My 2H is trashed

[vwluv10338]

I understand the idea but importing a parts vehicle sounds easy on paper. I don't have a tow rig and an 87 can't be imported yet. I PM the member here that has one in Seattle. We will see.

I see Dan, one of our associate club members is parting some of his rigs in Kamloops. He might have a 2H.

Just checked Used Victoria for you too and found two HJ60 and the seller is asking $6K for them both. 1987 Toyota landcruiser Sooke, Victoria Not sure if you have room; but with older vehicles, it sure is nice to have a parts rig, especially if the vehicle was never sold in your country.

If you are searching don't just stick with Craigslist. Try some of the other classified sites and focus on searching major Canadian cities. Also, try different search terms: 2H, HJ60, HJ61, 12HT, Land Cruiser, LandCruiser, Landcruzer, etc. Many people selling their old Land Cruisers in Canada don't have a clue on what they are selling and often misspell the key words themselves. Take the used Victoria ad as an example. Land Cruiser was spelled as Landcruiser. No where did it say HJ60 or 2H. But it did clearly say "1987 Toyota landcruiser" and "six cylender diesel", so you know they are HJ60s with 2H engines.

 

[canucksafari]

It's funny. The engine in my truck came from cruiserparts.net with a supposedly 167k km. It was purchased with a new H55 for $6500. It smoked since the first time it was installed. I guess the first owner of this truck that did the swap was the first to get screwed.

I am looking into donor vehicles. I have no way to tow them. I thought about the one in Toronto but again I'm not sure how that would work at the border since it's an 87 and again can't tow it.

The first guy either was clueless or messed it up himself. Most businesses selling used parts will give a basic warranty - usually just enough for the purchaser to ensure they got the functioning part as claimed by the business. IMO, he likely knew he had a bad motor and tried to flog it on someone who didn't really know much about diesel Land Cruisers. Many of us have been there, so there is no sense in feeling too bad about it. Chalk it up to a bit of an expensive lesson and move on. As I see it, you have a few choices that all have costs:
1) rebuild the engine you have
2) install a used 2H or 12HT
3) sell your HJ60 as is
4) part-out your HJ60

A lot of people here in the diesel section have imported and exported parts vehicles and I am sure can give you some pointers. It isn't that hard. If you use a broker it is quite easy. Also, U-haul is an option to tow back vehicles by renting their 1 ton truck and a car trailer. There are also shipping companies that will haul trucks for a decent price too. You just need to do some research.

 

[canucksafari]

and an 87 can't be imported yet.

Who told you that? You got to do some more research. Parts/parts vehicles can always be imported. Also, for Canadian market vehicles, there is no age restriction. The 25 rule US age restriction is only on vehicles that were not sold in the Canadian market, such as the HJ61, BJ73s, HJ81s, etc., but were imported under Canada's 15 year rule.

 

[vwluv10338]

Who told you that? You got to do some more research. Parts/parts vehicles can always be imported. Also, for Canadian market vehicles, there is no age restriction. The 25 rule US age restriction is only on vehicles that were not sold in the Canadian market, such as the HJ61, BJ73s, HJ81s, etc., but were imported under Canada's 15 year rule.

I have read 25 years on this site over and over.... anyway... I digress. After thinking about it I don't think I am up for getting a truck from Canada. When I picked up this truck I had to take a day off work and the more I do that its eating into my rebuild budget.

On another note. I think I'm also due for an injector rebuild. What does the collective think. The one on the right is out of cycl#1 (the one with problems)

 

[RufusTheDufus]

I think that injector is the source of your problems. When I saw the discoloration on the cylinder block near the #1 cylinder precup area it made me think that cylinder is getting fuel at the wrong time. That injector looks like it won't close and could be dribbling fuel out when it's not supposed to. That can lead to various cylinder bore issues. Are those even the same parts?

 

[vwluv10338]

I think that injector is the source of your problems. When I saw the discoloration on the cylinder block near the #1 cylinder precup area it made me think that cylinder is getting fuel at the wrong time. That injector looks like it won't close and could be dribbling fuel out when it's not supposed to. That can lead to various cylinder bore issues. Are those even the same parts?

