My 84 BJ60, the Nipperwagon. SOA, 35''s, Locked.

[meigsrock]

Wow, you even took the seat off for the picture. Thanks, and thanks for the link.

So it draws in from the top and blows out the front and rear. OK. Can you set it to only blow out the front, or the rear, or is it always blowing both directons?

Any idea (anyone) how many BTU the factory heater is for comparison?

I may put something like this in my pickup too, but smaller size. That heater just takes too long to heat up. I was also thinking of an electric heater so I get instant heat as soon as I turn the truck on.

Thanks so much for the link and ifo.

 

[NQCruiser]

King Spence, what did you use to cut the holes in the dash for the compressor & locker switches? I looked at your early photos and saw you only had 1 hole there originally. I'm looking to put the same style switches in to change tanks & senders on my LR Tank setup.

 

[KingSpence]

Exactly, it pulls from the top and pushes out each side. The coolant comes in and splits off to two cores, both meeting together again before the main outlet. Does that make sense? Basically two cores tied together, blowing front and back. A few screws pops the cover off, I'm sure if you want you can block one of the cores with a piece of metal or something that can withstand the heat if you don't want it blowing a certain direction. I was told factory heaters are usually close to 40,000btu's, but you need to remember how much more air they push. Also, consider that they bring cold winter air in and have to heat it up enough to warm the interior, these aftermarket ones just recirc warm air.

I used a Dremel with a small 1 inch diameter cutting disc to cut the holes in the dash.

 

[fjcruzza]

Dude you are awsome!!! Love the work!!! Keep it up truck looks sick!!!

 

[KingSpence]

First thing's first. Anyone want to buy a Land Cruiser? The sad thing is I'm serious, it's getting put up. At this point I still don't know if I have the emotional willpower to let it go. What do you all thing it's worth? I really don't NEED to sell it, so I'm not giving it away for free by any means.

I've been given the opportunity to buy another Cummins. 2003 5.9L H.O., SLT Laramie, crew cab long box 4x4, leather, 6 speed manual, 190k kms. Originally owned by an old farmer friend of my dad's. It's my dream truck to every option, but I can't even express how much I love my Cruiser. I'm in a dark stage of my life.

Now that that's over with, I've got some more progress. Manual glows. They're beautiful, I've never seen such clean starts in cold weather. How did I hook them up you may ask? Sure I'll tell you. Pull off the kick panel and reveal the Glow Controller (silver box, it's the only thing back there). Unplug the harness from the unit. One of these wires (black iirc) will carry 12v when the key is in the running position, this is the one you want. Cut it from the harness and run a wire from it up to a switch.

Now pop your hood, there is a solenoid/relay on the driver side fender skirt. This is your #1 Glow Relay. It's got two 10awg wires attached with nuts, and a yellow plug wit two 14awg wires. As for the large wires, one will always have 12v, the other won't unless the relay completes the circuit. Unplug it. One of the small wires is ground, other will want to see power. When it does see 12v the relay is switched and completes the circuit putting 12v to your glow plug bus bar. On the backside of the driver side fender there are two square relays, the furthermost one back should be your #2 Glow Relay. Unplug it, you don't need it.

So as of now you have a switch inside that has the current carrying wire from the glow controller harness attached to it, and both relays under the hood unplugged. Run a wire from your switch and tie it into the wire on the relay plug that want's to see power. On my truck it's orange, ground the other wire, it should be black. Use a good thick ground wire and make sure it's a good clean connection. You're done.

This is what you have accomplished. When the key is in the running position your switch has power. When you press that switch you allow 12v to flow through it to the #1 glow plug relay on the fender skirt, which in turn closes and allows current to flow through up to the bus bar, putting 12v to your glow plugs. It's that easy, you get to learn pretty quick how long you need to hold the switch for, I've been doing 10 seconds in the morning in -10C and I see clean quick starts everytime. When it's super cold you can use the switch to heat up the glows to smooth the lumpy idle out.

You can, but SHOULD NOT run factory 6v glow plugs, you could burn them out or even worse blow a tip into your precups. I'm running NGK 10.5v Y147t plugs. Some people run 14v plugs too.

Here's my switch setup, it's a momentary rocker switch. On the once side of my steering wheel I have the compressor and glow switch, on the other side I have the front and rear locker switches. So fresh so clean.

 

[KingSpence]

It's been almost a month now, and I've got just over 1300kms on the truck with the turbo, I love it! It accelerates smooth, and I've gotten a consistent 2-3 extra MPG then before. I've always driven the truck for maximum fuel economy, and I love the fact I can now drive it like a 90 year old, still keep up with the pace of traffic, and get wicked mileage to boot! Fuel is still set at 1.25 turns, EGT's peak at 1200F on the highway when I lay into on a hill. I installed a cone filter on the truck last week for fun, my god did it even make a difference. It drives smoother than ever before, and my goodness does the turbo whistle loud. Everyone stares, it sounds like a 6.0L. I'm curious to see my mileage for the first tank with the filter.

I'm going to try to get a few drive-by videos and driving videos during daylight.

I know, the red looks cheesy, it's all I had in the garage. It's wasn't staying, I need to tie the snorkel in somehow.

So I had an idea the other day on how to make the intake better, less restrictive, but while still integrating the snorkel. With the difference the cone filter made, I don't want to go back to the Toyota unit. A while back I did an oil change on a buddy's Windstar and remember how the intake was oriented, it was a filter inside a big tube. I decided to make a run to the PnP and check to see if it'll work.

