My 84 BJ60, the Nipperwagon. SOA, 35''s, Locked.

[KingSpence]

Thanks. I got the tires to rub, but ever so slightly. I stuffed in in a ditch and it slightly rubs the bottom back corner of the front fenders. It's good now, rub (dent) to fit.

Time to get the turbo build moving. These turbo's have a popular flange, 10psi stock wastegate, and a 2.5in v-band exhaust outlet, so no dealing with rare stupid flanges. I also managed to snag the downpipe, it's got a large flex pipe, and if I don't utilize the downpipe I can always use the exhaust flange to the turbo.

$70.

 

[ForealBoreal]

Kick ass thread bud.
Nice to see some young bucks like myself kicking around on mud.
Cheers!

 

[KingSpence]

I'm still on the hunt for mild steel short radius SCH 10/40 "90's" and "T" bends. I've been without luck, and I don't feel the need to dish out the extra cash for stainless. That would involve me needed a new spool of wire for the Miller as well. I'll keep looking though.

I've decided to run -AN fittings throughout. I've already dealt with rubber and hose clamps when I slapped the t25 on the 4age a few years ago; my god does it leak everywhere. Like I said before, I want to do this right; this truck sees a lot of miles and a lot of bush, I don't need a failure in the middle of nowhere. These parts are not cheap, but I've seen eBay and Chinese -AN fittings before, as well as air line fittings; they crack.

I'm running -4 to the feed, -10 for the drain. I'll be welding a bung on the oil pan for the drain. Some people choose to drain to the vacuum pump drain near the oil filter, but I see restriction in draining through there. Toyota designed that drain for the vac pump, not a turbo as well. Am I correct? The quicker and more efficiently you can get oil in and out of a turbo the better.

On the far left I have the -10 drain that's going the thread to the bung welded to pan. Beside that is the bung that will be welded to the bung. Next over is the drain, and beside that is the feed, pretty self explanatory I hope. Lastly is what will be coming off the block. 1/8 in fitting into the block, from there I can attach my stainless braided line that feeds to oil pressure gauge, and the other fitting is the -4 to the turbo oil feed.

Total came out to $161.49. Not bad when you really think about it, for that amount I got all my fittings, hose, t3 flange, gasket, and billet -AN feed and drain fittings for the turbocharger.

 

[KingSpence]

So I've got a couple updates here, I was sick a few weeks ago so I wrote off the weekend to the Land Cruiser. I've had a 24,000btu heater under the passenger seat for about a year now, and it's worth every penny. I picked it up from Princess Auto for $269. It fits perfectly under the seat, clears all the rails as well; any bigger and there would be issues. This alone will keep the truck warm enough inside to be in a t-shirt, while the factory system recircs. Having it blow forward and backward it keeps everyone's feet toasty.

It came with a 3 speed switch on the side, I had it hard wired to a switch in the dash, I took the time to remove the switch from the unit and install it in the dash. Super handy now.

I also moved my ARB swtiches from the shifter and into the dash. The compressor switch is in the other side. I gave the shifter a coat of Tremclad to make it look pretty again.

I've always found the factory prop rod too short, esspetially when working near the back of the engine do things as simple as changing the oil. I cut the prop rod and welded in a 7 inch section to extend it. The hood opens to it's max travel now, and I have TONS more light in the engine bay as well.

Jzilla, here are the photos you were looking for. He was wondering how the rear bumper was mounted and braced. Basically there is a piece of 1/4 C-channel across the framerails, from there I've got what looks to be 1/4 box tube from the bumper to the C-channel. The rear upper shock mount tube has also been replaced with a 2in solid steel bar.

 

[jzilla]

Thanks! What is the benefit to removing the stock rear crossmember? Other than being rusty?

 

[KingSpence]

Thanks! What is the benefit to removing the stock rear crossmember? Other than being rusty?

Because solid bar is stronger haha. I don't really know why it got replaced, I also know that I have long travel rear shocks in place of the factory units.

 

[jzilla]

I meant the rear frame support, nice idea on the hood support btw

 

[KingSpence]

I started on the manifold last night, I'm about halfway done. I need to weld the flange on, then mock it up in the truck to decide where the T3 flange is going to get placed. I can't believe how easy this is. The flange came in at $100 at the waterjet.

I'm running Autometer Pyro, water temp, oil pressure, and boost respectively. I paid $75 for the gauge and $25 for the mounting cup. Averaged out, I think I'm $400-$450 all in for gauges. Here's a few fuzzy photos, I'll try to take some better shots when the truck comes in the garage tonight.