They are the same. The one injector has the washer stuck on it. I think you may be right on the injector issue. I ran diesel purge straight into my pump and did two seafoam treatments with no change before I did my compression test.

How is this for a theory:
Injector #1 needs a rebuild and fires incorrectly
This causes misfires which leads to excessive carbon on pistons.
This carbon sticks the rings and eventually leads to low compression.

I started pulling the head down so I can send it to get Magnafluxed. That may make or break this rebuild. After verification of the head being good then I will continue on with the rebuild.

 

[vwluv10338]

This makes me sad:

Landcruiser Engine Motor RECO 4.0 2H Diesel (eBay item 220758480243 end time 21-Apr-11 17:22:21 AEST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats

Too bad its an exchange. I cant imagine it would be worth it two way shipping.

 

[84BJCruiser]

2H

.....

 

[VTCDN]

Ridge-Reamer , I owe you an ~~!
You must remember , you show us a Nozzle that is the problem OR the end result.
Since the Nozzle can be checked / Pressure tested / spray pattern , pintle release , ETC. then that IS the way to to test all, then you can say , the ring broke because of ?

Do the testing in order , and methodical, once you ""Tear It Apart "" you can no longer run simple tests.These test work for thousands of real MASTER Tech's , simple , in order , methodical, and recorded on a time line.

were not making a new space ship , or flux capacitor.

Or just guessing and getting a larger dart board is only more $ to the yodas.


after you get real nozzle checking specs, then is all internet magic .

VT

 

[vwluv10338]

Real mast tech, hey I resemble that remark. I do agree with you and that was what I was trying to say in the other thread. Once it's apart you can't run more tests. I didn't need more tests, I knew my problem was rings. As for the cause, well that's another story. Either way I'm going to do the injectors. I will admit I have zero diesel experience. We don't see many/ any here at Lexus. We also don't do much engine work. Just shortblocks. The heads come bare so you have to build them but we never get into a bottom end.

Ridge-Reamer , I owe you an ~~!
You must remember , you show us a Nozzle that is the problem OR the end result.
Since the Nozzle can be checked / Pressure tested / spray pattern , pintle release , ETC. then that IS the way to to test all, then you can say , the ring broke because of ?

Do the testing in order , and methodical, once you ""Tear It Apart "" you can no longer run simple tests.These test work for thousands of real MASTER Tech's , simple , in order , methodical, and recorded on a time line.

were not making a new space ship , or flux capacitor.

Or just guessing and getting a larger dart board is only more $ to the yodas.


after you get real nozzle checking specs, then is all internet magic .

VT

 

[canucksafari]

You must remember , you show us a Nozzle that is the problem OR the end result.
Since the Nozzle can be checked / Pressure tested / spray pattern , pintle release , ETC. then that IS the way to to test all, then you can say , the ring broke because of ?

When you tear it apart, if the nozzle initiated the problem, the breaking pressure would be way out and/or you would see cylinder glazing. The fact that the spray pattern is off now or the nozzle is dribbling, will not tell you if it was the cause as VTCDN says.

 

[derelict]

They are the same part he just has the copper washer on one and it is off the injector body on the other. Yours look like mine did except I had an additional divot inside the worn dish. Its called cold erosion and they all do it over time. Definitely need a rebuild. They should be completely flat.

 

[vwluv10338]

They are the same part he just has the copper washer on one and it is off the injector body on the other. Yours look like mine did except I had an additional divot inside the worn dish. Its called cold erosion and they all do it over time. Definitely need a rebuild. They should be completely flat.

I called the injection shop near my house and got a quote. I am going to hopefully drop them off this week. I will tag #1 injector as a problem so I get all the specs for it.

 

[canucksafari]

They can give you the specs for all of them. Most FI shops will check the spray pattern and breaking pressure before rebuilding them. Its not hard or too time consuming to do.

 

[VTCDN]

When you tear it apart, if the nozzle initiated the problem, the breaking pressure would be way out and/or you would see cylinder glazing. The fact that the spray pattern is off now or the nozzle is dribbling, will not tell you if it was the cause as VTCDN says.

I never said that a nozzle would break a ring.

Hydrolocked? could.

Either way , I just lost 1.5 hrs typing a reply , cuz i hit the wrong button, CRAP !!