Look at this sexy thing. I mocked it up and it should work perfect, or at least close to perfect. I broke the thing open and tore out the MAF, I won't need it and all it's gonna do is restrict air.

The only modification I will have to do is open the end bigger to 3inch to fit into the snorkel hose. I'm going to get a piece of 3in PVC, chop off what I need to and plastic cement it to the end. Other than that, it fit's like it was made for the truck, looks factory, and has very little restriction. Even those little rubber mounting feet can sit right on the fender skirt, so I can build little brackets if I choose to do so.

 

[Spike Strip]

Any idea what year windstar that filter canister came out of ? Looks like the one in my 2000 F150, but mine does not have the flex tubing on it and it is bigger...

 

[KingSpence]

You probably wonder what's going on in this picture...

Yep, that's correct, I removed the rad support. Why? Because it was no longer intact. I always knew it was rusty, but to the degree I underestimated was drastic, it's not even structural. The drive side body mount was no longer connected! This is by far the rustiest piece on the entire truck. I was going to just keep the rad support and swap it during the body swap, but once I inspected how bad the rust was, I decided to do it now.

I found a local parts truck with a mint rad support, so I snagged it. I'm talkin' Southern States minty fresh. I wiped it down and gave it a thick coat of black. I'm exited to see how much a difference actually having a rad support attached to the frame helps the rigidity of the truck.

 

[kling-on]

Wow... It has to help alot ...glad you found it be for it fell out

Sent from outer space via my mind

 

[Shad0wTr0n]

WOW what a thread. Man I miss my '84. I sold it this past summer just after I got married. Then I sold my '02 Subaru WRX. BUT I just bought a 83' BJ42 to build up and I have a turbo from a friends Subaru waiting to be installed as well, hopefully I can stick to it like you have. I'm very impressed with your ideas and work, keep on posting!!!

 

[KingSpence]

I can't even describe how nice this thing drives now. The hood closes, latches, and sits tight; and when I hit bumps every panel ahead of the windshield doesn't move independently anymore. I used to watch my bumper twist to the body when I hit a big bump. I painted and polished everything to make it fancy, why not right? I'm going to paint the top of the entire rad support high build box liner, I just need the paint to dry fully before doing so.

High-build boxlined and painted:

Volvo 740 intercooler mock up while the front end was apart:

 

[Captain Sanuk]

Nice build dude. Mind telling me where you got the sun glasses holder on the 3rd pic? thanks!

I started on the manifold last night, I'm about halfway done. I need to weld the flange on, then mock it up in the truck to decide where the T3 flange is going to get placed. I can't believe how easy this is. The flange came in at $100 at the waterjet.



I'm running Autometer Pyro, water temp, oil pressure, and boost respectively. I paid $75 for the gauge and $25 for the mounting cup. Averaged out, I think I'm $400-$450 all in for gauges. Here's a few fuzzy photos, I'll try to take some better shots when the truck comes in the garage tonight.

 

[KingSpence]

Nice build dude. Mind telling me where you got the sun glasses holder on the 3rd pic? thanks!

It's a bit of a funny story. My dad has had one of these in his BJ60 since 1985 when he bought the truck, when I picked up my HJ in 2009 I had stumbled upon one at my local Canadian Tire. Then when I picked up this BJ a few weeks later I stumbled upon one at the local Princess Auto surplus section. They're old, ugly, and pretty tough to find because they don't look good in any vehicle other than a Land Cruiser. They are made by Bell, same company that makes bike helmets and stuff. Look around, you'll find one somewhere if you own a Land Cruiser.

 

[Captain Sanuk]

Ok, the search is on! You live in Edmonton? thats where my dad grew up. Like the oilers?

 

[shancerlelby]

Wow, crazy it was so rusty at the bottom. Did you happen to replace the front rad support mounts? Only place i have fount body mounts is thru 4crawler and im not sure if i want to go poly

 

[TLC Norway]

Nice job on the rad support.

That old school sunglass holder is awsome. i had one in my old pajero, and forgot to take it with me.
I'm gonna find one again, they fit the theme of a cruiser.

 

[KingSpence]

I guess this is the end. The truck sold, it's been gone for about two weeks. I just did a full read-through of my build, I really miss this thing. There's no doubt I'll be back in the 60 game sometime in the near future.


Here's my new beaut. It's got everything I've ever wanted in one of these trucks, I couldn't be happier to own it. 2003 crew cab long box, 4x4, Laramie, 6 speed. 190kms. My dad does land development, and has been purchasing land from this farmer for the past 15 years. Just recently, my dad bought up the rest of his land, so he had no need for his truck anymore. It's a farm truck, but it's in good shape for what it is, and has been babied mechanically since new. Even little things like plugging it in when it drops below -15C, just to make cold starts easier on everything. Synthetic every 5000kms, new clutch, brakes, front end. CAI and 4inch exhaust, never chipped. It also hasn't towed much either other than a few bails of hay the odd time, mostly diesel out to the combine, and four trips with a 10ft camper. I think I'll keep this one for a while.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

That's to bad, truck was coming together nicely.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Damn, that's s***ty, but you certainly have a nice cummins there. Hopefully you got some good money for the old 60.

 

[74monster]

Hey Spencer I bought your 60 from Andrew in sept. I ended up putting a grizzly locker in the rear. The old ARB had 3 bolts holding in together(one welded in) Just wondering if you still have the other body for sale?