 

[KingSpence]

I made tons of progress last night. Started off by pulling the pan. A quick inspection of the bottom end gave me the go-ahead to start tearing into everything else. I'm using 2x2 1/8in box steel. I started off by cutting the four holes for the exhaust ports using a 1.75in hole saw. I notched my ends at a 45 degree angle. From there I tacked on the flange and test fitted it on the engine. Like I said before, I'll make my final decision on where the turbo flange will sit once the manifold is on the truck, and my turbo elbow is installed.

Started things off by assuring myself how good a turbo looks under the hood.

Manifold progress:

This is where I called it a night. I fiddled around with the downpipe for over an hour. These turbo's have a factory 2.5in flex pipe on the back of the turbo, with that on there I'll be in the firewall before the elbow will fit. I did some shopping today, I think I found a solution.

This is the most straightforward turbo setup I have ever done. Maybe it's because it's a truck and not a car, maybe because I can sit on my butt on the floor while I reach up and undo all the oil pan bolts with ease.

 

[KingSpence]

Hot damn thats a good lookin manifold.

Thanks dood!


Well, the manifold is done and on the truck, the waterlines have been re-routed, and the oil pan is finished and back on the truck. Progress is coming along nicely. I must say though, this has become more expensive than I originally thought; but I'm willing to pay for a reliable setup. I picked up a Nikon D60 as well, so from here on in expect some high quality photography.

Original positioning of the hoses. I rotated the top piece to angle toward the firewall, and I ran my hose between the firewall and heater control. As for the lower peice, I shopped it off at the bottom of the "U". I'll run both hoses from there up tying into the original piping in front of the alternator. Pictures will make more sense once it's done I know.

After the modifying:

Turbo goodness:

I still need to rotate the snail to level.

Drain fitted to the pan:

 

[kling-on]

Very nice I've been thinking of doing the same keep the pics coming

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Top notch man, keep it up.

 

[KingSpence]

Hitting a steep hill at 110km/h and loading it up as much as possible I can't get over 950F, and the hill was steep enough I couldn't keep it in 5th and had to drop to 4th. It was about an 800m hill coming up from the river, I was doing 80km/h at the top. I'm going to give the fuel screw another 1/4 turn, making the overall adjustment one full turn. I would like to see about 1050-1100 at least on a hill like that, I think 950F is a little lean. I leave a slight puff of greyish black off lights, and that's it. I also adjusted my valves last night, a few were out of spec, but overall not too bad. I feel no real performance gain, but it did take away the slight ticking from the top end I was hearing. It's a super easy 20 min job.

I adjusted the fuel again today, 1.25 overall turns. I think it's pretty much perfect. In the city the truck has no problem at all accelerating up a very steep hill about 500 feet long, I was doing about 45km/h at the bottom in third, and almost 60km/h at the top. I havent taken it on the highway yet, I think my rear end is going to blow up the next time I do. I pulled the plug today, the amount of metal on the drain plug is the same height as the threads on the plug itself. It's never good when you can wave a magnet over your diff oil and instantly see it turn silver as all the metal rises to the surface. I filled it with 85w140 and it quieted it down a bit, 11 teeth on the r&p are chipped, 27 are cracked. pftshh..

Downpipe. 2.5inch that meges into a 3inch on the downpipe:

This is what I used for my boost gauge. I got the stuff at my local Princess Auto, cost me about $15 all in. 1/8npt threads directly to an Autometer.

And finally, complete. I know it's dirty and ugly, but it works.

 

[kling-on]

Very nice I like it...

Sent from outer space via my mind

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Brilliant man, good work.

I think it's about time you taught yourself to set up gears because whoever you're having do it is obviously incapable of doing so.

 

[TLC Norway]

Nice setup!

 

[KingSpence]

Well she's proven reliable with a turbo for the past week and a half, it's time to step it up; pizza deliveries. Ohhhh yea!

 

[meigsrock]

Your truck is amazing. you do some great work.

I would like to know more about the heater you put under your seat. Is it electric or does it work off of the engine coolant like the stock heater?

If it works as good as you say, better than the stock heater I would like to get one. It is cold here in Alaska too.

I tried searching the company you bought it from but could not find it. Could you tell me the heater brand, or part # to help me find one for sale.

Thanks

 

[klinetime574]

Very nice! I missed the turbo buildup but it looks sweet as hell!

Does that D60 take video?

 

[KingSpence]

That's the only downside to the D60, no video. I can still use my iPhone I guess.

It's an 18,500btu auxiliary heater, and it runs off coolant. Like I said before, it will put off enough heat to allow you to be in a t-shirt inside the truck in -25C. It's a recirc so you need to keep your factory blower on low to circulate air, or crack the window. Here is an ad to the heater, and listed are dimensions so you can find something that might work locally.

18,500 BTU 12V Auxiliary Heater | Princess Auto