- Thread starter
- #21
Yeah forgot to mention that, there is a fuse holder with a 3 amp fuse. Thanks though.
Builds My 1997 LX450 progress thread
- Thread starter 92LXAZ
- Start date
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Great start to a build thread! What made you go with the 2.5 inch lift compared to 3 or 4 inches? Plans for your rig (overlanding, trails, etc)?
BTW I love that Kaymar bumper, didn't know they had a Deluxe version of it
BTW I love that Kaymar bumper, didn't know they had a Deluxe version of it
- Thread starter
- #23
Thank you! The lift was by accident sort of. I had the Ironman 2" on order but it is on back order until mid November (I had ordered it a few weeks ago). I just couldn't wait that long so I got a decent deal on the TJM and figured why not. Glad I did, I really like it. Plan is some local trails and would like to get to Moab for a family vaca sometime in the future, camping here and there once I get the basic necessities collected.
The Kaymar is sweet and thank you. The PO had it on already and was quite glad.
The Kaymar is sweet and thank you. The PO had it on already and was quite glad.
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- #24
A couple more items off the list. Cree 7W reverse bulbs. I am amazed, doesn't take much to do so, but seeing these in person...pics don't do them justice.
Oh and also picked up the correct size spare, can't quite tell in the pic, $20 mounted.
Oh and also picked up the correct size spare, can't quite tell in the pic, $20 mounted.
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- Thread starter
- #26
Ha yeah it is 
, I knew someone would say something 
. Obviously haven't taken the time, hopefully today.
, I knew someone would say something . Obviously haven't taken the time, hopefully today.
- Thread starter
- #27
Adding to thread...
A few little updates. Finally removed running boards (be looking for front mud flaps soon). What a difference, love it. My little guy thinks it's "cool" climbing in and out.
Reverse LEDs and full size spare.
A few little updates. Finally removed running boards (be looking for front mud flaps soon). What a difference, love it. My little guy thinks it's "cool" climbing in and out.
Reverse LEDs and full size spare.
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Great looking rig. Love the 315's on stock height.
I got 285/75R16 Nitto Terra Grappler ATs on my LC yesterday. I like the look of the tires on the Cruiser. Highway noise is barely above regular street tires, if louder at all. Still waiting to try them on some Forest Service roads in the N. Ga. mountains.
- Thread starter
- #30
Finally get to add something to my build thread. Lack of funds means unable to do anything so when my alternator started going it forced me to make an upgrade happen.
150 amp from a 07 Sequioa, Photoman bracket/pulley kit, mil spec terminals, went with 2 ga wire for B post power and new ground to frame, also for main power. Blue Sea single post fuse holder with 175 amp fuse.
All went smoothly with the help of my dad (still learning from him at 41). Great instructions from Bill's kit. Feels good to get something done on the rig after so long.
A little difficult working with the larger gauge wire and not exactly how I wanted it but is decent and will work. A heck of a lot cleaner than what the PO had done. Don't worry, put the battery hold down on after this pic.
150 amp from a 07 Sequioa, Photoman bracket/pulley kit, mil spec terminals, went with 2 ga wire for B post power and new ground to frame, also for main power. Blue Sea single post fuse holder with 175 amp fuse.
All went smoothly with the help of my dad (still learning from him at 41). Great instructions from Bill's kit. Feels good to get something done on the rig after so long.
A little difficult working with the larger gauge wire and not exactly how I wanted it but is decent and will work. A heck of a lot cleaner than what the PO had done. Don't worry, put the battery hold down on after this pic.
- Thread starter
- #31
Just adding to my build thread...installed Fox 2.0 Performance shocks, 2" Man-A-Free drop brackets, front sway bar drop brackets, and rear drop links. Rides amazing now compared to what it was.
Wow looks awesome! How do those fox ride on the road? Firm? How about off road? Sure had me tempted to upgrade when I saw them.
Btw Might want to get this for your blue tooth scanner.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GGLVXG2/?tag=ihco-20
With that I was able to close the fuse door, barely but worked. Without it you might hit your knee on the scanner.
Btw Might want to get this for your blue tooth scanner.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GGLVXG2/?tag=ihco-20
With that I was able to close the fuse door, barely but worked. Without it you might hit your knee on the scanner.
