring loaded tensioner when I moved it back a hair, so I quit and only went forward.
Keep up the good work! I am impressed with your work so far.
- Thread starter
- #114
Thanks for the reply. Well, looks like you saved my butt. I did not do those extra steps. It wasn't for lack of reading the FSM, but I guess I didn't understand it. I interpreted the instructions as it wanted me to torque the bolts up to the number torque value using 90 degree turns.
I dunno, like I mentioned at the beginning of the thread, I'm no master mechanic, and this is new territory for me. I'm used to just torquing to the number value. It doesn't make sense to me why it would say torque to a number value, then torque additionally to something beyond that and not even give a number value.
So, it sure it a good thing you chimed in. Thanks so much! I am glad I mentioned the torque value to prompt you to bring it up.
Now, this raises another concern... There was one other place this type of instruction came up, which was on the rod bearing caps. I torqued down to 35 ft lbs using 90 degree turns, but I suppose the instructions are to be interpreted the same way, so it is really 35 ft lbs plus one more 90 degree turn.
Will the bearing caps be ok at 35 ft lbs, or do I need to remove both oil pans again and torque them with the extra 90 degree turn?
I dunno, like I mentioned at the beginning of the thread, I'm no master mechanic, and this is new territory for me. I'm used to just torquing to the number value. It doesn't make sense to me why it would say torque to a number value, then torque additionally to something beyond that and not even give a number value.
So, it sure it a good thing you chimed in. Thanks so much! I am glad I mentioned the torque value to prompt you to bring it up.
Now, this raises another concern... There was one other place this type of instruction came up, which was on the rod bearing caps. I torqued down to 35 ft lbs using 90 degree turns, but I suppose the instructions are to be interpreted the same way, so it is really 35 ft lbs plus one more 90 degree turn.
Will the bearing caps be ok at 35 ft lbs, or do I need to remove both oil pans again and torque them with the extra 90 degree turn?
If it says they need to be set to 35ft lbs then turned 90* you absolutely have to do that. the little bit of work now to do this will cave you an engine when you first start it, trust me that missed step is critical.
dranven said:
Torque turn is exactly that.
Tighten to 35 ft.lbs
Mark all bolt heads with paint at 9 o'clock position
Turn the bolt an extra 1/4 turn using a breaker bar or large ratchet
Confirm that all your paint marks are now at 12 o'clock.
where did you get your gasket kit? i'm looking to get one
Main bearing caps fall into this situation as well. I guess you didn't pull the mains, so at least you got that going for ya... 
So, to rehash:
Mains = Torque Value per FSM +90 degrees. Walk them up evenly too.
Rods = Torque Value per FSM + 90 degrees.
Head Bolts = Torque Value at two different steps, all the way around several times for each, then 90 degree more all the way around (following the pattern!), and another 90 degrees all the way around.
You should find during the first couple rounds of torquing that the bolts get a bit more turn before the torque wrench clicks. As soon as you can make a round with click only, no turn, then advance to the next torque setting, or the first round of 90 degree turns. Make sure you lube your head bolts with motor oil per the FSM. A bit under the bolt heads too.
I used ARP studs, the Opel ones, on my build and torqued them to 80 per the ARP directions. I did walk them up incrementally in the pattern. I have numbers 1 through 14 written on my valve cover ledge in nice Sharpie blue. It was too easy to get lost in the pattern.
Geez Ian, I'm really glad I was able to help. I was actually hoping you would say "Yeah, I did that too." At least you weren't posting trying to figure out why your head gasket leaked or why a rod let loose...
Scraping all that FIPG is going to suuuck... When you pull the pan, you might find some of it still not cured. Walk away for a day. It's a LOT easier to remove when it isn't sticky. Stock up on single edge razor blades and beer. Save the beer for when the job is done though.
Glad you remembered the rod caps now too.
It takes a hell of a man to admit he screwed up. :whoops: You have my utmost respect sir!
Jim
So, to rehash:
Mains = Torque Value per FSM +90 degrees. Walk them up evenly too.
Rods = Torque Value per FSM + 90 degrees.
Head Bolts = Torque Value at two different steps, all the way around several times for each, then 90 degree more all the way around (following the pattern!), and another 90 degrees all the way around.
You should find during the first couple rounds of torquing that the bolts get a bit more turn before the torque wrench clicks. As soon as you can make a round with click only, no turn, then advance to the next torque setting, or the first round of 90 degree turns. Make sure you lube your head bolts with motor oil per the FSM. A bit under the bolt heads too.
I used ARP studs, the Opel ones, on my build and torqued them to 80 per the ARP directions. I did walk them up incrementally in the pattern. I have numbers 1 through 14 written on my valve cover ledge in nice Sharpie blue. It was too easy to get lost in the pattern.
Geez Ian, I'm really glad I was able to help. I was actually hoping you would say "Yeah, I did that too." At least you weren't posting trying to figure out why your head gasket leaked or why a rod let loose...
Scraping all that FIPG is going to suuuck... When you pull the pan, you might find some of it still not cured. Walk away for a day. It's a LOT easier to remove when it isn't sticky. Stock up on single edge razor blades and beer. Save the beer for when the job is done though.
Glad you remembered the rod caps now too.
It takes a hell of a man to admit he screwed up. :whoops: You have my utmost respect sir!
Jim
blkprj80 said:
Actually it's easier when wet. Just wipe with paper towels or old rags. Then wet a shop towel with some gasoline and wipe the rest off. Scrape with a putty knife and another wipe with gas, and you're ready to re seal.
Gas is the proper solvent to use with silicone products and works great as a primer too.
That's good to know. Thanks Brian.
I've found berryman B12 seems to cut it, even when cured too.
I've found berryman B12 seems to cut it, even when cured too.