Mr Eric as a Lexus Master Tech , now needs to figure out how a ring got broken.

I'm Glad my Name is is not hanging from the rafters ..
Mine is a Small book , with stickies , going for window wiper master tech.
A colleague of mine is a trainer for Yota , Name is Jason. Excellent Master Tech Trainer, you might of met him , is on the eastern side twice a year.

VT

 

[vwluv10338]

I never said that a nozzle would break a ring.

Hydrolocked? could.

Either way , I just lost 1.5 hrs typing a reply , cuz i hit the wrong button, **** !!


Mr Eric as a Lexus Master Tech , now needs to figure out how a ring got broken.

I'm Glad my Name is is not hanging from the rafters ..
Mine is a Small book , with stickies , going for window wiper master tech.
A colleague of mine is a trainer for Yota , Name is Jason. Excellent Master Tech Trainer, you might of met him , is on the eastern side twice a year.

VT

I dont think the ring was broken. I think I broke it trying to get it out without reaming the ridge. I think the compression issue was from it being full of carbon and the ring land being out of spec.
As far as your buddy, I'm not sure if I have met him. I think they separate our training from Toyota. My training is done in Parsippany NJ and I think its Lexus only. I did recently go to a local traning class at a Toyota building and man, after the caitered lunch they didnt have anyting for dessert. That wouldnt fly at the Lexus training camp

 

[vwluv10338]

Well I started the head teardown. The first two pics are of cyl 1 with the liner problem.

All the valve specs seem to be ok with good specs for guide oil clearances. However, one valve on #4 looks trashed. Here is a pic and then a pic of #2 to compare.

A coworker has a valve grinding machine and he said he will take my valves home this weekend and grind them. Then he will bring in his seat cutting tool so I can trim up the seats.

I also brought home a straight edge. I was well within spec with .004 and the limit being .008 but should I still get it decked while it is at the machine shop? I thought on here I read somewhere to get it decked with the precups installed but there is nothing in the FSM about decking at all.

 

[VTCDN]

NO DESERT !!

Bargain Basement

I haven't DL the 2H FSM, I have a 3B & using that manual , It shows the pre-cups to have a protrusion. You`re specs of .004-.008 are in my eyes , not worth the decking , just wet polish it back to sparkling kleen. You could be opening a pre-cup issue over a second retorque and a few heat cycles. Nu-Way is my seat cutters / cleaners.

So are the piston ring lands pounded out ? seeing the Ring you posted , it had carbon on the face of the ring, and the times I've seen that is when rings run broken.As with the having to clean up the Non-ring travel area above the piston top land to remove the pistons, that ball de-glazier on just that area couldn't remove and knock the ridge out ?

On a quick patch , if that piston had somewhat decent lands , you could re-ring / bearing it / new steel headgasket (measure head bolts length , see if any were necked ) and give it a Go.

If not you`re into pistons and liners PLUS , $$ I saw a 1988 BJ up here with 220,000 Kms go for 1800.00 for the truck , auto I think .

VT

 

[vwluv10338]

NO DESERT !!

Bargain Basement

I haven't DL the 2H FSM, I have a 3B & using that manual , It shows the pre-cups to have a protrusion. You`re specs of .004-.008 are in my eyes , not worth the decking , just wet polish it back to sparkling kleen. You could be opening a pre-cup issue over a second retorque and a few heat cycles. Nu-Way is my seat cutters / cleaners.

Its easier to post and edit , so i don't loose the type and it's larger for old eyes,Adding as i type

My spec was .004 at the most and that was on a diagional measurement. The max is .008.

All precups are out now. My FSM just says hammer new ones in

EDIT: you are right. I found it 0.00" to .0039" protrusion

 

[VTCDN]

Yes there using Protrusion and non-compressible headgasket / fire-ring for holding the precups firm.
It's when they are relaxed either heat or contraction they move and pound the headgasket / crack and drop in 3B's , as what I have noticed here.

So whats the flavour of the repair ? patch and use whats there plus a few gaskets and bits , wait for a better 2H OR , go nutZ on liners and the Full Meal Super-Sized Deal?

They are forgiving , and there's no mis-fire cat killing recurring codes (let alone one light for 1000 things)


VT

I'll DL the 2H Bible