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- #33
Thanks Qball. They ride great on road. No offroad yet. I don't think they are firm but I have limited experience plus coming off shocks that were shot. Definitely no jarring, absorbs the hits nicely. Thanks for the link on that scanner extender. I actually fit mine behind the door, just remove a couple of screws on the OBDII port and it can be moved around and it fits, a little snug but works.
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- #34
Baby steps. Added Fiamm AM80 horns from a foxbody Mustang. I have owned several and I liked the horn. Picked them up for $20 from a stang parts guy here. Spades matched so plug and play. May upgrade to Caddy 4 horn setup some day but for the money these are great.
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- #35
More small progress...finally got the speakers done. Went with what many do and got the great deal on Amazon for the TS-G1644R. Did it the simple way as I don't mind the aftermarket grills and used the Pioneer hardware attaching to the door panel. Rears took a little more work. Tin snipped around the bent back to make hole larger and trimmed door panel slightly. Also picked up a couple Arkon mounts from Amazon in prep for our road trip this summer. I may work on the placement of the DS one. We'll see if iPad holder is stable enough, doesn't have to be perfect, just a more handy spot to keep it rather than on a lap or side pocket even if not in use. Currently working on an attic rack, second battery setup, and lift gate light.
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- #36
Busy busy busy...was able to get my attic rack done as well as install a rear cargo light. No new revelations on either project, just followed good old Mudders who've already done it. Picked up the gridwall for $10 at a thrift store, very happy I found one in black, went with a piece of 90 deg aluminum and little u-bolts for the brackets. Painted it black obviously. Pics are after test fit. Probably $30 into it after all said and done.
Still have to round the corners of the brackets. I could have gone with a shorter piece for the brackets but I originally was going to do a top mount. My gridwall was too long and I didn't want to cut that nor did I want to cut the brackets again.
I found some rubber grommets to act as spacers to keep the brackets off of the headliner instead of washers. Thought it may add some sort of shock absorption, whether needed or not I thought it was a good idea.
Also still have to tighten all down.
Still have to round the corners of the brackets. I could have gone with a shorter piece for the brackets but I originally was going to do a top mount. My gridwall was too long and I didn't want to cut that nor did I want to cut the brackets again.
I found some rubber grommets to act as spacers to keep the brackets off of the headliner instead of washers. Thought it may add some sort of shock absorption, whether needed or not I thought it was a good idea.
Also still have to tighten all down.
- Thread starter
- #37
The cargo light took me forever for some reason. Wiring through that upper part of the hatch was a B. Also in my excitement to get started I forgot to disconnect the battery, not smart. I did blow the fuse somehow too. Won't forget that again, ever. It's not the tightest against the plastic. I'm wondering if some of the dome light differ as I didn't see anyone else have to enlarge the holes to accommodate for the lights screw holes. If I would have installed normally it wouldn't have been flush. Because of this I couldn't just screw it down against the plastic. I ended up taking some strips of aluminum to 'connect' the holes so it would hold the light in place. Of course after the fact I thought I could/should have shaved them down. May go back and do it.
This is what I'm talking about with the lights screw tab, those would have just sat on top of the plastic. Am I stupid, I do miss obvious things sometimes and it was about 107 in my garage.
Here are the enlarged holes. Ran the strips of aluminum between those on the back side the long way. I didn't have anything more rigid, it worked decent but could be better. May try something else if time permits.
Painted the tan light with the Rustoleum textured Bronze #7226 and am very happy with the match. I still need to get an LED in there but it is done. Works in door mode but not in 'On' position. Time to read more MUD.
This is what I'm talking about with the lights screw tab, those would have just sat on top of the plastic. Am I stupid, I do miss obvious things sometimes and it was about 107 in my garage.
Here are the enlarged holes. Ran the strips of aluminum between those on the back side the long way. I didn't have anything more rigid, it worked decent but could be better. May try something else if time permits.
Painted the tan light with the Rustoleum textured Bronze #7226 and am very happy with the match. I still need to get an LED in there but it is done. Works in door mode but not in 'On' position. Time to read more MUD.
Nice mods. I would really like to have a light there.
Question about the front drop brackets, newb here so I might have the wrong term but the photo just above the photo of the fox shocks when they aren't in the truck. Is there a reason its so many parts could you buy just one long linkage instead of the two inch addition or is this way a cost saver?
- Thread starter
- #40
Those are the sway bar drop brackets, I don't know of any other way to do it. It's only two parts, one for each side. They just go in between where the factory bar meets. Sorry if that doesn't help.
